With the IDI/ZF5, 3.54 is nice for a lighter truck that's an everyday driver and highway travel. Low range is still there for tugging things around. 4.10 would be my choice for a heavier truck or needs to haul more regularly.
No need for an aux overdrive, IMHO. Those rpms are nothing to sweat...
30 at the front, i think, last i checked. Chevy was 28. I dealt with the difference fitting a Chevy bumper on my dodge..
I think ford is at 38ish... as the bumper bolts are slightly inboard of the rails.
I have a haywire possible-future plan with a 7.3 Tidi. It would use the f350 frame chunk and matching dana 60.
Otherwise I'm not sure the dodge frame is roomy enough. The oil cooler log on the driver side is one thing, starter is a tight fit on the ford already, then that huge radiator that...
I junked two NA IDI cores that came to me free. Didn't have the space or time to bother with them.
When Tidi runner came up for grabs (albeit not run for last 10 years) I dragged that home for safekeeping in the shop corner.
As popular as the turbo jewelry is for scalping, I would still keep...
Probably. I also knew it would need to be a rebuilt later model because those early 700's were failure-prone behind the diesel.
The manual was more what i wanted. The parts came cheap and easy enough.
Fwiw, I had a 6.2L diesel suburban with 3spd auto and 4.10 gears. 12 mpg. I hated the arrangement for the highway use I was doing regularly.
I did the axle ratio and transmission. 3.21 axle swap and 4spd manual. I had 17mpg after that.
I might burn on a chunk of flatbar as a backing with the 'right' holes.
I dont feel level matters so long you are wise to the fact that the 3 eye-bolt positions change the height and spring attitude slightly.
I have seen SKY's brackets before and they are beefy. Probably splice a frame with...
Lots of guys put crossover steering on their older Chevs and Dodges. The really tall and/or flexy ones end up needing a trac bar, but the lower-lift ones generally don't.
Have you tried it without a trac bar?
You may not need it since you have a reverse shackle on there. The factory front shackle isn't very stable, and that's why they used one.
The factory trac bar on the 85-97 f350 is shorter, and mounts to the belly of the engine cradle. Maybe find that bracket off an f350 and shorten your bar.
On a 78-79 Bronco the bracket is vertical on the outboard side of the frame and hangs down to hook up to the bar.
My understanding is the 460 and diesel bells can be modified slightly to fit the opposite engine.
If swapping gear clusters between transmission cases, then I believe you can use the ZF5 guts from any gas engine (i.e. 351W).
Beware of the non-compatible M5OD 5spd used in the F150 and some...
I don't trust simply re-tightening a yoke if it's come loose (in a crush sleeve diff). Might get you by until parts show up, if driving nice.
Changing pinion bearings means tearing the diff down. (Well, not the hub bearings.) Get a crush-sleeve eliminator along with any bearings it needs.
I don't think the hanger angle is a problem either. The hangers on my ramcharger look angled too, yet they are straight on the same era dodge pickup.
What's going to affect ride and handling more is changing the overall angle of the leaf spring (rear lower than the front).
Hydroboost is a substantial gain in braking performance. Best mod I ever did to my F350.
Superduty or big-brake kits get you up the 1.5-1.6" thick rotors that won't warp like the older thinner ones.
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