I think rust can be more or less scary depending on where you are, here you can go from a paint bubble to being able to put your hand through the side of the bed with little effort in about 3 years.
The rear bumper I had was horrible so I got a new one, I have no idea what the new one is from but I made it fit. The mounts on the new bumper were a mile off so I made a mount for it.
Felt like my mini truck days were calling me back
The new mount wasn’t rocket science, but the new bumper so...
Yeah east side of mountains, it’s cold here. After glow makes everything perfect, now mind you it has never idled rougher than a new gas V8 so I am being very picky here.
I will try manually after glowing that could be the solution. I have 8 motorcraft ZD29s installed that tested good just 3 weeks ago so I doubt that’s it and again it’s not terrible it’s just never been anything but perfectly smooth.
Today she idled a little rough, it was a 16 degree F cold start no block heat but I’m not used to that. Normally as low as 10 degrees she fires right off and idles smooth but today was the exception, rough idle and hazing until warm which I guess is “normal” but I’m not used to that.
It costs about 10-15k US to touch lightly modded IDIT numbers with the 6.5. I’ve watched relatives do it, mind you all of that just to nuke your 4L80E. I would rather tow with my NA IDI because I know it’s not going to overheat and split in half.
A properly setup optimizer with about 10k in parts competes very nicely with a tidi in a straight line unloaded. The opti heats up too fast for any towing in my experience.
Is it flashing in and out of OD or just the light? Is your shifter loose? If the shift tube wears it eats the harness for the button and it will short and WHAM KLUNK in and out of overdrive, but if your not on the highway it just shows up as a light.
To check resistance you connect a test lead to negative post on battery and the other voltmeter lead to the frame ground you are checking and read the ohmes.
When I got my 10 25 it had a loose pinion nut, the axle nut was off allowing 2 inches of back and forth on the drum, the cover had been smashed into the gears with a rock or something until the gear clearenced the cover by eating it, it was lubricated with only metal shavings and water, and it...
Just keep welding new steel and throw good material after bad eventually you get somewhere or it just gets heavy (idk if you can do emojis on this thing but that was a laughing face)
My 6.9 with 2wd a 4 speed and studded tires is really killing it in the snow. I wouldn’t mind having a working front diff for when it gets deep though…….
So interestingly enough the way everyone routes the lines actually qualifies as original design as it is simply “late original design” according to Justin.
Now that I think about it the nut near the yoke on my 10.25 was loose too, but so was absolutely everything else on the whole entire truck so I assumed it was do to the trucks previous life as a skydiver not the axles fault.
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