Wellll... I got my EE degree almost 40 years ago and analog gauges are much easier to interpret when the data is slowly wandering (like EGT and boost). Those constantly changing numbers would drive me nuts. DVM's are great for steady readings, but I'll take my old Triplett 630 for anything...
Not sure I can do that until I get the turbo installed :peelout :sly
It was easier just to tilt the cluster until the needle swung back to the lower part of the scale.
I made a bracket and mounted the 2" pyro on the lower right of the dash.. it's not perfect since sometimes the steering wheel blocks it, but I won't be watching it constantly and there are few other possible locations where it won't block something. I might raise it up a bit.
The 1-1/2" pressure...
Must have been a really small gauge... the body of my (0-15 psi) gauge is 1.600" so I used a 1-1/2" saw and my trusty Shaviv deburring tool to carefully enlarge the hole until it was a press fit. I'm thinking of using a big O-ring to make sure it stays put, so that will require removing the...
At some point I will need to remove the cluster to jumper the 20-ohm resistor on the fake oil pressure gauge. Is that a lot of additional work, or will it be obvious once the bezel is off?
The headlight knob's on the left... so the entire bezel (both sides of the steering column) comes off in one piece? I hate working with trim. :rolleyes:
Thanks for the info.
I carefully drilled a 1/4" pilot hole in the center of it, nothing obviously running through that area, then the hole saw to make the gauge opening. Nothing behind there at all. It also feels like it's part of the dash (not a snap-in piece), although maybe it's just been in there forever. Now to...
Yep... I would start by just measuring the voltage directly at the starter while cranking. From the stud itself to the body of the starter. If it's good, the problem is the starter. Otherwise start chasing bad connections.
This looks like the perfect spot (far right of the pic, to the right of the warning light panel) for a 2-1/16" gauge (pyro or boost). Does anyone know how to remove it without breaking anything? Or, if it doesn't come off, can I carefully use a hole saw in that area? Is there a couple inches...
1993 factory schematic. Although there are two fusible links, I'm not sure where they're fed from. At some point they must be two separate wires since the fusible links are separate. But they do join to make one large (red) cable going to the GP controller.
So you don't have a soft pedal that goes to the floor, but a very hard pedal with weak braking?
That's not likely to be rubber components leaking - check out the power brake booster. Also the drums and shoes could be completely glazed and rusted... please don't drive it any more until you are...
Check the transmission fluid too... if it's black and smells burnt, it's time for a rebuild. May just be low, need a filter change, or both.
I wonder if the guy put ATF in the master cylinder in a half-assed attempt to "condition" (swell) a leaking seal someplace...
Hm. Food for thought.
Once I get the factory turbo installed on my NA 7.3, I'll put a fuel pressure gauge on, and see what my Facet 40285 is really doing! It feels like an 8500 lb (loaded) truck with 185 hp ought to, and the fuel pressure warning light doesn't come on at WOT. But a gauge will...
Finished the turbo CDR plate (welded a 1" hose barb to it, and repainted). Naturally, today I found one on ebay. Listed as a "turbo CDR nipple". :rolleyes:
Bought that too as a backup for my homemade version.
Ok, thanks Wes. So if a stock mech pump only maintains 1-3 psi, and IPs are set up for 5-6.5 psi, what effect does that have on timing and performance?
Do the Holley pumps (noisy little coffee-grinders!) hold up with diesel fuel?
What's outdated about Mel's actual test numbers? :dunno And sn't the DB-2 the same pump is was 30 years ago? Please clarify which parts are wrong. thanks.
You're only supposed to have 5 psi at the filter head, not 8-9...
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/official-test-results-of-fuel-inlet-presure-timing.34636/
How does a stock mechanical pump perform? Does it maintain 5 psi regardless of fuel demand?
That's interesting... the manufacturer's catalog (Purolator) says -40 to +180F operating temp range. https://www.facet-purolator.com/wp-content/themes/twentysixteen/catalogpdf.pdf
I still wonder if even with anti-gel, the fuel is thickening at -15F (beginning wax formation but not completely...
Do not put an electric pump inline. If it's before the mechanical, and if (when) the mechanical pump's diaphragm cracks, the electric will fill your crankcase with diesel...
And if you put it after, the mechanical when defective will be an unnecessary restriction at best, or an air intrusion at...
Thanks, that's OK... I may just take mine off to measure it. (I fabricated the missing plate that captures the grommet between the CDR and the turbo valve cover bracket, but not sure how big to make the center hole).
Edit: found a good picture of the underside here...
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