Waystro
No Class
Oh I doubt that'll happen
i got some secrets planned for her
I got motivation to work on her again.
WE GOT A RUNNER, BOYS!
- Thread starter Cruiseomatic
- Start date
i got some secrets planned for her
I got motivation to work on her again.
Waystro
No Class
Kinda makes your knees weak don't it? LolCongrats on getting it running.
You gotta love he sound of an IDI firing up! I do.
Cruiseomatic
Defining Insanity
It does. Especially when she starts with NO ETHER! I may need your core just to borrow. I'm not hanging a radiator from the hood to run her. All I could done after work was electrical. Just got done....
Cruiseomatic
Defining Insanity
Well, I'm not done....got a new plan. Starting at firewall plug and going down the harness, I'm cleaning very good and water proofing all connections. Also, I'm building a new glowplug/engine harness. Mine is original and done.
Broke another connector off last night. Found my volt gauge issue. Its sticking. Temp is still acting weird. Need to pull cluster on that.
Broke another connector off last night. Found my volt gauge issue. Its sticking. Temp is still acting weird. Need to pull cluster on that.
Congratulations!
Cruiseomatic
Defining Insanity
Started on the electrical last night. Repaired the 4 wires damaged by rats, and coated liquid tape on the factory compression splices. Doing another coat tonight then wrapping them before putting it all back into conduit.
Check this stuff out. I've been using for electrical connections and bushings, seems pretty tough. I rolled a sheet out for my hog hunting table too...keeps my bipod from sliding around.
www.versimold.com
www.versimold.com
Cruiseomatic
Defining Insanity
I love having Friday thru Sunday off...hate my job, what I do, the pay, and co workers but love the schedule.
Got a mechanical oil gauge on where factory sending unit is. At cold, since I haven't had time to put the radiator on still, she's got approximately 45 psi at 500 +/- rpms. My tach is acting kinda funny. At approximately 2500 - 3000 she's got 55 psi. Still smokes like a bong to the point you start coughing and wasn't hitting on all 8 at idle but touch that SENSITIVE ass throttle and she's gone! I do have a weird mixture currently for oil so I'm not making assumptions yet. But, the fella I got the IP from says she may be turned up a little. Could also be my timing. Once I find a way to rig up the rad I'll try again
In all this good news, I have some bad. My valley pan is getting pretty bad. To the point I could scrape chunks of rust off last night. Since 6.9 and 7.3s are so close, And the 7.3 is sooo much more common for some reason, Can I use a pan for a 7.3? And either way, This gives me an excuse to open the top end and inspect the push rods and crap. See how much bleh is in there. Hopefully not much. And the line on my PS pump, the retainer nut, Has the hex stripped off. So now I can't get it off to put the replacement on. Anyone have any ideas?
Also, What is the difference besides the radiator depth, what are the differences between air and no air core supports? If its just rad depth, I know a guy who can cut the bottom off mine and weld it onto the new.
Got a mechanical oil gauge on where factory sending unit is. At cold, since I haven't had time to put the radiator on still, she's got approximately 45 psi at 500 +/- rpms. My tach is acting kinda funny. At approximately 2500 - 3000 she's got 55 psi. Still smokes like a bong to the point you start coughing and wasn't hitting on all 8 at idle but touch that SENSITIVE ass throttle and she's gone! I do have a weird mixture currently for oil so I'm not making assumptions yet. But, the fella I got the IP from says she may be turned up a little. Could also be my timing. Once I find a way to rig up the rad I'll try again
In all this good news, I have some bad. My valley pan is getting pretty bad. To the point I could scrape chunks of rust off last night. Since 6.9 and 7.3s are so close, And the 7.3 is sooo much more common for some reason, Can I use a pan for a 7.3? And either way, This gives me an excuse to open the top end and inspect the push rods and crap. See how much bleh is in there. Hopefully not much. And the line on my PS pump, the retainer nut, Has the hex stripped off. So now I can't get it off to put the replacement on. Anyone have any ideas?
