Hey youre taking it easy by merging with the 351M harness ;Poke
I can look at a diagram for the 351 80 harness late tonight or tomorrow if someone doesn’t respond by then
I’d recommend it’s time to start buying tools, cheap are fine, and start wrenching. You can do it. It’s all easy. A good impact, some harbor freight esque torque wrenches and you’re on your way. In 15 minutes you can have the driveshaft off the yoke and see clearly your pinion leak.
You started...
How much research have you done? You didn’t say anything about rods. The wrist pins are different sizes. Why are you rebuilding the ZF5? Should I assume you are going to do the logical things when you take the engine apart? IE oil cooler reseal, water pump, thermostat etc or you just want to...
That’s cool you got it from them. Throwback to the old days of the forum and IDIs. Isn’t it Mel’s daughter who owns the business now? Did you talk to them and find out whose building the pumps these days? They used to be local to me.
Started stripping the parts truck. Dash and interior wiring out. Removed the BW1356. Tomorrow I’ll pull the trans and engine and start the engine refresh.
Stock location you described correct. No idiot light. I run the engines first on my engine run stand I built with a mechanical gauge and then move them over to the electronic. Some pics of the gauges in the truck and the engine run stand during the design and build.
15ish hot idle
See below. Longer than factory but not bad. I angle it so that it rides up the firewall and away from any areas of concern from the head and manifold heat.
I have an aftermarket electronic gauge, no unusual oil pressure. Turbo is a factory ATS093 turbine housing machined for a garret t350 wheel. Compressor side, GTX3584r. The housing is a T04Z. I use AN fittings from the driver side galley.
If that was to me, I bend the first line up or down to fit. I’m ordering Chinese repos (really most everything is from China now). My next unbent set will be here next week and I’ll measure the length of the first line.
I just bend the NA lines as needed. Maybe 5 minutes. I haven’t ran a factory air box, if all the lines would need to be bent I could definitely understand why you would want specific. On my ATS093 I just had to bend the lines around the turbo area.
They are the same and bending is required and modification no matter what. It’s not just a bolt on thing. You want to buy the lines with the vibration clamps already installed unless you like pain. I get the cheapest ones off eBay that don’t have the sleeve showing.
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