Not likely, the only time your preload will come down is when the bearings wear in, but they won't wear in that much.
I mean, you're technically supposed to use a depth gauge to determine your pinion depth shim thickness anytime you change bearings. Usually, if you're using good bearings, it...
The last carbide porting burrs I bought were from eastwood. They had like a 6 inch long shank, which made them nice for situations like this. They worked great, but needed a variable speed grinder, as they would develop a bad harmonic in them that would cause them to jump around if operated at...
The little bit of fluid in a clutch wouldn't require much of a leak for it to leak out. Maybe put a plug and refill it when needed. I considered doing this on the school bus, as the cheapest clutch/fan I could find was close to a grand, but I found an NOS clutch for 100 bucks shipped and went...
I've debated on posting this, as I want it for myself. But I really don't want to **** off my soon to be wife 2 months before the wedding, and buying this will do just that. So here it is 1993 One ton Ford Centurion bronco with 7.3 diesel non turbo...
There's some truth to that, as it's not so much pressure, but velocity. You don't want backpressure in any exhaust system. But the engine requires the exhaust to leave out of some sort of pipe, and that it maintains velocity in the pipe to create a vacuum in the combustion chamber during valve...
I'd buy a handful of parts trucks and park them around the place. It doesn't sound like there's anything they can do about it, so if karen wants to play, lets play.
What are you using with your buffer? My suggestion is use a cutting compound, followed by polishing compound and then a good wax...
I really don't get the forum's aversion to plastic/aluminum radiators. Nearly all passenger car and light truck radiators made in the last 20 years are of this variety. If the design was such a widespread problem, I think I'd see more issues with it.
With that said, I don't think I'd swap out a...
Pros are that it reduces intake air temps, which will reduce egt's and give a modest increase in power.
Cons is that it's a system that relies upon a consumable fluid for operation. Run it out and it no longer works.
There are plenty of threads on here describing water/methanol use. IIRC one...
Depends on what's actually causing the ailments. If it's a lack of coolant flow through the engine then yes. If it's overheating because the radiator is plugged solid, or the fan clutch doesn't work, then no.
Flowkooler assembles in the USA. I think the impellers and bearings are from here as well. But the castings are sources from whatever pump manufacturer is cheapest. On one, they didn't even remove the GMB logo off the casting.
This was a few years ago. With covid I have no idea what they're doing.
I'd go with one of these before I'd shell out money for a motorcraft.
https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/products/1664-1983-1994-ford-420-445-water-pump
I've always liked the flowkooler brand.
Unless it's NOS motorcraft from 10 years ago, it's likely no different then any parts store pump. Most...
Napa is better then most. But even they're hit and miss.
For instance, the shop had a starter go out on a 2007 surburban w/ a 5.3. After 4 napa starters, different shims, and plenty of hair pulled, we finally got a starter who's bendix would work and would retract the gear out of the flywheel...
I did something similar using one of those foam headlight restoration pads and some lapping compound. Looked pretty sharp, but the shine made it hard to read the gauges, so it was painted over.
A lot of your socket cap screws exceed grade 8 rating for tensile strength and hardness. Confirm with your exact bolt with spec's from the manufacturer, but again, most are premium compared to most hex head fasteners out there.
This is what I do. Pull plugs and then crank until you have pressure and oil visible at each rocker arm. Some people say to use a preluber, but the only time I do that is with flat tappet cams because you don't want any excess rotation to wipe a lobe.
IDI's have roller tappets, so no need to...
Most likely something that is tes295 certified. The list of approved fluids can be found here here under the TES295 tab.
We use Shell Spirax S6 ATF A295. You can likely find alternatives if you look. Allison has a house brand available called transynd, that's made for them by castrol I believe...
Where'd you get the tranny goodies from? CAC? Interesting that you're using the GM bell vs the SAE one. Will you gain more floor pan clearance that way? What did the adapter/trans/etc run ya? I assume it's a 6 speed version? I assume for throttle input you're going to use the ford tps sensor...
Probably rusted off, as in normal use they should never break. Those clamps are not supposed to hold the spring together tightly, just enough to keep the leaves from separating in an axle twist situation. The one you replaced it with was likely too tight which is why it snapped. The leaves being...
Did the original one on the driver's side rust off? Or why did you replace it with the U-bolt style? Those clamps are to prevent axle wrap, the one you have on the passenger is correct as it's designed to allow the springs to slide on each other with suspension travel. The one that's broken...
You need a timing device of some sort. The marks on these are for reference with the original pump. Your new pump needs timed correctly and a new mark made.
You need to have it timed sooner rather then later before you ruin something.
Your shrinkwrap looks good. Maybe a little short, but I prefer mine longer then what most will use. You likely won't have an issue with the splice, considering every one of those 3 prong lights that I've seen have corrosion issues within a year.
We've switched to installing 3/4" led clearance...
You for sure don't want to block the heater hose and the thermostat bypass. That dead heads the system giving you no coolant circulation during warm up.
Have one or the other blocked, but not both. IMO I'd put a ball valve on the heater line, to block the heater flow and then leave the...
Pulling the thermostat might work, so long as the bypass below it is sealed off with a freeze plug or something else. Another thing I haven't seen mentioned is shutting off coolant flow to the heater. That can also allow coolant to bypass the radiator.
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