That's a pricey unit. It's got a big following over the years but have you checked with KC Turbos to see their other more recent stuff as well? I'd give them a call or email with the info you've got above and see what they might recommend. I recently upgraded my stock unit to a smaller A/R...
https://www.gohypermax.com/ProductDisplay.aspx?id=ac1c22c9-c515-4b4a-82cc-8df2dccc5adb
Hypermax engineering has done something along these lines with a mechanically injected direct injected Powerstroke and they sell the parts too. I suggest you research this idea in the threads of this and...
I too was going to suggest checking the vent line and or the actual axle vent. Down here, the rubber likes to dry out and crack and they frequently fall off but then the dirt daubers like to plug them up so it's easy to get moisture trapped inside. If the pinion turns nice and smooth with the...
You can find the ATS 093 Installation instruction here:
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/ats-turbo-install-instructions.30551/post-342402
I was incorrect earlier about having both the feed pipe and the drain bolted to the turbo, ATS says Drain casting in place on the manifold and feed...
The correct place to power the Visor lights would be from the plug intended for the cab running lights. On '92-'97 OBS trucks it's a 2 pin plug behind the passenger side kick panel near where the Door harness plug connects. On '87-'91 it's behind the driver side kick panel maybe also behind the...
The solenoids on top of those injectors are not unique to the 75hp increase. The upgrade is the hard parts down inside the injector. There are some specifications and a process to follow but you could put the solenoids from your plow truck on the 75hp injectors. The thing to check on however...
You mentioned earlier that you noticed black spots in the coolant bottle. Are you sure it was oil or could it have been soot? Soot is classic injector cups, oil is usually the cooler but you have addressed that already.
If coolant is getting past the cups into the cylinder then it's down past...
Do you have the Factory EVTM for the truck? That manual will show you all the splices and connectors and such that are supposed to be in the circuit from the factory. It also generally tells you where the harnesses route to figure out where the circuits may be found. If you don't have it, you...
The "clocking" of both the exhaust and compressor housings are most likely your issue. Get the threads fixed and then set it into place on the drain pedestal with the housings just snug so you can tap them to rotate with a block of wood to make everything lines up. Then lift it up again enough...
What I remember is that it will bolt to your frame but you have to drill out the holes larger and the input shaft is splined the same, but the pitman arm may have to be reamed for the D-60 rod end or have a conversion busing installed and the fittings on the box are metric so you have to convert...
Have you considered putting the engine and trans from the motor home into the truck? Seems like over the past couple years you've put most of your money and effort into the RV and it's powertrain. If you're going to cut it loose, don't waste all that effort you put in it. You've got a proven...
You've '89 7.3 but is it in a truck, van, bus/motorhome? In '89 I believe the vans and busses/motorhomes still had the c-6 and I think it was still an option for trucks too. If it's in a truck, do you have an overdrive cancel button on the panel to the right of the steering wheel below the...
Go to the following link and download the wiring diagrams and the EVTM for your truck. If you poke around on that site a bit, you'll also find a listing of all the connectors and signals as well.
https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/wiring-diagrams.html
I think going for a rebuild right before going on a trip is a recipe for bad stuff to happen. It sounds like all the other IDIs I'm familiar with, I too have heard those faint ticks and hollow knocks and I think they all have them in some form or fashion. I think you're on the right track, get...
To be honest I don't know what it might be called. It's unlikely that you will find it by it's technical name after all these years unless it was a ford serviceable part by itself. Maybe one of the old timers here has an idea but not me. The best place to start is a local wrecking yard. Often...
Find the two ATSG books shared on this site. They are the go to manuals for rebuilding and updating the e4od.
If you pay less than $500 for a triple disk converter, it’ll likely be like the one described above. Billet front cover, triple disk, torrington style thrust bearings and furnace brazed...
Here's a link to the pics I remember but they are kind of small and I can't find a larger version of the images. It's post 13 if the link doesn't take you directly there. Basically the lower portion of the injector cup is the water jacket so where it seals to the cyl head, if that fails then...
Pretty sure the next easiest thing to check would be injector cups. Pull the valve covers and pressurize again and see if coolant is coming up past the injectors orings. If it’s not obvious there, then pull the injectors one at a time until you find a steam cleaned nozzle and see if you can hear...
As far as I know, all crankshafts are the same for the 7.3 IDI. The turbo version balancing comes from the harmonic balancer and the flywheel/flexplates are different from N/A too.
The ‘99 and newer ones are more plentiful for sure but there’s some adaptation to make it fit our firewalls and master cylinders. The bolt in choice is a complete system from a f-superduty otherwise there’s will be some retrofitting required. I believe there is a pretty comprehensive thread up...
I think I’d get a different plate that wasn’t stripped, or get new nuts welded on. The helicoil needs locktite for sure but this is a really shallow and very exposed application, not sure if I’d use them for this one. I’m sure Wes or Russ have numerous ones laying in the parts pile not mention...
Make sure the rtv you use is rated for diesel oil. I always use the motorcraft TA-31 product but others use one of the permatex gray products. If it’s not formulated to be compatible with diesel and diesel oils, then it swells over time and starts to leak.
I don’t think they provide more angle. Swapping to a D60 will be tighter radius than the D50 but that’s in the knuckle stops. If you want to tighten your your steering slop, I would first suggest checking how worn out your steering shaft is. Not many people pay attention to the fit of the upper...
Looks good now, glad you got it. Might want to consider heat wrap or ceramic coating that feed pipe to help keep the heat off the return rails. I don’t have much experience with the solid return rails but excess aluminum expansion or enough transferred heat to melt the orings at that last...
Second on the above, only use motorcraft/Ford or the international equivalent part numbers. All the part numbers are in the IDI quick reference threads at the top of forum headers.
Your fan clutch could be not working very well, do you hear a significant change in engine noise as the engine...
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