Doing all of that , which I suspected to be done right sounds like going to add up to some coin. New turbo pistons might not be so expensive after all.
Why would want to do this? If I remember right the turbo pin is roughly around a .100 larger which would make for a very thick bushing, easy to pound out more. The turbo piston is a lot stronger and better design. Personally I would not do it.
Lots of stuff to change over doing that, can be done, but work and money. Those vans had diesels in them to back could not find a donor to work with for parts.
You could crank, not start a few revs,messy but dirt would pump out with the pressure build up. actually would be best to not push that dirt into the new sender.
Personally I would never use the white Lubriplate lube/grease. Growing up working in my dads machine shop we built a lot of engines, my dad was very adamant about not using the grease. Reason- if by some chance you happen to get any grit in it you don't see it while spreading it on , where as...
It is safe and standard to just reuse what you have, when honing the cylinders you want to clean them un tell nothing shows on your cleaning towel. Also when putting back together I prefer to use a assembly lube and not a grease on the bearing.
You do realize that when installing new bushing a machine shop will have to size them to the pins. I would take the rods to a machine shop and have the check both ends of the rods to see if they are out of specs before just spending the money on new.
Other then doing a side by side comparison of the drive lines, just make sure the rear end is sitting on the ground if measuring for the drivelines in the truck, makes a big difference.
Yes I would get the ZF5 drive line if you can, but may still have to have it sized which is no big problem . Just have to get things together and take measurements, made sure the rear wheel are on the ground though.
Need to make sure to only use a Motorcraft or OEM style one. All I use and have never had a problem with things sealing up , and the large rubber seal around the themostat needs to be there.
A guy close by me did a 51 Ford pickup , but put it on a Dodge frame with the Cummins, Came out pretty nice but was a lot of work. If was me think I would put the 49 stuff on a newer frame.
You need to check and make sure the end is nice and round, if so install them with the copper up . If they are pointed need to install new ones as they will not allow the rocker arms and valves to be oiled correctly. You can also check this by placing the push rod into the rocker arm and blow...
The mid-tank the sending can be worked on without dropping the tank pretty easy, back drop or lift box.
https://www.gastankdepot.com/ford-gas-tank-sending-units.html
I have bought sending unit from this place , not bad price and they are oem style.
Also depending what you use for a turbo setup you might want to increase the oil sending port from 1/8 to 1/4 " pipe thread. which is what a IDIT would have. Or better yet just find turbo block they are a stronger block , heavier main webs , cyl are better to I believe.
This is why in my 93 dually I had to rebuild the transmission to a wide ratio. was always slipping the clutch in low and reverse when loaded heavy. Now just let the clutch out and it goes.
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