Also, What is the difference besides the radiator depth, what are the differences between air and no air core supports? If its just rad depth, I know a guy who can cut the bottom off mine and weld it onto the new.
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Cruiseomatic
Defining Insanity
Shes dead. Was running good, Stopped smoking, was getting good then just shut down. "Engine" light was on but I figured it was because I had the oil unit off using a mech gauge. Rear ABS light was also on but I think its just a dirty connection or bad brake fluid. Had good oil pressure and was running her to bleed cooling system down. Not sure. Haven't pulled GPs yet. Oil doesn't look like to much like a milk shake but I think it was the old crap mixing with new. I don't know enough about the 6.9s to know what happened let alone guess.....After she shut down, Stupid me tried to restart her. Half a spin and CLUNK....I probably bent a friggin rod. 
And these don't start to show how I feel. Sigh.....This truck is done for. Can't afford a new engine. I haven't had much luck with "used" engines.
And these don't start to show how I feel. Sigh.....This truck is done for. Can't afford a new engine. I haven't had much luck with "used" engines.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Engine light was on from over heating most likely.
Sensitive throttle and rough idle is air in the fuel line's.
You say "oil doesn't look too much like milkshake." Well let me tell you, has nothing to do with new antifreeze mixing with old. Only one thing will cause that...
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Sensitive throttle and rough idle is air in the fuel line's.
You say "oil doesn't look too much like milkshake." Well let me tell you, has nothing to do with new antifreeze mixing with old. Only one thing will cause that...
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Cruiseomatic
Defining Insanity
Not old antifreeze. Old oil mixing with new oil and additives. Looked like a light light chocolate. I'll have to get a pic.
Not really a rough idle but more like the injectors haven't been run in atleast 8 or so years. So.....
Hydrolocked. Pulled all the plugs and number 5 ( I think) Was just gushing water......I give up. However, She cranks just fine now. (obviously) So maybe I didn't bend a rod.....I'm not holding my breath though. I'm at the end of my working knowledge on what to do with this. Anyone in the houston area want to come take a look at it?
Not really a rough idle but more like the injectors haven't been run in atleast 8 or so years. So.....
Hydrolocked. Pulled all the plugs and number 5 ( I think) Was just gushing water......I give up. However, She cranks just fine now. (obviously) So maybe I didn't bend a rod.....I'm not holding my breath though. I'm at the end of my working knowledge on what to do with this. Anyone in the houston area want to come take a look at it?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Oh, I thought you were talking about the coolant. Lol
Still gonna be head gasket or cavitation.
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Still gonna be head gasket or cavitation.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Cruiseomatic
Defining Insanity
If I had a compression gauge I could probably find out if its a head gasket without pulling the head. I don't have a shop to pull heads and ****. Hell, I haven't owned an engine puller in years. Never needed one.
Cruiseomatic
Defining Insanity
The ***** of it is, It ran for at least 5 minutes, started to come to temp, then BAM! On the bright side, I THINK I do have a reverse gear. PO said it didn't have it but when she was running, Since the brakes don't work because of condensation in fluid I put cinder blocks behind the back wheels and put her in R. She tried to move....Probably would slip out after a minute but it did try.
Cruiseomatic
Defining Insanity
Just cranked it over by starter 10 minutes ago. Hasn't run since it locked and I got the water out of 5. Well, Water filled the cylinder again.
Even though it was NOT running or ran since then. So I'm thinking cracked head or block. The cooling system was also not under pressure when this happened. I left the rad cap off to fill when the t-stat opened.....If I replace the engine which, Honestly, I do just to avoid any "surprises" I'd go with a Motorcraft reman. But, closest "dealer" wants $4K for a short and 6 for a long.
Even though it was NOT running or ran since then. So I'm thinking cracked head or block. The cooling system was also not under pressure when this happened. I left the rad cap off to fill when the t-stat opened.....If I replace the engine which, Honestly, I do just to avoid any "surprises" I'd go with a Motorcraft reman. But, closest "dealer" wants $4K for a short and 6 for a long.
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