Windshield washer switch is screwed up...I have some ideas, can they work?

Diesel JD

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Hey guys,
I think I just finished killing off my windshield washer switch (dash mount), what I would like to know is can I use a 3 position switch that will fit there to take it's place or is that a really bad idea. I'm not too worried about a stock look, I just need it to be functional is all. I think it's pretty ok internally but there is nothing there to support it and provide the resistance one needs to actuate the switch. Lots of prying and forcing got a couple more starts from it but I don't think this is a prudent and responsible way to be operating a vehicle. Any advice would be good and if someone has a wiring diagram around the switch that would be even better. Also does anyone know if this part and wiring are the same between 80-86 and 87-91? I have more detailed diagrams for 87+ and it might come in handy in case I decide to stick with the stock part. Thanks again,
JD
 

The Warden

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FWIW the stock switch isn't that expensive; $25 for a switch without intermittent wipers and $40 for a switch with intermittent wipers...life would be considerably easier to just throw another stock switch in there, and AFAIK there aren't really any inherent problems with it.

I don't know about the wiring harness, but the switches have identical part numbers between '84 and '91 according to Autozone's site...
 

Diesel JD

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Yeah see that's the thing though, it's just a concern about how that switch is retained. That seems like it may even be the problem rather than the witch itself. My wipers are non intermittent. Do you know what's supposed to hold that switch assy in there so that it stays where it is and the knob turns it?
 

93fordturbo

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On the light switch, there is a little nut that holds on the assy to the one side. On the assy a bolt will stick through so a nut can attach. Maybe im not talking about the same thing, but thats the way it is with the light assy switch
 

Diesel JD

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Have to get down the manual and see if it breaks it down that far. I can't remember how long ago it was that I worked on this before. Still pretty recently, but I don't remember what all was supposed to be there and if I got everything in that was supposed to be there or not. It's worked relatively well these last 2-3 years though.
 

oldblue05

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Are you sure it's the switch? My washer motor has gone out a few times but the switch never had issues... all you have to do to check it is pull the plug on the motor and check for 12 volts when you hit the button
 

Diesel JD

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No dude the motor is fine. I cannot get the switch to physically turn...and when I can get it turned on it's damn near impossible to shut off.
 

Diesel JD

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I was only thinking outside the box in terms of ease of the next replacement...I'm not so far up against it that a switch would break me...that or I'm wondering if my retaining structure is missing or broken and the stock system just won't work without some additional help....it might still be a better plan to fix it.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Put the washers on a plain old push-button, independent of the wiper-switch.

My factory washers quit so many years ago that I can barely even envision what they looked like.

I bought one of those five-dollar generic washer-pumps in about 1987 and it is still going strong; so is my home-made washer-jug. ;Sweet


It's just another of the many aftermarket fixes that has far outlasted the original Ford stuff. ;Sweet
 

rhkcommander

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Wouldn't be hard to do a 3-pos switch with some resistors in line. Not sure the resistance but it wouldn't be hard looking it up
 

Diesel JD

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Are resistors how the factory switch works or does it actually have separate wiring for the high and low positions? Been too long once again.
 

typ4

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IS the switch loose in the dash? Is that the problem, it has a nut holding it and a little tang, if it is so stiff that it broke the tang, get a new/used one and try it, fits all the way back to 75 ish IIRC. And they are not resistor controlled.

These switches last for many years so I wouldnt screw with a mod. and try and find a good toggle switch these days, one that will last will be more than a stocker.
 

rhkcommander

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Are resistors how the factory switch works or does it actually have separate wiring for the high and low positions? Been too long once again.

Probably a rheostat for the delay, and resistance in the single-modes... but thats my SWAG :rotflmao I haven't tore one apart. Easy way to tell for sure is check the wiper motor - two wires (one pos one neg) would indicate that the switch varies resistance. And multiple wires would suggest the motor does it, but I'm pretty sure (99%)the switch does vary it - especially from reports that the delay'able switch is plug and play. Just my hypothesisLOL

It would be easiest to probably just switch in a new one, but nothing wrong with modding the system either :dunno;Sweet
 

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