Make sure your mechanical fuel pump hasn't gone bad. I've had several go south on me and pump diesel into the crankcase. Just keep an eye on your oil level. :Thumbs Up
I finally went to an electric fuel pump.
I don't think a digital gauge is any better than an analog gauge. It's just user preference. They both use a sender and the gauge responds to the signal from the sender.
You can get a true mechanical gauge though. The vacuum gauge I have is a mechanical gauge with an analog display. It doesn't...
I have an AutoMeter vacuum gauge, coolant temperature sensor and pyrometer in my truck. They work great.
I recently bought a GlowShift fuel pressure gauge and just have it in the bag with my timing light and piezoelectric spark adapter. It works well too. I compared it to the older handheld...
Good point.
We'll see if I ever try to run WVO or brew some BD. I live in the suburbs of OKC so getting the WVO wouldn't be a problem for me if the restaurants I visit are willing to part with it.
You can use Kolor Kut water finding paste when you get WMO or veggie oil used from an oil change business or restaurant.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/178106256275
Fuel tank work on these trucks is a PITFA! I've never removed the bed, I can only imagine it might make the work easier. :dunno
Definitely give it a day if it's fighting you.
Sorry I gave you the wrong part numbers. :Q
I don't know if it will help for your truck but I had originally ordered the following sending unit for my truck:
FG114A
I think I got it on RockAuto. It has a 4 prong plug (signal, ground, + and - for the pump). It's for the gas trucks with a fuel...
That's crazy the connectors are wrong. Both of the FSUs I got from Amazon had the dual prong connector.
I actually had to buy the wire end of the connector from LMC Truck for my side tank because I had tried to modify the circuit to a 4 prong connector on the FSU. That didn't work well. :idiot:
I ordered both of the sending units from Amazon. Here are the part numbers to use (for the old dual prong FSUs).
Front: FMSU-6DE
Rear: E5TFDB
The FSU above is for the side tank. Here's the rear tank FSU. Note, I've been doing this project since 1/26. Removing the tanks to service these FSUs...
If you already have an intercooled turbo on your 6.9l chances are you won't be able to do many more power improvements without head studs. Check here for rebuilt IPs and IDI parts:
https://classicdieseldesigns.com/
https://moosediesel.com/
https://idiperformance.com/
I've ordered from CDD...
You might consider lengthening the fuel sending unit pickup by a few inches with 3/8" fuel line and a compression fitting. You can use a 3/8" fuel line strainer available at Summit, Jegs or Amazon.
I replaced the shower head in my side tank with one I got from Amazon that had the later PSD...
Also, you could check that wire and trace it. Does it go to the glow plug controller on the back of the driver's head, or does it go to the glow plug relay behind the passenger's side battery?
Sorry, didn't think to just "Edit" the post first. :frustrate
I've read that folks use ether to start these IDIs regularly. Just make sure you don't use ether AND glow plugs. One or the other, not together. It should just take a snort of ether if you're using it, no need to dousch it heavily.
I have the Horrible Freight compression tester. It works well...
Thanks for the link. I've considered getting into using WVO and brewing some BD, or at least cutting filtered WVO with diesel. I've heard the stories about excessive wear on injectors and IP. Now would be the time for me to do it since I just rebuilt my injectors and have the OE IP (or at least...
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