So are you guys saying the 2wd f150 drop brackets might fit? I know the 4wd 250 won't; they specifically said they won't and I tried anyway...because how would a solid axle 4wd even have I beams to drop; the whole thing is silly.
My 3rd printer was $200, it'll print 8"x8"x11", but even with 100% infill I doubt it would support the thousands of pounds, especially at a velocity.
I know I ordered 92 f250 4x4 drop brackets that mount under the engine and the ibeams mount to the brackets, but they just didn't line up, holes...
1992 f250 idi, 2wd...
So the front you can only get 2 or 3" before your steering knuckle starts pinching, even with new camber bushings... So you've got to drop the ibeams to keep lifting, but I can't find any drop brackets for the 2wd.
I ordered some 4wd brackets from eBay but they didnt fit...
I do have an air pocket in my clear IP to front drivers return; bout a half inch bubble. It will go forward or backward but never come out...I'm going to just leave my epump on for a few hours see if it'll fix itself I guess. When I swapped the FSS it took a minute or two to mostly fill the...
New filter full of tranny fluid, new FSS and IP full of trans fluid... It ran good for about a minute then got lopey and started dying again. Filter doesn't get air in it anymore, no visible leaks but I just don't trust any return fittings now.
Maybe oring/gasket on the IP cover..or IP auto...
FSS has to be it...arrives by 10pm. What's the other electronic component in there, that lets fuel out into the returns...it's probably going to go next ey?. If I pull the cover and reinstall; that's the longest the truck will run. I think once the FSS gets fuel inside it's piston it can't...
How does the fuel shut off solenoid work? Hot is fuel on or hot is fuel off? I took it out a minute and hotwired it 20 or 30 clicks, a couple of the first hotwires only partially retracted the piston/hook... I'm suspecting that the piston seal in the shut off is bad; so when my IP gets 3psi of...
Fuel filter light came on; a mile later I died driving on front tank; probably out of fuel...switched to rear; used schrader to purge air; no start...must've got air into the IP and hardlines. Turn on the epump, crack lines, got it bled plenty...got back in to crank but batteries to dead to...
That $30 pump was junk out the box; gotta be within 7ft of the tank..... It's a super cab long bed dual tank truck... So I put it within 7ft and left my other epump up in the engine bay; still pumping partial air into the housing..
I guess I've officially narrowed it down to tank pickups or...
I don't know how to check that; if I plug my vacuum gauge into housing return I get 2 or 3 psi, can't even tell its such a small number. But for $30 I have a 4-7PSI diesel rated epump coming today maybe that'll do it.
I mean...the IP and Returns arent sucking fuel out of the filter; its...
It does the clicking when I pull the wires off it and on.
Using a stronger epump is an interesting idea; **** a fuel leak just add more fuel, I like your thinking.
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