Where to go from here.

thx997303

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Alright, I've got a pyro that reads from the crossover pipe just below the flange of the driver side manifold, I've got a mechanical boost gauge attached at the intake hat. Gauges are covered.

Truck is timed to 8.4* using a kent moore meter and the pulse method thanks to JohnZ.

Unloaded, WOT, uphill getting on the freeway, my EGTs reach about 850-900 and will slowly go to 1k if I keep my foot in it over the speed limit. Stays about 500* cruising at approximately 65. Idles at about 250*. Truck gets 14 to 15 mpg now. Mixed driving.

Boost usually hangs around 5-6 psi cruising, I have hit 8 psi, but that's all.

So, I'm thinking I want to get boost to 10 psi. Maybe 12, but 10 would most likely be good.

My next step is likely to test things loaded. Whenever it can be arranged.

Assuming none of this changes, where should I go from here? IP turned up? Wastegate rod?
 

thx997303

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Intercooler? Man that costs money LOL.

That will probably happen down the road. Annoyingly, I have to replace the upper radiator hose first. Turns out it's leaking, but only when the engine cools from being hot, and it evaporates off, leaving with no indicator until I watched the engine cool last night. Pain in the butt, like watching paint dry.

But, once that's fixed, do I have it in the right order? Ip, then wastegate?
 

idiabuse

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no intercooler, no more boost, engines with scored pistons and cylinder walls cost more than any intercooler you choose, Ask me how I know...


Javier
 

thx997303

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Are you saying that I can't run 10-12 psi of boost without damaging my engine? I would think the head bolts would give before damaging my pistons, but I'm new at this.
 

lindstromjd

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Biggest thing about intercoolers is the lowered egt's. I think if it were me, I'd go waste gate, then pump, then IC, then pump again if your egt's allow it.

Your engine should be just fine with 10 lbs of boost.
 

icanfixall

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Biggest thing about intercoolers is the lowered egt's. I think if it were me, I'd go waste gate, then pump, then IC, then pump again if your egt's allow it.

Your engine should be just fine with 10 lbs of boost.

I agree with this completely. Do the easy first. An intercooler is not expensive thru the place Mel got his for ther Moose Truck. Ask around. They are asn ebay seller and not far from me either.
 

thx997303

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Ok, so you guys are saying to adjust the wastegate first? Then adjust the IP?

When adjusting the wastegate, I'm going to assume that it hasn't been adjusted yet. So I need to disconnect it from the actuator, and hold the rod in place, then turn the nut? I wish I had pictures LOL.
 

thx997303

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Towed a 1800 lb trailer and a 2100 lb ish samurai a good 100 miles today. Not a horribly heavy load, but a load. Hit 8.5 psi of boost when the wastegate opened going up a grade. EGTs were good, probably 400-600 * at 65 on flat ground. Usually only went above 800 or 900 if I really pushed it, and dropping out of overdrive cooled them well.

It seems like the truck can make more boost as is, so wastegate first it is.
 

mariner45

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Just some info on my truck.
My turbo is a non-wastegated and I don't as high as exhaust temperatures as you do. What are the temperatures like during the fall and winter ?
I have my injectionpump adjusted so the maximum boost I make is 12 lbs. Don't have an intercooler though one would be real nice.
I would reduce the fuel on the injection pump a bit before spending money and see what happens - you might be surprised.
 

thx997303

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This is the first I've heard of my EGTs being high.......I had thought they were normal....

I'm not making as much boost as you are, so that might make a difference.

I personally haven't adjusted the IP except timing the engine, and everything I've seen on this engine suggests that it was set when built and left there. The previous owner wasn't one to hot rod things.

I haven't run it in winter or fall yet.
 

lindstromjd

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Your EGT's aren't anywhere close to being high. Your pump isn't turned up too much until you can hit 1100* easily unloaded. And since your timing is pretty much dead-on, you don't have to worry about it. Now it's just about how much fuel you can get out of it safely.
 
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