When you had the bleeder cracked was the wheel still difficult to spin by hand? If so, the I think the issue is in your hub. With the caliper removed, how hard is it to spin the hub by hand? I wonder if the hub nut is tighter on the passenger side than it should be, causing too much bearing...
It’s actually really good to know that the return fuel from the IP provides no benefit to the injectors, and that very little fuel flows to the tank from the injectors themselves. That means when I need to run the engine directly from a container of injector cleaner, I can route the feed line...
You should try loosening the bleeder valve on the dragging caliper, and seeing if it is still tight with the hydraulic pressure relieved. If it’s still tight, you know the issue isn’t hydraulic and has to be a mechanical one like a bent caliper bracket or crooked caliper groove.
When you...
We’ll I learn something new every day on this forum! I thought the excess fuel from the IP provided cooling to the injectors as it flowed past them, but if the experts say otherwise I 100% defer to them.
The injectors are cooled by the return fuel flow, so I wonder if your return line clogged or something and kept that injector from being able to cool itself.
This is the video I originally came across of the stuff in action. These guys also put a disposable filter on the return hose, which I think is a great idea while doing this. I think this conversation is finally motivating me to get that can off the shelf and use it lol.
I know a lot of people like ATF as a cleaner, but I’ve heard very good things about this product:
Liqui-Moly Diesel Purge Injection Cleaner (500 ml 16.9 oz set of 2 https://a.co/d/h7ZNCN8
Apparently it’s popular in Europe to help diesels pass emissions tests. The best way to use it is to run...
If you are keeping the stock glow plug controller, aren’t there fusable links on the two 10ga wires that feed power from the passenger fender to the GP controller? I have the 6.0 glow plug harness, but I kept the stock controller and everything else.
On my truck the flexible circuit board on the back of the gauge cluster is brittle and cracked, severing a couple circuits. If you have multiple gauges/lights not working you might have the same issue.
You want Mercon LV in the transfer case, not Mercon V. I remember something about the mercon v not being compatible and causing TCs to burn up. I used the valvoline maxlife multi-vehicle.
Have you checked the length of the brake booster pushrod? You can screw the end of it in/out to adjust the length, and if it’s too long it’s putting slight pressure on the brakes all the time. The pushrod should stick out almost exactly 1 inch if I remember correctly.
Some people, including myself, have had success buying a roll of “L” shaped garage door seal and making our own cowl/hood seal. It was much cheaper and works great
The valley pan has a drain hole at the rear that should let water drain down the back of the engine. If it’s blocked and your CDR tube is totally disintegrated, water could be getting in. But if that’s the case you should be able to see standing water in the valley pan. I’d shine a flashlight...
If your shower head disintegrated you might have plastic chunks clogging up your fuel selector valve. Have you checked whether the problem is worse when you pull from the front tank vs. the rear? Maybe shine a flashlight and see if there are tiny bits of plastic in your facet strainer. I run...
As someone else said, if it’s not a solid front axle there’s no way for the gear oil to get to the wheel. It would be leaking back at the differential housing, where the axle shaft exits the pumpkin. Are you sure it’s not brake fluid leaking from the caliper? The stuff on the outside of the...
I’d take a look at your wiring under the truck as well. Previous owner of my truck did a real hack job adding/modifying the trailer hitch wiring, and it’s caused me problems with my taillights. I actually just bought a bunch of new wire to re-do the rear wiring harness.
Those rubber balls in the gearbox are meant to be a safety feature. They squish and stop transferring power if someone fingers are stuck in the window. Some people replace them with ball bearings when they disintegrate, but you can buy the rebuild kit for like $12 on Amazon so I went that route.
I have an EGT gauge on my stock 7.3 NA. You never know whether a previous owner has turned the pump up, or if the timing could be off causing high EGTs. To me it’s a peace of mind thing, like an oil pressure gauge.
I’ve looked around and none of the free ones gave me any useful information. I’d like to get one of the good reports eventually, mainly to know how many times the odometer has rolled over!
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