I know that.....but do I have to remove pan and all the valve body n stuff.....or can I go through trans behind pump and work my way down to the tail shaft which is held in place w a circlip?
I hope i dont have to remove pan and parts. I hope it is pretty simple.
Suppose best way....gut my 92...
Curious if anyone knows how hard to convert a solid rebuilt 2wd E4OD to a 4 wd.
I have access to a freshly rebuilt 2wd w new TQ and such from a van and I want to make it into 4wd from my dead 4wd model.
Anyone????
Over torquing pp bolts... and if one broke or stretched then the pp clamping force will be weaker than should be thus causing slippage and or chatter unxer load.
Not really true...
If you have air intrusion from bad return lines caps that cam be an issue but if lift pump is working a 25k swap hardly worth it.
Lets deal w 1 thing at a time.
Since u already ordered without testing old ones....
1st MAKE SURE YOU HAVE BERU ZD1 glow plugs not some other...
Got aroud to removing broken shifter arm from inside E4OD and installing a replacement and the linkage.
Topped up 12.5L of TDH Fluid in trans.
Installed a replacement rear most U joint in rear drive shaft and reinstalled it.
Fired truck up....now drives under its own power.
Need to now...
Nope i wrote 3 timing threads...those are what I am referring too.
All you need iz an amplified signal from the injection line bumped up to trigger a timing light....or a fox adapter and timing tape amd timing light.
There are 3 timikg threads I did....comparing static timimg lights and advance lights utilizing the piezo clamp on the injector line.
There is a Fox brand clamp IIRC that isnt too expenskve and timing ligjt and timing tape...for static lights...and or advance lights.
This makes me wonder if...
There is no gasket for 1 it is JUST RTV NO GASKET
Do not use a gasket for 2
It is easiest to remove engine and whilst it is out redo OIL COOLER too for good mesure
JM7.3CW Eh!
Funny...not 1 recomendation for rtv....perhaps because it can mess up the oil cooler bad?
The dingle berries can break off inside and clog the oil cooler tubs thus effectively making it useless.
JM7.3CW
When servicing ANY FULL FLOAT axle even oil bathed...it is a good idea to lightly pack bearings w grease. This is indicated in the FSM and it has been my best practice for 30 years w nary an issue with dry bearings.
You can go full load when done this way...no fartijg around jacking truck up...
Some folks have been knkwn to drill a small hole tap it and add a grease nipple to kibosh the problem forever when it is apart and cleaned....
JM7.3CW Eh!
1356 no crush sleeve.......udder 1 no clue
Try n see if splines and diameter work...you do know how to count and measure right?
All sass aside wish could give definitive answe but camt.
IMHO the upper is stuck in a mass of carbon buildup.
You can attempt to put some lateral pressur on the top of injector...side to side and for and aft. This may work it enough to slip it up..
It may require a side hammer or some variant of said tool to work upper half out. Then grimd down...
Worn guides do not always show as soot build up.
There is still a good chance of bad guids and a crankkng compression test does not induce near the same forces or issues a running engine sees. At cranking speed the valve has a lot more time to seat and hold pressure than a running engine and...
Without changing both heads you have likely no way to know for certain if it was the head you repaired and installed or the other sides head you did not swap.
You had 2 heads rebuilt correct???
Then for time sake you surely did save however for $$ sake you cost yourself dearly...as well as...
An idea for piston to valve clearance check could be to use some plasti guage if you do not have correct tools.
Also some very light springs and dial indicator...
Old school we would use plasterscene on top of piston and then discect it measure thickness...
Just a few thoughts.
The vice...
Dissable gp discoonect its power feed...plug in block heater...attempt start with either...short 1/2 second spurt as you crank engine....dont spray before crank....get it spinning and a wee mist 1/2 second spft of it..see if lights off...
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