Nrliftedranger
Full Access Member
wghat do you guys have for oil pressure warm at idle?? and cold idle
what do you guys have for oil pressure
- Thread starter Nrliftedranger
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Diesile
Full Access Member
Cold idle 40# Hot idle 12-15#.....down the road at 17-1800rpm=40-45#.
FarmerFrank
Full Access Member
My 86 is around 15 hot idle and 45-50 going down the road.
My 88 however has 30 hot going down the road. It concerns me a little but that's how it's always been with a very reliable steward Warner manual gauge. I added 2 quarts of Lucas and its been the same for a year now so I try not to over think it
My 88 however has 30 hot going down the road. It concerns me a little but that's how it's always been with a very reliable steward Warner manual gauge. I added 2 quarts of Lucas and its been the same for a year now so I try not to over think it
whiteboyslo
FNG
Cold idle - 40ish
Warm idle - 11-15
Cruising - same as cold idle, mostly
I have a Banks turbo, which relocates the sending unit to the turbo right next to the supply line. The sending unit is T'd in with the OEM unit for the dash. The gauge is an Autometer.
Mike
Warm idle - 11-15
Cruising - same as cold idle, mostly
I have a Banks turbo, which relocates the sending unit to the turbo right next to the supply line. The sending unit is T'd in with the OEM unit for the dash. The gauge is an Autometer.
Mike
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
My pressure is much different from most idi engines. I replaced the rear oil cooler header because the pressure regulater spring wears out in those. then you pressure drops and nothing can make it go higher either. Replacing the spring will change the pressures but so far we have not found a srping supplier yet. Now when I purchased my new rear header I removed the spring and added 60 thousands of custom made shims. My cold starts will show 70 lbs and cold idle is around 45 lbs. Hot idle will show 15 to 20 lbs. Driving nicely I mostly see around 45 to 55 lbs no matter the rpm. Now before you all go asking how to I have to post this first. At what pressure does our oil bypass valve open.??? Thats the small disc we see when the filter is removed for changes. If we know what pressure that's set for we can increase our main line pressures. What I did to increase main line pressure was not something I would do again without first knowing what the bypass pressure is. Dirty oil is still better than no oil but clean is much better all around town.
The FNG
NOT a Powerstroke!
I show between 45-50 cold idle and going down the highway, and 20-25 warm idle. Not sure why I have a higher warm idle than most...
Oog
Full Access Member
O. usually start at M and work down
The FNG
NOT a Powerstroke!
By the way, I put a T in on top of my turbo where my dummy gauge sensor is. Not sure if it makes a difference where it is on the engine, especially with some of the n/a stuff.
PwrSmoke
Full Access Member
The filter bypass pressure is the differential pressure between the two sides of the filter. Once the entire system is pressurized, it doesn't matter if the mainline pressure is 40 or 100 PSI, the bypass will only open when the pressure differential between the two sides of the filter reaches the preset pressure set by the factory. In normal circumstances, with warm oil, there is only a few PSI difference between the inlet and the outlet side of the filter. That pressure differential increases as the filter loads up with dirt or when the oil is cold. Having higher mainline pressure might increase the the opportunities for bypass in certain circumstances. You almost always get a momentary bypass on a cold start, for example, when the cold, thick oil doesn't want to flow thru the filter (is your oil too thick for the climate?). Something similar might happen on a cool start, when a surge of oil hits the filter with the downstream system at a greatly lower pressure than the upstream side.
A big step towards fewer filter bypass events is having the bigger FL1995 Powerstroke filter. It has nearly twice the filter media area as the standard filter and while flow isn't exactly double due to it's increased filtration efficiency, I was told by an industry source flow is about 60 percent more than the standard FL746. The right oil viscosity for climate and operational situation is another. In other words, if your truck operates in a cool climate where the oil doesn't often get hot, especially if the truck is short hopped, running a heavy oil will increase the number of filter bypass events due to flow issues due to thick oil.
Keep one thing in mind that "pressure" is only a part of the equation of pressure AND flow. Pressure is the absence of flow... in other words flow doesn't necessarily increase when pressure does (relative to the output of the oil pump). The most restrictive part of the lube system is the part AFTER the filter... the oil galleries, etc. You need some pressure but the engine designer will have determined what that is relative to al the design criteria. If you engine has oil pressure within the specified range, even if it seems lower than what you are used to from experience with other engines, you are good to go with your IDI! 40-70 PSI @ 2000rpm with hot oil is the spec.
I run 10W30 oil in mine and have since new, or whenI got it in '87 with a few thousand miles on the clock. I've run 15W40 in it at times... during a very long towing trip in the summer, or when I couldn't find 10W30 HDEO at different times in the '90s. There is a 3-5 psi difference in hot (170-180F EOT) oil pressure @ 2000 rpm. IIRC, it was 48 with the 10W30 and 51 with 15W40.
