@Agnem you could ask him directly which pump.
If the supplier of your injectors rhymes with Pensacola, you might have a leaker. You would need to get them pop tested to see. Maybe there is a local shop that can test them for you. If not, I'd contact @Thewespaul , @Agnem or @typ4 about...
How many relays behind the battery?
Is there a relay with a small purple wire on the small post and two large orange wires heading toward the engine? If so, 6.9.
If the controller is mounted on the engine, it is a later model controller. It will have a relay on it. One side of it will have...
Selahdoor has a 7.3 controller. Unless your controller has been upgraded, it is different. It has a timer and a water temp switch in the controller. I'm pretty sure is dumb and doesn't know if anything is hooked up to it.
I would say that your controller is going out. If it decides to stick...
You're halfway setup for group 31 batteries. Will they fit your body style? They're inexpensive at the local truck big rig repair places. Do you have lug ends on the passenger side too?
Your VRV hoses go in that metal tab off the front pass side of the air cleaner.
Check the rag joint near...
They are opposite the fat orange ones for the glow plugs? They are red with white and white with red looking at my truck. I'm sorry I'm not in a place I can trace them.
@franklin2 always has some wiring diagrams. Any idea on those? It sucks Ford breaks them down by system instead of location.
If you want to be technical, that's a drag link. Guys at the parts store might try to give you the wrong parts.
That seems to be a problematic design. Any change in static spring height and your steering wheel is off center. I think you're out of luck unless your steering wheel is a tooth...
You can wire the solenoid that way. Be sure you remove the ground to the small post. You could also run power from the cab to the relay via a switch and hook where the purple wire is on the relay. I don't think there is anything else controlled by the controller so it can be disconnected. If...
I'd be interested in how often these controllers fail on. I read a lot of "they're known for failing....". I don't recall reading, "MY controller failed in the on position...."
Probably should be a new thread but I'm lazy.
Thanks for the update. Let us know how you plan to wire the led on that switch. Lots of options. I'm interested in how bright it is at night. I'd like one that is easy to find but unobtrusive when not looking for it.
Nick,
The controller on a 6.9 is screwed into the back of the drivers head. @Cubey posted a good pic here from his van. https://www.oilburners.net/threads/6-9-engine-harness-meltdown-85-e350-really-bad-situation.86992/page-2#post-1045024
When the controller goes bad, it can stick on and the...
Test the black to ground. It should go on one small post. Test the purple for power with key on that shuts off after about 10 seconds. It's trigger from the controller.
Ignore the yellow wires in this pic. The two big orange are feed to the GPs.
Wait. What? What is this voodoo? Do you just mean you prefer not burning your hands on a fully warmed up engine or are running at 2000 RPMs right after starting it and setting the timing then? Details please.
Wouldn't cold timing effect the transfer pressure in the IP? I assume it's all...
Clean the timing tab and the mark on your harmonic balancer it says "0" at 11 o'clock and go from there. There's a post here with which cylinders are 11, 2, 5 and 8 o'clock. 1 and 4 should be 11 o'clock. Then follow the firing order as you go around.
TDC on compressions stroke doesn't matter...
Haha. I was replying to two posts. One regarding the duty cycle and separate the one with the pretty graph. I'm more interested in the amps at .5 seconds. 1
,000 amps at 1 volt doesn't mean much to me. Still looks higher than the 25 per stick I was guessing.
Why can't you have a small enough leak on the supply side of the fuel pump to suck air but not leak fuel? Placing a check valve in that line is going to lower the flow available for the mechanical pump.
Put a clear line on the return to the filter head and look for bubbles. Then plumb from a...
I think he makes a valid point. But I wouldn't believe that 5 sec 50 min duty cycle. It's a function of how hot the coil gets and then cools off. No way it's going to take 50 min to dissipate the heat from 5 seconds of use unless it's a machined asbestos case. I think it should be 5 min 50 min...
I asked my wife what she got me for Christmas and got a fight or flight stare. I handed her a box and she wrapped it. So nice of her to get me a new winch contactor for my truck.
Went from this:
To this:
I replaced an old switch in my parents house. Ooooooold switch. It was three switches bussed together. Pretty neat. Light needed to work. Fan and heater don't work. Dad told me to cap those wires. He's earned the silent nod and the two wire nuts I wasted.
Here's some warn solenoid trickery...
You done yet?
I think you will need to move the wts light if that's important. But if I read the wire changes correctly, the lighted when pressed switch you're going to use serves the same function.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.