Wont Start. Think its the Injector Pump?

[Pull-n-TugTx]

Had issues with the rear tank empty at 1/4, front tank running sluggish, and sputtering with fuel light on. Pulled the rear Sending Unit put on some fuel line for the shower head. Still had the same problem, that day! Noticed the tank was leaking at the Sending Unit seal Ring. Re-set with new ring and seal, Fixed. Couple of days later, it wouldnt start. Turn over, but no burn! Replaced the filter, had to jump the batteries, fired up and drove it home. Next day NO START!

Fulled the line of at the the filter. No fuel coming out. PUMP?! Replaced the pump and still won't start. Do have fuel coming out at filter. Pulled an outlet line from the Injector Pump, NO FUEL!

Am I headed in the right direction or am I missing something?? Also, pulling the IP. Do I pull the oil fill neck housing with it, or just take the 3 bolts from the inside on the gear inside?

Get a New pump, Re-built, or Rebuild the one I got?

All help greatly needed!!

 

[icanfixall]

Your really jumping ahead here. No reason to think the injection pump is shot yet. If you have replaced the manual lift pump and are getting fuel to the filter it will come out the injection pump side. Bleeding the trapped air from the injection pump and the injecter hard lines can be tuff. Just crack loose the hard lines at the injecter tops. Crank engine for no longer than 20 seconds at a time or you will burn up the starter. Let the starter cool for 3 to 5 minutes between cranking. Very little fuel will come out of the crack loose lines because the pump does not push much to make the engine run. Hold the throttle wide open so more fuel is pumped thru the system. I do this bleeding by jumping the fender solenoid and holding the throttle wide open. That way I can watch the fuel leaking out the injecter lines easier than sitting in the truck. The key must be turned to the run section.

 

[Pull-n-TugTx]

I did the solenoid bump looking for fuel on outlet to injector. Didnt have fuel there, but didnt let it crank for more than 5-10 seconds. Do I need to crank it more than that to get the air out?

 

[icanfixall]

About removing the injection pump. Simple instructions are remove the front oil fill or if you have the later gear cover just remove the diamond shaped cover with 2 bolts holding it to the cover. Then you will find three bolts with a 5/16 hex on them. Very few wrenches are made to fit those. So buy a 12 point socket. Probably only a 3/8 drive will be available. The torque on those three ting bolts is 25 lbs. Its important to torque those back down when your donw too. They will not break because they are special material just like the rear u joint bolts are. In fact those are the same exact bolts too. Now remove the three 9/16 nuts that holds the pump to the gear cover. Those may need some brackets removed for better access. I usually put a rag behind the pump at the intake air horn just incase I drop something in the valley pan. If the rag is not there the nuts or washers roll all the waqy back under no mans land. Then you need a magnet to "find them"... The hard lines can stay on the pump but the feed line from the filter must come off. So does the bracket the throttle cable connects to. Now slide the pump towards the firewall. Move the drive flange of the pump towards the passenger side fender and lift it out between the two studs on that side of the gear housing the pump was bolted to... Done. Kinda tricky but it works well. Never ever remove the aluminum housing that the injection pump bolts to. There is a large gear under that the same size as the cam gear. If that moves it will be hell to align the timing marks to the cam gear again...