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  1. C

    Aluminum radiator upgrade

    Keep the box. You will need it to send it back under warranty. I put 3 in my truck in about 8 years. No electrolysis,grounds good. Fresh coolant with distilled water every year and they still leak. I have the 4th warranty one in my garage,brand new and wrapped up.
  2. C

    Radiator fitting for E40D

    Not needed. But if you really want one you could build one very easily.
  3. C

    1993 E4OD flex plate/ crank shaft spacer

    The idi is loosely based on the IHC 266,394,345 and 392. Those also have only 9 bolts with an empty spot
  4. C

    6.9L - Fatal Crack

    That's common on the GM ones. At least you found it now and not 2 weeks after rebuilding it
  5. C

    Burn at yellow wires of big connector.

    Very common. Ford used small connectors there. Can't take the load.
  6. C

    New Clutch Doesn't Work *NEW ISSUE*

    Many years ago the clutch slave on mine sprung a leak. I bought a new one and put it on. I pumped,bled till I was blue in the face. Could not get any pedal. I threw in the towel and called a friend. He showed up with a new clutch master. That fixed it. I guess I could not see the forest for the...
  7. C

    Worried about my 7.3 IDIT's health

    Don't fret just yet. Blackstone has been known to goof up a sample ocasionally. Have then rerun it.
  8. C

    I Need Piston Rings

    Right now we all are in a parts problem. Not just idi stuff..040 is an unusual over bore size. Might have to go .060?
  9. C

    Stella, the 6.9, needs a/c

    Please replace the accumulator with one that is compatible with r134a and put in a smaller orifice tube.
  10. C

    tires for sand

    I grew up and still live in the sandy desert.15psi as long as you don't have 16.5 wheels
  11. C

    Pulled Rad. Got access

    The core can get rotten and not ridable. But that $2400 price had better be for 2 recored rads!
  12. C

    Not to beat a dead horse..

    Buy the new one. Not the rebuilt.
  13. C

    RABS valve bypass. A completely different take.

    When mine went bad I lost all rear brakes. Kinda important.
  14. C

    Pre Lubing a rebuild

    This is how we were taught in automotive skool.Fill a clean bug sprayer with oil. Pressurize it and squirt the oil in through the oil pressure sender hole.
  15. C

    Synthetic oil as fuel?

    The rotary Mazdas use engine oil to lube the apex seals. They specifically say not to use synthetic oil in them. I do not know how that would corrodinate to our antique diesels. Wouldn't gear oil stink as a fuel?
  16. C

    Finding an engine stand for an IDI, not easy

    My old HF one held up a fully dressed 392 international with no trouble
  17. C

    Should I replace alternator bearings?

    Napa's rebuilds have gone way down hill. So bad that we stopped using them.
  18. C

    New engine, No power

    Shouldn't the timing be advanced?
  19. C

    AC thread - orifice tubes

    Assuming that he still has the truck 12 year later
  20. C

    86 6.9l water pump

    A big pair of channelocks or a hammer and chisel will get the clutch off. You likely need a new one anyway. Usually the aftermarket water pumps come with 2 bolts. Those go in the top 2 holes.
  21. C

    Where to find drive shaft parts?

    Local drive line shop
  22. C

    Has anyone converted their R12 AC to 134a?

    Really need to replace the r12 accumulator too. The r134a will cause the dessicant bag to break and dump all the dessicant into the system.
  23. C

    Has anyone converted their R12 AC to 134a?

    As for the oil amount. Add 3.5 oz of oil per pound or r134a. My truck holds 2.75 lbs or r134a. That equals 9.6 oz of oil. I error on the cautious side and put in 10 oz.
  24. C

    Oil filter and wrenches??

    When you install the new one oil the gasket. Put it on then back it off just enough to relax the gasket.
  25. C

    Look what Gale just posted!!!

    No specs? No sound of the truck going down the road and they should fix the glow plugs properly. Lame!

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