^^^ exactly what I did...and all my old used Beru's showed the same resistance as one 'new' never used GP.
As I mentioned prior, this time I don't want to spend $$$ on a full new set of GP's and I don't want to put a 'new' GP in with the old.
If I had a few that were dead then yes, I would...
Actually way back when I purchased my truck 'new'...and I would replace the GP's I would 'burn' the old ones out of the truck via 12v battery and two wires.
I would indeed notice 'some' lighting faster and hotter than others.
I just wanted to go through my bag of 'used' GP's and try the...
Hey fellas, refresh my memory on how to test a used GP with the resistance method.
I have an older BluePoint digital multimeter; where to put the meter leads and Meter-settings and what resistance number to look for.
Reason...I can tell from a dead-cold start I know I have one bad GP but, I...
For a moment, back to that Ignition switch...even trying to compress (in hand) the inner spring with a small screwdriver WOW it has a lot of resistance. No wonder that pot-metal actuator is breaks!
New Ignition switch in, manufacture is 'Standard'. I did not use the Auto Zone or Advance Auto switch, even though THEY have a lifetime warranty.
Now I see how that bugger works and that the included clip is to make sure it in installed in the 'Key Lock position' and it's not a retaining clip...
New Ignition switch in, manufacture is 'Standard'. I did not use the Auto Zone or Advance Auto switch, even though THEY have a lifetime warranty.
Now I see how that bugger works and that the included clip is to make sure it in installed in the 'Key Lock position' and it's not a retaining clip...
Yea, my local (very old) radiator shop wanted $600 to recore my OE Rad...with only a one year warranty.
I know many don't want to here this but, I bought a Aluminum/plastic Rad from Advanced Auto...been in there for over three years. So far no complaints and it has a Lifetime warranty.
Gave the Truck about an hour on the Block Heater...turned the key and she fired right up.
Today's temps are NOT subfreezing -20, but 28 degrees.
In a few days warmer temps (close to 50) that's when I do the work.
***I will install a new Ignition Switch and here's why...over time I noticed I had...
Not really...our temps were below Zero but I loaded the Key and surrounding areas with WD40 and it helped quite a bit. And as mentioned prior it started fine the rest of the day.
Thanks fellas!
1)Auto Transmission
2)Reverse lights work
3)I don't believe my truck ever started in "Neutral" (I'll have to check that)
4)It's been starting just fine the rest of the day.
*I thought it would be this switch failing...
*Turned key to fire GP's got a good long burn (very cold here)
*Turned Key (till it wouldn't turn anymore) to 'START'...and I just hear a little 'click'
*Tried this a few times and got no Starter engagement.
So, I pop-open the hood and with Key in 'RUN' position and with a Screwdriver I...
With the Tilt Wheel I got in between the joints and also the WD40 straw went in deep into the column at the Turn Signal Arm...gave it a good squirt while I was turning the Key back and forth and that really helped matters. If you try this better put an old towel on the floor to catch the...
She's been plugged-in for two hours...like you stated above; turning to RUN position isn't the problem, turning to START is when things break. I may hook-up a long wire triggered remote starter off of the Solenoid.
I'm well aware of what I put in bold...nothing is broken YET and the actual Ignition Switch isn't what gets gummed-up. It's the actuator and other moving parts up higher in the column.
I'm just trying to think of/or 'if' I can get in there with a WD40 straw to loosen-up the gummed-up moving...
Those of us that live where the Winter temps go well below freezing know how our Ign Key can be a SOB to turn.
You get that worried feeling;
*will my Actuator snap? (pot metal piece in the steering column). PITA to change out, especially w/tilt wheel. Mine last snapped in 2009 and it was...
After my original Motorctaft GP's were going bad (bought my truck new) I ran Champs for well over 20 years...when they died (at least for me) I never had a problem getting them out and never experienced a swollen tip.
Don't know who was making the Champion GP's way back then vs now but again no...
Howes Lubricator Diesel Treat is now on my shelf. It's stated to "increase power" however and unlike Power Service clearly stating "Plus Cetane Boost", the Howes does not have such wording.
As long as it Lubricates and stops Fuel Gel I'll give it a try.
Been running whatever Plastic Aluminum Rad that Advance Auto sells...zero issues and a lifetime warranty.
However...the same Plastic Aluminum Rad I installed (from Advance Auto) in my 81 Corvette does weep, and I'll replace it with the same kind.
I still have both OE Brass/Copper Rads from my...
Thanks for the feedback fellas...as far as a local "Farm Supply" tff, I'm in the suburbs of Philadelphia.
My local Walmart (hate going in there) sells the Howes Lubricator Diesel Treat for a few $ less than Power Service and the Howes comes in a larger 64oz Jug.
So, when my smaller bottle of PS...
While I've never experienced a 'swollen' GP and I used Champions for well over a decade + (I actually replaced the failing OE Beru's with Champs since I bought my truck new in 1988) I have experienced slightly Warped/bent Beru's that had me sweating trying to get them out. The Beru GP's are...
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