I’ve had the stainless mile marker hubs on my truck for two years now. They’re holding up fine but I’ve only used them a handful of times. If anyone else has positive or negative experience with more heavy use I’d like to hear it.
Haha I saw the bot posts but not the age of the posts before it. I think it’s safe to assume that tailhousing is no longer for sale!
One of these days I’ll fab up a support for the transfer case to take the weight off the tailhousing. For now I just make sure to replace the transmission mount...
I don’t think they make it in 15w40 yet, but Valvoline makes a new oil called “restore and protect” that is making waves among oil nerds for its ability to clean sludge and deposits. They do make a 10w30 though which would work in the wintertime. If you’re already adding oil maybe something like...
This is what I was getting at when I was asking how it could pop out of gear with only the pilot bearing loose. I would try to wiggle the input shaft and see if there is any play.
Side note: I have the 460 gears in my zf5, but I swapped the gearset into a diesel case.
When the transmission was rebuilt, do you know if they replaced the plastic shifter guides/bushings? They’re not included in the rebuild kits I’ve seen, you have to buy them separately which means a transmission shop might skip replacing them.
First off, this sucks and I’m sorry it happened to you. I would check the cylinders to verify roundness and lack of taper, starting with #7. If the machine shop used on old worn out boring bar, it might be the right diameter at the top but a lot bigger at the bottom. That’s just the first thing...
I bought this one but I can’t comment on quality because I haven’t installed it yet:
https://a.co/d/66KSFuk
For a tach signal, I’ve heard you can use the stator output on the alternator. Maybe you could try that before switching to a different tachometer.
My bet is you need new positive and negative battery cables. Remember, if your voltage is dropping on the way to the starter due to bad connections or cables, the amps are going up due to Ohms law. You might even see the connection on the starter glowing red if it’s bad enough. Lots of starters...
I have 2 suggestions:
You might try checking whether your fuel tank is venting properly. When you start having fueling issues, unscrew the gas cap and listen for a “whooshing” sound. Or try loosening the gas cap when the issues show up and see if they disappear. If your tank’s not venting you...
I didn’t realize the 6.9s and the 7.3s take different fuel filters. I know you can buy the 7.3 filter housing for cheap on Amazon, so you could always delete the firewall-mounted water separator and run a 7.3 style filter that has a built-in water separator like the Wix 33617.
Wow those lights blow my stock headlights out of the water, even with my relays and extra-bright bulbs. This really makes me want to attempt a DIY Aussie conversion
I can vouch for the diesel purge for cleaning the IP. I had an issue where my truck would die when I let off the gas after accelerating or just revving the engine. I read that this tends to happen when your metering valve gets gummed up in the IP. I ordered two cans of diesel purge off Amazon...
I think I used a shotgun bore brush in a cordless drill to clean the bores on mine. Ever since I had an injector seize in the bore due to carbon buildup, I over-torque them on install to make sure that copper washer seals. It’s not fun when you unscrew and injector and only the top half comes...
The cam was one of the things I thought would be different, but it had the international part number for a truck cam stamped into the end of it (1804449C1)
I thought I’d circle back to this in case somebody searches for info in the future. Keep in mind this boat motor is an NA motor from 1988, so later/turbo motors might be a totally different story. But in my case the heads and all of the engine internals were standard International parts. The IP...
The service manual I have is from International not Ford, so I guess it makes sense that they list an air compressor for air brakes rather than a vacuum pump for vacuum-assist brakes. I didn’t notice that, and I can’t say for sure that the belt deflection would be the same on the vacuum pump...
Isn’t that fitting a standard1/4 or 1/8 ORB ( o-ring boss)? If it is, you can buy a replacement from any hydraulic parts place:
https://www.hydraulicsdirect.com/hose-ends/barbed-push-lock/beaded-hose-ends-steel/4601
I almost always stick one of those super strong rare earth magnets to the end of my regular drain plugs, or somewhere else that makes sense. Like on my rear diff I just stick it to the gear cover in the bottom corner. Those things are so strong you can hardly pry them off with your fingernail...
I sent them an email this morning telling them my measurements and asking whether I got a bad set or whether they are all this way. In the meantime I re-installed my old lines except for #1 since it was the correct length in the new set and my old one was messed up. This has been a major pain...
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