This reminds me of an experience I had 30 years ago in Dayton... there was a diesel shop near me who was supposed to be an authorized Bosch service center. So I sent them the pump from my Mercedes diesel for calibration. I put it back on the engine - and the idle was totally unstable, revving up...
My air intake (after installing a factory turbo setup) is also a piece of 4" metal dryer hose, open on the end. Unfortunately I too have found that it's a packrat highway (boost disappearing, more smoke, and filter restriction tell-tale pegged!). I need to clamp a piece of hardware cloth (like a...
If you want to feel better about yourself check out People of Walmart cookoo
Today I replaced the missing trim clips on the two strips either side of the steering column. Now they don't fall off every time I hit a bump ;)
Also filled it up with diesel at "only" $3.39 a gallon...
This piece of common "knowledge" is completely false. Unless the basic laws of thermodynamics have changed! Heat transfer is driven by temperature difference - and if there is less temp difference it is made up for by the greater volume. Time is not in the equation.
I am sure that Wes reported...
Good to know thanks! Grounding that wire didn't make anything buzz, so perhaps the buzzer has been removed too. Or does it have 12V applied to it from the switch (wouldn't think it'd be black though)...
Anyway I don't need it. I know where my keys are ;)
While pulling my steering wheel to get to the turn signal/flasher switch, I came across this dangling part. (the single black wire, just to the left of the dangling keys). I think it's supposed to attach to the ignition switch (perhaps to trigger a buzzer)? Anyway, everything works since I put...
It probably isn't... yet. But when will it ever be easier to replace? And think about what you'd have to do over again to replace it in a few years. Or days...
Today I was determined to find out why my hazard flashers didn't work. Fuse intact, flasher itself working properly. But no continuity at the load side of the flasher.
So I pulled the steering wheel and column cover to have access to the combination turn signal/flasher switch. After dismounting...
Got it :sly I tried that once but had rumbling noise above 35 mph even while in 2H. Figure I probably need a couple of front driveshaft U-joints, but keep putting it off because there's always something more important to fix, and when I'm on really slippery surfaces I'm not going that fast...
How does that help? The front driveshaft is still freewheeling unless the case is in 4H or 4L.
I did drive my truck home once when the rear driveshaft fell off... locked the hubs, case in 4H, power to front wheels :)
Rather than replace the crank, how about filling the groove with JB Weld, just level with the surface, then installing the speedi-sleeve? :dunno That way there is a hard support behind the thin sleeve. I think I'd try it before replacing the crank!
Bought a replacement hazard flasher, reached behind the fusebox and plugged it in (I think. Hard to tell exactly where the socket terminals are!)
Still no flashers. Fuse is good. Hope it's not the combination switch, that looks like fun to get to... raining all day, won't be today.
Drove to town today for some oil and filter for one of my cars... the mud on the dirt road was nearly as treacherous as yesterday morning's glare ice! It rained a lot, and temp up to 50F, so there's a goopy layer on top of hard-frozen dirt. Anyway it was ok in 2WD.
But now I notice that the turn...
I waited a couple more hours of 44F temps, and when I saw the mail lady flying by in her small pickup, I walked over for one more try. Pulled into the middle of the road - and backed straight up the rise to the next driveway without even spinning a tire. 3 pt. turn and drove the few hundred...
Today I tried to take the trash out (drop location is 1/4 mile from my driveway)... Sunday night and Monday morning we had freezing rain. Temp above freezing since Mon. afternoon, and up to 40F now, so I put the trash in the bed and headed out. The driveway was perfectly clear, just wet.
But the...
I heat my house with wood (and propane as backup). The wood blocks come from a sawmill 7 miles away for $35 a ton. They used to fill my IDI or even my F-350 flatbed for $50 (sort of still counts as a "pickup load") until they figured out they could make more money scaling it. So my cost for 2.5...
More likely it fatigue-cracked there, and was repaired by welding the cracks. My truck has a more hacked repair by a previous owner, with short pieces of angle iron welded over those areas.
A little oxidation, dirt, or varying pressure on the contact can make that kind of difference in the reading. Without a good four-wire ohmmeter it's hard to measure accurately in the tenths of ohms.
You could hook each one up for just a couple of seconds to the batteries and see how long it...
Maybe... although the alternative was to enforce the prenup that would have cost a lot more for lawyers AND had me paying alimony indefinitely. Both houses were paid off, so although the expense was front-loaded, I was immediately free and for good ;) I'd have rather had the bigger acreage with...
Good work. The MPS-A63 is an inexpensive Darlington transistor (provides gain in the 5K to 10K range, to buffer the tiny leakage current from the probe touching any contaminants & water in the fuel). It costs about 50 cents :)
I once fixed a $50 fuel pump relay by taking the case off and...
no big deal. We split 15 years ago and don't shoot at each other. :sly She got the small house in the middle of 120 acres of woods, and I have the big one with shop on 56 acres of woods. Houses are close to half a mile apart through the trees and we rarely contact each other.
The IDI fired right up... missed a couple of cylinders for the first revolution or two, then ran just like always ;Sweet
The 2.5 miles of dirt roads aren't cleared so I locked the front hubs, selected 4H and didn't miss a beat driving out to the paved two-lane. Got out, unlocked, case back in...
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