How are your clutch pedal bushings under the dash? I wonder if there’s a lot of slop there keeping you from fully releasing the clutch when you press the pedal.
In addition to replacing the plug for the 2 glow plug wires, I plan to replace the 10 gauge wires with something heavier. Those plugs I posted can take up to a 6 gauge, and the glow plugs pull a lot of amps.
Apparently ZD-9 glow plugs are being superseded with part # ZD-29. Has anybody bought the new ones? Do you notice any physical difference between them? ZD-9 plugs are still available, so I’m debating whether I should buy a set, or trust that the new ones will be just as good (or better?). What...
Previous owner permanently spliced all those wires on my truck. Eventually I plan to buy this for the glow plug wires (the yellow 10 gauge ones):
https://a.co/d/g6tvyNC
And this for the rest of the wires:
https://a.co/d/1F6A9y9
It’s on the “to-do” list, but who knows when I’ll get around to it!
I’ve been waiting for Russ to chime in on this thread. I know he doesn’t accept IPs that have ran WMO as cores, and using WMO on one of his rebuilds voids the warranty. He must have made that policy change for a reason.
I bought the 750cca everstart plus at Walmart, and they crank my engine over fast. I also replaced/upgraded the starter at the same time though. Unless your batteries are old, I would test for voltage drop at the starter before you replace the batteries. Your batteries might be fine, but your...
If you’re trying to prevent oil messes, check your oil fill cap as well. Mine was missing the rubber seal, and had allowed blowby oil mist to leak out and coat everything.
I just replaced my rear axle, and torqued the u-bolts to 170 ft lb. I used 5/8” grade 8 u-bolts from rough country. They didn’t come with instructions, so I used the chart on the last page of this document:
https://www.suspensionspecialists.com/techinfo/Ubolt_Information.pdf
I don’t run WMO, but Like most of us I’ve considered it. I think the cheapest way to clean the WMO would be gravity-fed whole house water filters. The housings are cheap and easy to plumb, and you can buy the filters in bulk for about a dollar each. You can buy them down to 1 micron too...
I do have a 1991 F-150 single cab 2wd with a 5.0 and m5OD manual trans. I bought it a year ago planning to swap the rust-free bed and power doors onto my IDI, but I haven’t got around to it yet. If you lived closer I’d offer it plus some cash for your IDI, but you can probably find a better...
I came across this page a while back and saved it:
http://www.blackwire.com/~bjordan/Tech/Rebuilding_IDI_injectors.pdf
I can’t vouch for his process because I never tried it. If you try it, definitely let us know how it goes!
I know R&D moved into a new shop in 2022, which probably created a backlog of work during the downtime. I just thought it would be good to share that R&D seems to be focused on building custom engines vs. selling individual components right now. Not bashing Justin at all, I’m honestly glad that...
I’m jealous you were able to get some. When I inquired about injectors and a pump, he told me that he was so busy building engines he couldn’t give me an ETA on availability.
For better filtering, have you thought about using gravity-fed whole-house water filters? It would be super slow, but you can get 1 micron filters for $1-$2 bucks a piece if you buy in bulk. The housings are only $20-$25 as well.
Express Water – 50 Pack Sediment Water Filter Replacement – 1...
Yep I definitely understand the annoyance of a noisy cab. Between the mud tires, the exhaust leak, the rust holes in the floor pans, and the broken wing window latch, it sure gets noisy in the highway!
I bought my truck (and joined this forum) just over a year ago, and I feel the same way you do. I’m super grateful for all the knowledge here, and glad to have my truck graduate from “project” to “daily driver” status. This really is a great community.
I also want to add that the zf5 is pretty straightforward to rebuild, there was a very thorough walkthrough on YouTube that I watched, and the zf-5 tech manual is available online for free and has step-by-step instructions.
Your truck looks like it sits about as tall as mine does, and I was able to remove and reinstall my zf5 without jacking up the truck. I modified my floor jack to act like a transmission jack, using a piece of plywood reinforced with 14 gauge sheet metal in the bottom. I made it so I could bolt...
From what you said it’s 100% certain that you need a new flywheel. The LuK 07225 kit is $316 on rockauto right now. I would’t spend a dime on your transmission until you see how it sounds with a new flywheel. It’s not a hard job, I did it in my driveway without any specialized tools.
Based on what I’ve read, it reads the weak signal from the sensor on the filter and sends 12v to the light in the dash like chillman said. Given that they’re $60-$100 to replace, I think I’ll live without my WIF light until I can salvage one off a junk truck.
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