Hello experts,
1986 F250, 6.9 IDI, mostly factory config.
Got sudden no start condition which I diagnosed to likely shut off valve issue (my steps are below if you want long reading).
Without removing IP lid - there is 12 V on solenoid when key is on. Solenoid the resistance is about 4 Ohms...
Hi,
I was reading this thread as a review for portable jump starting options. One thing though is not making ends meet in my understanding about this and other similar portable boxes. The diameter of their cables seems too small for the current advertised.
This Jump-n-Carry above has cables...
Interesting, strangely my truck never had it in my ownership. So it is a factory hose bracket, makes sense.
And speaking of alternator tensioner, is there a tool perhaps to set alternator belt tension? Power steering pump and vacuum pump have square holes for a lever to use to set their belt...
thank you for the explanation. Certainly I'll drain coolant.
Ouch. I didn't expect that much work to get access to the block heater. Last time I tried to remove starter was 20 years ago and I recall it was very hard to access one of the bolts, nearly impossible to reach even with a swivel...
Hi, looks like my block heater developed a leak. Tightening the bolt in its center doesn't help.
Not a good thing for me. I can see the block heater plug from under the truck, but my hands cannot get to it at all. How's can block heater accessed ? Seems that you all here are knowledgeable.
Thanks
Thanks! Interesting - the video points to aluminum pedal assembly problem. I thought it could be a growing crack, while in video the issue is of different root cause. You circled it right on the spot. It could be my issue. Either way .... removal (and possibly replacement) of pedal assembly will...
Thanks for the reminder on details of clutch arm. I own this truck for a very long time and believe that the clutch pedal assembly is factory original, hence the nut you describe is likely tightened at Ford factory in 1985.
What may give a clue to an expert - the issue I describe appeared very...
OK good to know. That improper align of the swingarm you described - can it only occur when disassembling then assembling incorrectly? Or could it happen as natural wear progresses or corrosion makes it jump one or multiple splines?
Yes clutch hydraulics is good state. Both clutch master and slave cylinders are new and so is the hose. All was checked by Tony at Kirkland Transmission whom I trust.
I checked that and there is plastic bushing which is not worn. There is very little end play in that connection. Clutch pedal feels also without any slop. I am still considering return spring fatigue or cracked aluminum pedal housing. Either one would be a lot of work to disassemble for...
My 86 F250 has a similar problem - clutch pedal return is weak. If foot is taken off the clutch pedal will return but hesitates a bit and at times may sit pressed for a fraction of a second. However, unlike your situation, all my pedal hw is factory original.
May seem that aluminum pedal...
exactly that - I put last time (long time ago, > 10 years) ordinary gear oil into rear and front differentials. Now your information suggests that it was not quite right, do I need to put special gear oil for limited slip differential in rear
Thank you ! Very useful resource. I was able to identify my truck rear diff from its tag. Less luck for the front diff though, tag rusted beyond clear reading. Is there similar resource for older front diff tag info ?
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