What's needed to start a 12 valve on the ground

[Classicfordguy]

Saw some U tube videos of guys starting 5.9 12valves on the ground, one looked to just be sitting on some blocks of wood and another was on wood with an engine crane holding a chain tight from the lift hooks.

It would be nice to start the complete engine I bought from the ford 800 just to make sure it runs with no knocks. Whats the best way to tie it down? What all is needed? Just 12 volts to the starter and fuel? How is the fuel turned on and off on these?


Thanks,

-Rob

 

[dairieman36]

if its the p pump theres a cylenoid with a rod on the bottom that turns the fuel on and off u can just hold up on the rod to turn the fuel on then you just need fuel and power for the starter...and of course make sure the engine is strap to something so it dosent go anywhere i started mine when it was on a pallat in my back yard this way...

 

[Classicfordguy]

Cool, I assume I just let go of the lever to shut it off?

-Rob

 

[averagef250]

The fuel solenoid just turns the on/off lever. You can operate it by hand like stated before.

If you've never started it, strap it down. If it's run smooth before it should be fine to start anywhere. But if it's only firing on 3-4 cylinders it can shake wildly about.

 

[Classicfordguy]

I'll be sure to strap it down, it's too heavy not to be afraid of.

Was going to try it last night at the shop but then realized there were so many disconected mystery hoses due to it being a medium duty truck engine. Didn't know which ones were water or oil and one of the hoses going into the air pump was cut so if it were an oil hose I might have runied it.

I did drain the oil which looked fine, the oil pan appears to be the same size as the dodge pan but I could be wrong. Also pulled the belt so as not to turn any accessories, removed the fan too.

Folowing the fuel line it goes into a housing with a plunger/primer thingy, is that for priming the fuel or something?

Also, is rotella 15w40 fine for a 5.9?

Either way, I figured I better find and download the manual for both the engine and the air pump before test starting. Hopefully I can start it later this week.

-Rob

 

[Classicfordguy]

Found info on the compressor, CFM at 1250RPM is 13.5 at 120psi, also at 1250RPM and 120 PSI it only uses 2.5HP, probably less when its just blowing off air. The only bad part is the recomended max RPM is listed as 3000 I'm not looking to spin the engine I build to 5k but I would probably put 4k springs in it and pass the 3k mark on occasion, wonder if that max is only while it's actualy compressing air?

-Rob

 

[averagef250]

I would try 3000 RPM first. I bet you'll be pretty happy with it unless you really like to stab the skinny pedal.

The air compressor has 2 oil lines. One is a small pressure line off the main oil galley, the other is the drain hose, it's clear because it goes in the pan. The rest of the lines are air intake, air out, coolant in, coolant out and 1-2 unloading lines (the unloader is the fist sized aluminum deal on the top or side of the compressor.

The ford pan and dodge pans look similar. Here's the difference- The bottom of the dodge pan is 2" below the block skirt and flat to the sump. The ford 5 gallon pans taper a few inches along the bottom until they meet the sump. The dodge pan already holds 3 gallons. 2 more gallons isn't that hard to fit in there really. I guess you might be able to get away with running the ford pan rear sump with only 10-12 quarts in it, but the pan still likely won't clear your front crossmember.

The plunger on the lift pump is the manual priming pump.

 

[Classicfordguy]

Cool, well I haven't been back to look but I'm sure you're right about it being a 5 gallon pan, alot of oil did come out of it. I figured it was some sort of priming pump, do you use it durring regular service or just when you run it out of fuel or something?

Only reason I was thinking 4k springs is to give me more range in each gear for accelerating onto the highway and stuff like that, I would never have a reason to cruise at that kind of rpm, just short birsts.

I was able to find the whole manual for the air pump so the line that was unhooked was just a coolant feed line.

-Rob

 

[averagef250]

These engines make no power past 2500 unless you do some serious work to them. They make peak torque at 16-1700 RPM, that's where they're designed to run. Yes, that means when you have 300 HP your engine will be making 600 lb/ft at 1700 RPM. It will be making about 300 lb/ft at 4000.

I find that 3000 is plenty with a close ratio 5 speed and 3500 is plenty with a 4 speed auto or wide ratio 5 speed.