while running, wait to start light comes on, then truck stalls???

[smooth]

Okay, so recently, my wait to start light wasn't coming on when I turned the key to the on position. Truck would crank all day but wouldn't fire. I assumed it was the glow plug relay, and I had a spare, so instead of testing anything, I just swapped them out and that solved the problem. Wait to start light comes on and starts right up.
Now, while driving, the wait to start light has come on intermittently and sometimes the truck stalls. It's almost as if the key was turned off and then back on again quickly, but the wait to start light came on before the stall.
It's a 92 truck with a 94 non-turbo engine out of a van, swapped over all of the truck parts needed for the swap, and put on an old Bank's turbo. I should also mention, as I'm wondering if this is the culprit, but the previous owner had told me someone had tried to steal the tuck and they messed up the key cylinder. It's like the outer part (the two tabs on either side of the key which rotate with the key) is turning separate from the inner parts, if that makes any sense.
So, anyone have any idea what could be the problem. Like I said, I'm wondering if something dealing with the ignition system at the column has sh*t the bed.

Please help!

MoMo

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Replace the ignition key lock-tumbler-thing, it's only like $12 at AutoZone - it may not fix the problem, but at least you'll have a piece of mind.

 

[BioFarmer93]

What LCAM said.. And if that doesn't fix it then pull the dash pieces off so you can drop your steering wheel down and replace the "real" switch on the column. I've been saying I'm gonna get around to that for two months now due to Henry shutting off at the most inopertune times out of the clear blue. Usually I just reach up real quick and put a little forward pressure on the key, like I'm going to start the engine and thats all it takes, but it's getting to be a pain, and he shut off on me three times this morning on the way to work. I already replaced the key switch, so this evening I'm gonna do the second half of the job- Good luck

-LCAM- It's 'peace' of mind... The way you spelled it would be used to describe "giving someone a piece of my mind" or brain chunks-

 

[jim x 3]

due to Henry shutting off at the most inopertune times out of the clear blue. Usually I just reach up real quick and put a little forward pressure on the key, like I'm going to start the engine and thats all it takes,

BF: You can probably fix this by merely adjusting the position of the ignition switch. It has slots where it affixes to the column and can be moved up/down the column so that its in proper register with the key cylinder. The switch is well down the column (forward) and connected to the key cylinder via a rod. You need to move your switch up the column, slightly closer to the key cylinder. Make sure that ACC LOCK OFF ON START all work properly after adjustment.

Regards,

 

[BioFarmer93]

Hey Jim, yeah I did that already and thought I had it just right, but it's still doing it. Since I had already purchased the switch as a "just in case' CYA kind of thing I'm going to install it and see if it still does it... If it does I'm just going to build a little bracket that fits over the finger grips on the switch and hang a cantilevered weight on it to maintain contact! (just kidding) but it does have the effect of making me THAT frustrated with it.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

-LCAM- It's 'peace' of mind... The way you spelled it would be used to describe "giving someone a piece of my mind" or brain chunks-

Lol, darn, you're right - guess that's what you get with a sticky keyboard and Firefox auto-correcting things on the fly... You should see some of the other crazy stuff I've caught the ghost in my machine typing

 

[Sycostang67]

My truck had the outer piece of the lock cylinder rotate independently when I got it. It never caused the truck to shut off but it did make the truck think the key was always in the cylinder. I couldn't get the dang chime to stop going off until I finagled it around to the sweet spot.

 

[smooth]

So I replaced the cylinder and it did it again. It definitely loses power to the glow plug controller AND the injector pump.
So, other than the ignition switch on the column, what, electrically, goes to both the glow plug controller and the IP?

Thanks,

MoMo

 

[LCAM-01XA]

To my knowledge nothing, and IIRC they ain't even on the same circuit - IP is on the ignition circuit, the GP controller is on the ACC1 circuit. I may be wrong tho, with both of them being on the ignition circuit, but either way there's nothing between the ignition switch and the engine, other than wiring and that big round firewall connector thing - maybe wires got chewed up on something and intermittently touch ground and kill the truck? You definitely have issues with both wires tho, it ain't just one or the other, so I'm thinking maybe the problem is one and the same? I'd start at the glowplugs controller and trace its power wire towards the cab (cause the IP wiring is a mess to sort out, and you don't wanna be opening up harnesses that work just fine now), with some luck you'll see where it's damaged and the other wire may be messed up at the same place too.