I’m going to try and test a theory I have later. I’m wondering if the fuel selector valve is shot and the return port is stuck closed. I made all new stainless lines with 6AN whips to the tank, fsv, and fuel filters/pump so I know they’re not clogged, tanks and sending units are new too. This...
This is fresh in my head Goat, yes it’s just the two bolts at the top. I would definitely do that to get the top bolt on the starter. Previously I had gotten that bolt with a crows foot wrench.
Definitely recommend the power master 9050 starter if your going to replace. That thing spins nice!
Update on the doomsday motor. Got new engine mounts and flywheel bolts (from Russ). Engine is back in the truck and the ZF5 is back in too (that was a chore to get in! Almost kicked my butt)
Was hoping to fire it up today but I ran out of time and ran into some problems. Putting the drive shaft...
Yup, I’ve learned this lesson before. Tried it a few times and the bolts always have a little wiggle room after your done. The tap takes too much material off
The crank threads are clean, I can thread a bolt in easily by hand. I will say the machine shop did an excellent job cleaning all the threads on this engine.
Anything I didn’t give to the machine shop, I cleaned all the threads on those myself. 90% of this job has been cleaning. I can’t tell...
Yeah unfortunately it’s not tipping back some. It will keep going back unless I support it. I thought it was going to fall back out of the truck.
I’ll try getting some new motor mounts and see if that makes a difference. No rush at this point anyway. Kind of a wasted day working on this thing...
Yeah I figure I’ll wait. I decided to put the motor in anyway while I wait for the bolts to come.
I dropped the engine in without the trans and tightened down the motor mounts, but when I let the engine hoist down the engine falls backwards.
Is that normal for this? Or is this a motor mount...
So finally I have a day free to get this motor back in the truck, went to go install the flywheel (SMF) and I’m missing all the bolts except for 1.
I measured these bolts to be 3/8”-16 x 2.125” and markings are grade 8.
What say you oil burners? Grab some 3/8” - 16 x 2” bolts from tractor...
Decided I’d try to mock up the intercooler piping out of the truck. Ended up hoisting the front clip level with the engine and getting some measurements.
Glad I did, because what I had in mind wasn’t going to work.
Also, look how tight the clearance is with this R&D stage one drop in turbo...
Decided I’d try to mock some stuff up for the Intercooler pipes out of the truck. Ended up hoisting the front clip up and matching it with the engine stand, glad I did, because what I had in mind wasn’t going to work.
I didn’t realize how tight it was around this R&D stage one drop in turbo...
Update 2 for tonight, the exhaust studs I got for the manifolds don’t work for the passenger side manifold.
The hex on them sticks out too much and prevents you from getting a tight seal between the manifold and up-pipe.
I will have to order some 7/16”-14 bolts from McMaster instead
New lines came in off Amazon, these ones actually worked lol unlike the other set I bought which the fittings didn’t work.
Here’s the link
Fuel Injection Lines Set of 8 Compatible with 1983-1994 Ford F150 F250 F350 6.9L 7.3L IDI Diesel Fuel Injector Hard Lines https://a.co/d/dSiim1P
Honestly...
Word of advice fellas if you’re going to use R&D fuel rails.
Don’t even think about installing them with the injectors already in the head. Seat the injectors into the rails and secure them in there with an expired nut and a washer. Grease the orings with some silicon grease. Then insert the...
the motor mount seemed super close to that oil cooler port though, wasn’t sure if I’d be able to plumb into it in frame.
I’ll just hit the starter with the GPs out and FSS disconnected and make sure I get oil pressure before I fire it up at this point. Got a mechanical auto meter oil pressure...
Good deal, I’ll take it off before I drop it in. That’s why I come here anyway, you guys have done this before so you can save me some headaches.
Looks like my motor isn’t going in tomorrow anyway. I’m just finding out now the new injector lines I got off Amazon don’t work. The fittings are...
I was wondering about that, I remember taking it off to get it out. But in this case my transmission is out of the truck. I wonder if that helps me getting it back in with the oil filter on the engine.
Primed the oil with this transfer pump I picked up from Hebrew freight. It said it was rated for ‘light oils’. I don’t think they meant 15W-40 but it did fine except for blowing a 25 amp fuse
Took 10 quarts till I got oil out of every pushrod and turbo line. I injected it at that 1/2” pipe...
Yup guys… checking back in to confirm that I’m actually retarded. Water pump pulley was installed backwards. It really seemed more intuitive to put it on the other way lol
Scratching my head here… are the crank pulley and water pump supposed to line up? They’re a bit staggered here and I don’t remember what it was like coming off.
Dampener is fully seated. I measured 0.200” off of the oil pan so I don’t think I should be backing that off any.
The water pump is a...
Ahhh okay. I was under the impression that the copper was necessary to protect the rockers. If it doesn’t matter I don’t mind reusing the old. I don’t even know if these pushrods are stock. For all I know I’m like the 7th owner
Heads are torqued. Time for a beer. I only went to 150 ft lbs because that’s the highest my torque wrench goes .
I’m afraid this is as far as I go for now. Decided I want new pushrods now. I took a look and I have no copper left on the tips of any of them. Looks like it’s just a copper coating...
Lol thanks for talking me off the ledge. I was ready to pull everything apart and clean it again.
Yeah I guess this stuff is supposed to be more tacky and that’s why people seem to like it. Doesn’t harden and get brittle like normal RTV.
Also doesn’t smell like vinegar and get you high
What’s everyone’s experience with this TA-31 RTV. Stuff is still kinda tacky even after 24 hrs… Seems like it hasn’t fully cured. Not sure if that’s normal for this product, definitely not like the permatex RTV I’m used to.
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