I’ve actually been nosing around looking at other suspensions for the front. My pavement princess needs 4wd to rescue herself out of wet grass not to hook to a weight transfer sled.
Best bet if you don’t want the height is to sweet talk someone out west into sending you those bits. I ended up using the ones off my parts truck or I’d hook you up. I personally have been scheming ways to loose some height on mine. It looks good but I’m too fat and old to jump in like I once did.
Curious. I too found a spot of coolant on the floor the other day and started thinking heater core. I can’t find a wet spot anywhere up around the heater box though. I have dye in my system so I planned on getting the uh light out eventually.
Amazon or eBay has all this stuff. You can get higher temperature loom that is made from a different plastic. It typically has a marking on it. I did wrap in the adhesive free tape. It’s thinner than electrical tap but does a very clean job. A loop of electrical tape at either end and at...
If you want to stop somewhere along our route, we haven’t talked much about it but I’m synced up with @tjsea ‘s schedule so we were thinking of convoying. I think we are going to cannonball it though. I’m guessing I’ll probably link up with him near his place. Not sure what my route will be...
Yes. You need to change the brake pedal or relocate the pin.
I can’t remember which pedal is which in this picture but there’s 3/4” difference in the pin height. It could cause geometry issues if you don’t.
Gotcha. I’m not 100% sure how you would check calibration besides putting it side by side with a known calibrated sensor. For temp the easy way is to do ice and boiling water. That’s somewhat reasonable for a water temp sender but for an egt thermocouple, not so much. The thing about...
This. ^^. The gauge is probably giving you a reading based on a calibration curve. Typically you adjust that curve to be most accurate in the critical range. +\- 50 degrees at 200 on the pyro is really of no consequence. Preferably you want it within a few degrees in the 800-1100 degree range...
That should be sufficient. If you crank more than that at a time you’ll burn up the starter.
Seriously though. If you’ve been at this a while there may be a problem with the pump. While cranking you should get nice spurts out of the schrader valve. Don’t open it if you aren’t cranking. That’s...
Well, it’s possible the head seized and broke the shaft. I don’t know if there’s a way to check that without pulling the pump.
If you are getting good solid fuel out of the schrader valve while cranking, but getting no smoke at all out the tail pipe there is a problem somewhere. How much crank...
I was told at one point that powering the cold advance would help bleed the pump housing. If you’re cold advance high idle switch isn’t working that could help. I don’t know if that’s really what the problem is.... likely not but if you’ve got no smoke, you are not close to running.
I had called a week or so ago last Friday and actually talked to her but she was on a road trip and was going to call me back. I’m sure she forgot. No biggie. I called yesterday and left a message. She called me back this afternoon and I am booked for site 28.
Nice. How do the gauges hold up? I tried running one on the filter housing and shook 2 apart before I gave up and went electric sender remote mount on the firewall.
I’m not a Cummins guy so much but my brother is. He recently deleted and put a tuner on his 2007 6.7 which is now blowing through the clutch on tow mode. Recommendations for an upgraded clutch setup?
Thanks!
You know, the funny thing is that we were amazed at how good the light were back in 91. LOL
Cool project. I guess I’m getting old or spoiled because I find myself wanting more light these days.
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