4.56 with e4od, and the us gear od would work out pretty good. I will say though, the usg units I have been around tend to run hot with high driveshaft rpm and extended time. The one I have now, with 355 gears , and stock height tires will start smelling like gear oil after a couple hours at 75...
Its been so long. I swear I remember modding the shoes and they were steel. I do remember talking about making the plunger shorter, maybe he did. Just dont remember.......
Played with a factory turbo ford pump years ago, we were able to get what felt like significantly more fuel out of it, but never removes the leaf spring. I think all we did was cut the one side of the roller holder shorter so it could move farther before being limited by the leaf spring. Been a...
There are also 2.5 kw mitsu starters, and they do suck. Have to look at specs.....if they are even accurate. Had to look a bit to get an actual 3.5kw mitsu starter. If I remember correctly, the standard napa reman mitsu is 2 or 2.5kw. And the napa reman nippondenso is 2kw. Cranking speed is ok...
They dont spin it any faster. You dont. Get any more cranking speed until you move up to the 4.0kw nippondenso starter, but as far as I have seen, they are all chinese.
The nippondenso style starters do better with low voltage, but most of them are in the 2 to 2.5kw range. The factory mitsu...
Sorry, wasnt really poking fun, just for some reason reminded me of that guy.
Removing the arm of the fss, makes the fss unable to close the metering valve, also letting the engine run with no power.
My truck has done the same thing for as long as I can remember. Almost never even acts like it will start first try, starts second try like you forgot ro turn something on the first try. Must have a small leak somewhere, as it is much worse if parked uphill at all.
I dont know why, but this thread reminds me of a guy I know, that since the heater core was plugged in his truck, used a small diesel fueled torpedo heater on the seat to keep warm. Generator in the bed.
If it is smoking alot, it can take awhile with each injector disconnected for the smoke to clear up enough to know for sure. Look at the exhaust ports, sometimes that can show the cylinder.
In my experience, drain back that causes extended cranking, and not the starts and then dies, is usually a leak at the injection pump. Look for signs of wetness (may not be any). Some times parking uphill, and then listening with the stethoscope tube at any leak points will find it.
Some are exceptional starting for whatever reason, but in owning many of them and working on lots of them, more of them tend to be on the tougher starting side of things than the real easy starters
Something that I never see mentioned in cold start threads, especially where others jump in and say "my truck started just fine at minus whatever temp, yours should start better than that", is that the actual engine temp might not be the same as current air temp, depending on how long the air...
Is this a single cyl missfire, or does it blubber like an over revved gasser floating valves?
Most likely the timing is a little slow, causing it to blubber like that when revved up.
Cranking speed is way slow. Should crank much faster. That will make it start much better.
It does sound on the noisy side to me, but hard to tell with a video for sure.
Have been in lots of 1356 transfer cases. Never replaced a chain in one, even pickups used hard with chains on the front almost daily all winter. Really all that ever happens to them is either the pump bracket breaks, or wears through the holder in the case. Even that isnt usually noticed until...
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