what size brake line is the LR axle?

[texcl]

I'm replacing the drivers side rear brake cylinder and it looks like I'm going to break the line under the nut at the cylinder. What size fitting and line should I buy to replace this should my overnight soaking in PB not work?

 

[laserjock]

I'll check for sure when I get home on the dividing block side but the wheel cylinder should be 3/8. Line is 3/16. I think the dividing block on that side is 7/16". Mine is bigger on the drivers side than the pass side.

 

[texcl]

Great, thanks! Wish I could just buy the thing pre-done. I know I used a 7/16" wrench on both line nuts, I didn't have a clue about the line size. This will be the first time I've made a brake line, so I have to buy all the tools. This all started when I tried to bleed my brakes and broke of the bleeder valve, so had to buy a wheel cylinder, now the dang brake line looks like it's gonna break. At least I have the other side loose so the carnage should stop there, lol.

 

[laserjock]

Most part stores have premade lengths with different nuts. Napa I'm just sure would have a line you could shape to fit. Pull the old line off and measure it and or take it with you.

 

[texcl]

Ok, I'll try that 1st.

 

[ironworker40]

Buy the copper nickle brake line. I know advanced has it. Some call it never kink. You can bend all but tight bends by hand. Its not supposed to rust but i have not had this on anything long enough to tell yet.

Also the hand benders that look like pliers are great. Flare tool is a double flare no a single. One you do this its simple. U tube should have videos on how to bend and flare
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0180..._SY340_QL65&keywords=copper+nickle+brake+line

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-forming-tool-pliers.html

 

[ironworker40]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000L...ing+cutter&dpPl=1&dpID=51YJCUtFuxL&ref=plSrch
this is a must have tool for brake lines. Dont buy cheap tubing tools either. You will regret it. A good quality flare tool bender and cutter will last you a lifetime. You will only buy it once. The ridgid cutters have replaceable cuttting wheels if they ever get dull

 

[rwk]

Yes get a pre made line if you don't plan on doing more, get it a little longer you can always put a loop in it make alignment easier to start the nut. Typical start at one end make all the bends get to other end and your 1 inch short then you get mad and bend and kink it, start over. I borrowed the eastwood big dollar flare tool from a friend to do the 93 brake lines, and have a cheap bender, worked fine, cheap flare tools not so good.

 

[OLDBULL8]

For such a short brake line you don't need all those tools. Take your old line with you so you get the correct line. There is Metric and SAE fittings. Get a line 6" to 8" longer than the original, take a soup can and bend a loop around the can, that way you can stretch or shorten the line. Place the loop so it's hi point is up. Replace the rubber line also. Your new line has a fitting at each end so you don't have to flare it.

Double flares are very hard to make correctly. A bubble flare is even harder to make correct. All brake line ends are one of the two, a single flare usually will not hold and/or break from the braking hi pressure.

Do the job right, your life depends on it.

 

[laserjock]

Unless you are doing the whole truck, don't buy the tools. For a repair just get the closest line to what you need. Go a little longer rather than shorter. That line bends around the spring perch. You just adjust how much room you have between the spring perch and the line to get it to fit the length.

 

[texcl]

Got her done, just got the closest size to the original and bent it over a large socket. Had to use adapters since the line had 3/8 nuts and the original had 7/16". brakes work awesome now, thanks for all the help.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I second the copper nikel when replacing lines. I redid my entire truck with it including the fuel hard lines. They also make reasonably priced stainless kits.

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=371501247482&alt=web

 

[laserjock]

For the love of GOD please stay away from Inline tube. If you need details hit my build thread. I need to get a posting up in the wall of shame.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

For the love of GOD please stay away from Inline tube. If you need details hit my build thread. I need to get a posting up in the wall of shame.

Really? I got a set for my suburban, they were excellent.

 

[laserjock]

All I can speak to is my experience. They were far less than awesome. Short version.

Ordered stainless kit for truck. Got lines. Those don't look like stainless. SURELY they didn't make them in steel and charge me for stainless. Must be mill finish. eh. Installed partially. Rear axle lines had wrong fittings I find out when doing brakes. Master to RABS line wrong fitting. I had the set too long to refund. Okay. That's my fault. They weren't stainless and they knew it as soon as I sent a picture so that was the third strike on the first set. So they sold me a set at cost. Okay. If that were the end of the story, I'd be okay. Not happy but okay. The first box I got had just the rear lines and the one master line in it. They were right but there 4 pieces missing. Next shipment had the front to rear line for a reg cab and was still missing the master to front line. Third box was the correct line from front to rear but the master to front line was still missing. Fourth box was finally the master to front wheel line. Each of these iterations took a full week to get parts and they wouldn't even talk about expedited shipping even though it was their mistake.

So my advice is buyer beware.