zf5 swap no start

haubert

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93 f350 7.3 I installed a fresh rebuilt 7.3 while I was at it I swapped out the e4od tranny with a zf5, I installed a factory manual steering column, I don't have no neutral safety switch hooked up and I removed the e4od wiring harness from the truck, everything seems to work when I turn the key on but when I try to start nothing I can jump the solenoid and it will crank, my question is, is there wires in the old harness that needs jumped to send ignition current to solenoid, I jumped the solenoid just to build oil pressure in the motor, that was my main goal for tonight so I didn't get a chance to investigate the no ign signal. figured I would ask here maybe it will shorten my diagnostic time for tomorrow thanks
 

typ4

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Yes and I dont know which ones on an e40d truck
Someone will chime in.
Likely will be the same color as the trigger wire on relay
 

IDIoit

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gotta be in the connector to the column, auto's have them built in to the switch on the bottom of the column, or so i thought.
 

82F100SWB

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You need to jump the wires in the trans harness. The starter signal runs through the mlps on the E4OD. On manual trans trucks the transmission sub harness has the jumper built in.
The column has nothing to do with the gear position switch.
 

cpdenton

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Yes. There are wires in the old e4od wiring harness that need to be jumpered so you can get the start circuit to work.

In that wiring harness that goes down to the MLPS, (the gear selection switch on the e4od) you will find a white/pink wire that needs to be connected to a red/light blue wire.

Also, for your backup lamps, you will need to wire in the reverse switch on the zf to the pink/orange wire and the black/pink wire in the e4od harness.
 
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cpdenton

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You also already have the wiring connector for the clutch safety switch tucked up above the pedals. It has a gray jumper plugged in to it now. That gray jumper over rides the need for the switch.

Unplug the gray plastic jumper plugs in to it now and plug it into the clutch switch on the clutch master cylinder shaft...that simple.
 

junk

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When I first did my swap from e40d to manual I jumped the neutral safety switch down on the plug at the transmission.

Now when I removed the e40d wiring during the rebuild I don't remember what I did, but guess there was some wires at the firewall I had to jump to complete the starter circuit. On my 89 the wires are red with a green stripe if I remember correctly. My bet is you have a starter wire at the firewall that needs jumped to get it starting.

I have a haynes or chilton book with pretty decent wiring diagrams that I used when stripping the harness.

I would start tracing the solenoid wire at the fender mounted solenoid back to the firewall until you make it back to the switch or find a dead end.

Good luck will take some time, but not necessarily hard.
 

cpdenton

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The wires to jump up near the fender where you disconnected the whole harness should be both red/light blue.
 

LCAM-01XA

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You need to jump the wires in the trans harness. The starter signal runs through the mlps on the E4OD. On manual trans trucks the transmission sub harness has the jumper built in.
The column has nothing to do with the gear position switch.
This! Get yourself the harness from a ZF5 truck, doesn't matter if it's 4x4 or not (harness is the same), as long as it's the same body style as what you're working with. Plug in in the main body harness connector the E4OD wiring used to go in. That will solve both the starting issue and the lack of backup lights. On a 4x4 truck it will also bring your "4x4" and "low range" indicator lights back from the dead (since those wires are also part of the E4OD harness).

The connector under the column is for the neutral safety switch. Which on these trucks is one of Ford's "better" ideas, if one day your truck just randomly refuses to crank you can go ahead and mess with that switch (wiggle it and and twist it) and chances are that may actually fix it. If you don't want to ever have to deal with that mess, leave your E4OD jumper in place there, and toss the switch in the trash - just remember there is now nothing stopping the truck from starting while in gear. Ours have a big red LED on the dash wired together with the reverse lights, we have the habit of leaving our trucks in reverse and low range when parked - when you get in and turn the ignition on you are greeted by a bright red glow on the dash to remind you to take it out of reverse first. Been thinking of wiring that instead of the factory NSS, but ah well, got other more important projects first.
 

haubert

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Thanks cpdenton that will save me a lot of time I have all data but it's hard to find the correct diagrams
 

catbird7

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I hate electrical problems! This may sound like a stupid suggestion however since you had both the engine and trans out of the truck, did you happen to forget the ground straps from engine to truck frame & engine to body?
 

LCAM-01XA

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I hate electrical problems! This may sound like a stupid suggestion however since you had both the engine and trans out of the truck, did you happen to forget the ground straps from engine to truck frame & engine to body?
If he removed the E4OD harness entirely then no amount of ground-strapping will get the starter and the reverse lights back online. See on the E4OD trucks all the wires run together in one harness, it is fully possible to open said harness and separate them by function though:

- two light blue ones (one solid and one with a black stripe) will be going to the transfer case, even if truck is 2wd the wires are there but the round 4-pin connector (white in color IIRC) they terminate into is just capped off. Keep those for reusing in a 4x4 truck, or in case a 4x4 swap is planned in the future at some point.

- bunch of wires will be going to the passenger side of the E4OD, they are loomed together and lay on top of the transmission case - grab their connector and just pull the whole bundle out of the harness, they are for the solenoid pack and have no function in a ZF5 swap, discard them all. Should be a grey connector but just match its shape to that in the trans, as it's possible the MLPS connector on the driver side is also grey but will be different shape. You are removing all of the the passenger-side wires, not the driver-side ones.

- the MLPS connector on the driver side has 4 wires that you need - an "in" from the start switch (starts as red/lightblue at the jumper under the column, likely changes to white/pink inside the trans harness tho), an "out" to starter relay on the fender (red/lightblue all the way), and the two for the backup lights (pink/orange and black/pink). So connect the white white/pink and the red/lightblue wires together and that should give your start function back. Then the pink/orange and the black/pink wires should be extended and spliced into a connector for a manual transmission backup switch - Ford used the same connector on everything from the '70s 4-speeds all the way to the end of the OBS trucks, also said connector is available aftermarket as it's know to break after a while just from age and heat - so find one of in your local parts store or online, splice it into the E4OD wires, and you should have reverse lights again. Once you have all these wires sorted out, discard any others that are now dangling loose

This is all for the bricknose trucks as that is the EVTM we have right now, good chance it applies to the OBS trucks as well but do some wire tracing and proving just in case.

Additionally, if one is to remove the E4OD TCM entirely from their truck, or simply power it down by removing its relay, it is likely the tachometer on the dash will go dead. I can provide the fix for that (again you simply connect two wires together) later tonight as IIRC the colors were not quite what the manual suggest they should be so I'll need to double-check on that.
 

cpdenton

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Those wire colts are all the same for the OBS trucks too. I have a 92 EVTM. That is where all my info came from.

If any of you ever are having electrical gremlins....go get an EVTM, they are worth it!
 

Leeland

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Finally got around to trimming down the auto harness. Closed and looped the neutral safety circuit into the harness, all that comes out is the t-case and reverse light circuits. Terminated all the solenoid pack wiring just after the beginning of the original taping. Still needs sheathing and will trim the reverse light wires and add a connector to the trans. Was ghetto and just ran the mlps taped up previously.
Reverse lights
Purple/orange- fuse x
Black/pink to back up lights

Neutral safety circuit
White/pink
Red/light blue -looped together

Black-pcm ground.
Dunno how you "removed" the e4od harness but that's what I did my second time around. And auto trucks have the clutch switch connector with a jumper plug on them taped up on the dash harness if you want to actually run the clutch switch.
And just to be clear, I trimmed down a e4od harness out of my donor reg cab not the c6 harness my gasser crew cab had.
T-case not listed cause it's pretty obvious which connector that is.
 
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