kb1jid
Registered User
Hi Iam going to be buying a new water pump for my 1990 7.3 any ones better then others and where to buy Thanks
Whats a good brand water pump
- Thread starter kb1jid
- Start date
Simp5782
SNOW TACKLER!
Depends on what kind of warranty you want. I know at oreilly they are around 70$ or so. I think I got my last one on ebay for $50 shipped or something. It was a new one. <shrug> doesnt matter to me if they work they work if they dont get another one. They arent that hard of a job. Just make sure you place your top 2 bolts back in the same spots.
DragRag
Registered User
I have had them all, they all work fine.
Kevin 007
Full-floater
X2 on the top two bolts going back in the same spots. I have not done one for a while but I "think" all the other bolts are the same lenght.
I have used two NAPA pumps and they are still working. I don't think any aftermarket brands are as good as stock motorcraft but what can ya do????
I have used two NAPA pumps and they are still working. I don't think any aftermarket brands are as good as stock motorcraft but what can ya do????
snaponprofile
Full Access Member
Don't use anything but Motorcraft.
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
ebay uhaul 38 bucks I think, 3 used so far no probs.
Can't recommend a rebuild from Autozone. Mine lasted only 25K. Sure it had a lifetime warrenty, but I don't want to change them out every 25K, free replacement or not.
I've bought nothing but new Ford (Motorcraft) since. To me the $95 is worth the peice of mind.
Heath
I've bought nothing but new Ford (Motorcraft) since. To me the $95 is worth the peice of mind.
Heath
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When it comes to installing something that is a pia, use Motorcraft.
I replaced mine in Jan or Feb of 2009 and it was cold and my big fat bumper that sticks out over twelve inches (you can actually stand in the space between the grille and the bumper) turned it into a three day ordeal in the twenties...
I actually had to lay down sideways on the radiator support to do the gasket scraping, cleaning and of course that doesn't account for the prep work getting to where I could take the old water pump off. Like dealing with the stupid fan...
I hated every minute of it...
As a helpful hint, I would take the long bolts, cut the heads off the shoulders so you can use them as guides. The water pump is really heavy and you are going to ruin your gasket sealant with the water pump shifting all over the front of the engine... AND...
Use permatex gasket sealer on the two bolts that attach to the timing cover, to keep coolant from seeping into the crankcase. They attach to the sheetmetal timing cover behind the water pump. You really don't want to miss this crucial step...
Iirc, the new water pumps will come with two shorter bolts to take the place of the two long bolts which are located on the bottom, the bosses on the water pump have been changed so all of the bolts for the water pump are the same. You still have to use the gasket sealer on the two bottom bolts that screw into the timing cover, though.
I made it a little easier on me for the next time I have to change the water pump, I used the permatex gasket sealer only on the paper gasket and water pump side... This way, most of the gasket should come off with the water pump and if it is ok, then I can scrape the old gasket off in the comfort of my house!
I replaced mine in Jan or Feb of 2009 and it was cold and my big fat bumper that sticks out over twelve inches (you can actually stand in the space between the grille and the bumper) turned it into a three day ordeal in the twenties...
I actually had to lay down sideways on the radiator support to do the gasket scraping, cleaning and of course that doesn't account for the prep work getting to where I could take the old water pump off. Like dealing with the stupid fan...
I hated every minute of it...
As a helpful hint, I would take the long bolts, cut the heads off the shoulders so you can use them as guides. The water pump is really heavy and you are going to ruin your gasket sealant with the water pump shifting all over the front of the engine... AND...
Use permatex gasket sealer on the two bolts that attach to the timing cover, to keep coolant from seeping into the crankcase. They attach to the sheetmetal timing cover behind the water pump. You really don't want to miss this crucial step...
Iirc, the new water pumps will come with two shorter bolts to take the place of the two long bolts which are located on the bottom, the bosses on the water pump have been changed so all of the bolts for the water pump are the same. You still have to use the gasket sealer on the two bottom bolts that screw into the timing cover, though.
I made it a little easier on me for the next time I have to change the water pump, I used the permatex gasket sealer only on the paper gasket and water pump side... This way, most of the gasket should come off with the water pump and if it is ok, then I can scrape the old gasket off in the comfort of my house!
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boggerted
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According to the shop manual thread sealant is to be used on the top two and bottom two bolts of the water pump. As for brands I got a new GMB unit from advance and so far so good.
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
This thread is a bit old but there is critical tech info missing. Some new water pumps have an updated casting and the original bolts will not be the right length. If the top bolts are too long they can run into the IP drive gear and damage it. I think icanfixall has the correct info on this issue. I used a Motorcraft pump, but it probably isn't absolutely essential. The main thing is surface prep, that backing plate really needs to be perfect, no old gasket or sealer left, use the aviation permatex that is recommended and pay careful attention to the bolts that are indicated (it's been awhile so I forget which ones exactly) and make sure that you use the correct length top bolts for the old or updated pump casting. Do that and it'll work well.
