Yup. Our trucks have to get really ragged before we part them out.
http://merced.craigslist.org/pts/4091192021.html
Hmmmm. Can I swap my bricknose front end onto an OBS?
That guy Agnem up there. He is Conestoga Diesel. I would contact him for a rebuilt pump and injectors. He'll get you a matched set of injectors instead of 8 with random pop pressures. And he'll do it cheaper http://conestogadiesel.com/products.html His pumps are also highly regarded on this...
So do it right. Then you have zero chance of damaging the engine. Actually, you don't have much chance of damaging the engine doing it wrong. You will just get the pump out of time and then it is a PITA to fix that. This forum will walk you through the entire procedure.
What year is this...
What color are the pump and injectors? If they are painted the same color as the engine, they are way beyond their expected service life. The first thing I would do is change the fuel filter. Warm engine up. Fill the new filter with ATF through the outer holes and install it. Restart truck...
Great picture of a great looking truck. How did you factor your fuel mileage? Canada has 4.5 liter gallons; Alaska has 3.8 liter gallons. Where's the ubiquitous picture of it covered with the famous road dust from the Alaskan highway?
Those must be the new turbo stamps from the post office.
Last I read, he thought something got screwed up when he did his cam swap. What was the outcome on that?
If you ask the smog nazis, that's kind of the point ;) The (un)intended consequence is you now need $60k+ to get one vehicle to start a business. It is like our State wants to suck. Sorry this is way OT but people don't realize these smog nazis have no oversight and they're too busy trying to...
You have 8 1-2 ohm resistors in parallel that are your glow plugs. That is 1/8 to 1/4 ohm resistance with all 8 plugs functioning. E=IR, I=E/R I= 12/.25 = 48 Amps. 48Amps x 12 volts = 576 watts if they are all 2 ohm. If they are all 1 ohm, that's 1100+ watts. That's a pretty big resistor...
Towcat, Correct me if I'm wrong. "Clean" is debatable. That truck isn't registerable (or shortly it won't be) in Ca because of engine year and GCWR. When it's sold, the seller has to disclose that information to the buyer.
You are going to have to order a valley pan if you are replacing it. It doesn't come in the HG set. TahoeTom posted a picture of some ports that are not needed that he had plugged. They are directly below the hump at each glow plug well. I think I will go that route if I have to get head...
It seems to me the price ended up being twice as what was thought and no one wanted to belly up to the bar. They couldn't find an off the shelf casting to use. But my recollection is vague.
Can't you take a glow plug, knock the end off, drill it out and weld it into a standard air adapter? Isn't that what the leak down testers use?
There has to be some guys on here with a bad compression tester laying around. I've seen enough posts talking about breaking cheap ones.
Please do let me know how it goes. I'm thinking about getting the heads done. I found a guy that has a pair of 6.9s that he said came off an IH replacement motor he blew the bottom end at 10k miles in his tow truck. He never called me back so I'm still looking.
If you need a compression...
Your oil cooler isn't going to cavitate. Cavitation requires an impulse from the cylinder wall that creates a microbubble that collapses in a tiny little sonic boom and puts a microscopic pit in the outside of the cylinder wall. That isn't going to happen in the oil cooler. So clean it out...
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