the guy in the comments trying to call you out that plastigauge is better than measuring haha
Also, I liked when you were putting your first piston in and was like, “now go gently” and your pressing with a couple of fingers. I said to myself no way.. I have to tap with a dead blow handle. Then...
Maybe. One of my ZFs had a slight drip from the drain. I pulled it and was like ya it’s definitely missing an oring where it looks like it should be. Pulled the fill plug and yep same oring as your pic.
This the same reason I like spending money and effort on them.
If OP is just looking for an engine that you slap some upgrades on and it puts down good power then he should build a fummins
Reliability unknown but soon to be known. It’s going to be going on frequent cross state trips. I have it in spreadsheets. Not sure. Not cheap. If you’re worried about cost don’t mod an IDI.
I’ve tried from 3 to 16 for fun and honestly it’s a resilient engine for being off spec. I ran one at 11 for awhile and noticed hard hot restarts and I pulled it back. But if you have no issue then run it for now.
You got it. To be technical it’s the three “12 pt” bolts that hold the ip flange to the drive gear. You won’t miss it once you remove the inspection cover.
I have a full video on end to end drivetrain ujoints. I have a shop press. If you don’t have that I would find or buy online a Chinese hand held press like was linked in this thread. If you don’t have that you can honestly do it with a hammer. Will just require cursing with the hammer. You can...
I’ve done it both ways. I currently like it separate. If you do it together you need at minimum a load leveler and a second person. Separate you can manage alone but best with any type of helper as long as they have a couple fingers and one hand to make sure you aren’t bashing against the sides...
Put new ball joints in. Knocked the spindle bearings out. Passenger side is missing the thrust washer. That’s fine but looks like it’s a $74 washer set and only available from one place...
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