Water Pump 1988 7.3 ?

[HammerDown]

I Fellas, been a while...hope everyone is well.
Water Pump question refresher...on my 1988 7.3 does anyone know where the water pump 'weep-hole' is located?
Looking directly at the engine is it at 12-oclock, 3-6-9? (I'm having a difficult time finding it)
Symptom...
Truck sits dead cold = no leak.
Truck is hot and running = no leak
HOWEVER...turn off hot Engine and pressure builds and coolant is weeping from somewhere???
If I release pressure from radiator cap weep stops.
No coolant in Oil, no Oil in Rad or overflow bottle.

*I don't think it is a bad Water Pump as when they fail they will always drip from the 'weep-hole' while running...correct?

*Possible Water Pump-gasket that is weeping after engine shut off and when engine is hot it's sealing-up?

Difficult to see exactly where Coolant is coming but it appears down behind the Balance...but that could be coming from anywhere above.
Crawling under Truck again to have a look-see.
Thanks for any feedback Ray

 

[Thewespaul]

Do you have any play when you grab the fan and rock it on the axis? I’ll try and take some pictures when I get to the shop

 

[BrianX128]

Should be at 6pm

 

[HammerDown]

Update and reply...
well, I was all over the underside and was able to snug all Water Pump Bolts...weep is coming down from behind Harmonic Balancer.
There is ZERO play at the Fan which if-so usually indicates a bad WP bearing.
Still have my auto Zone receipt...Water Pump was replaced in 5/2006 and it instantly failed on the highway (sloppy shaft with lots of play)
I don't believe the WP gasket is the problem.
I do believe the WP-weep hole is behind the Fanbelt Pulley Hub...cause it is NOT visible.

Oil Cooler is dry, Heads are dry, Thermostat housing is dry.

I have a feeling the WP is the problem but, it doesn't make sense as to why it doesn't leak when the Engine is running???

What bites...the drain plug for the aftermarket radiator is un-accessible and draining it is going to be a huge PTA and messy.

 

[BrianX128]

One of the pumps in my 300 went bad and had the same leaking symptoms. Fan didn't move at all with the belts on. With them off however if almost fell off the truck.

 

[HammerDown]

One of the pumps in my 300 went bad and had the same leaking symptoms. Fan didn't move at all with the belts on. With them off however if almost fell off the truck.

I can see how the belts are keeping the shaft snug. But when the WP failed in 2006 Belts or not there was a lot of movement at the Fan.

Still not making sense why it doesn't leak when the engine is hot...but it has to be the WP.

Looks like the only way drain the Rad, I have to drill a hole in the bottom of the lower Hose...or...drill an access hole under the Rad support ***!
Damn aftermarket Aluminum/plastic radiators!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

When you shut the engine off, the temperature on a mechanical gauge will rise for a while (assuming that a diesel works the same way that the gas engine that I saw this on did). If the temperature rises, then the pressure may rise some too. This could explain why there's no leak until you shut off the hot engine.

 

[Thewespaul]

When you shut the engine off, the temperature on a mechanical gauge will rise for a while (assuming that a diesel works the same way that the gas engine that I saw this on did). If the temperature rises, then the pressure may rise some too. This could explain why there's no leak until you shut off the hot engine.

I can confirm this happening on my truck

 

[HammerDown]

When you shut the engine off, the temperature on a mechanical gauge will rise for a while (assuming that a diesel works the same way that the gas engine that I saw this on did). If the temperature rises, then the pressure may rise some too. This could explain why there's no leak until you shut off the hot engine.

I agree the temp and pressure rise a little...suppose it's too much for the water pump Seal to handle and coolant is exiting the weep-hole.
Anyhow, I'll be digging into this project tomorrow.
*I can't believe the replacement radiator (aluminum/plastic) drain plug is un accessible...***!

BTW...I just looked outside...coolant mark under the Engine so now it's leaking cold too.

 

[HammerDown]

Started tear-down and already have 'new' WP.
Tomorrow am when I remove the belt Pulley I sure hope that Weep-Hole is wet!
BTW...I've always used and had very good success with Permatex High Tack...what's you preferred WP sealant?
https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-high-tack-gasket-sealant/

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Thanks, Thewespaul, for confirming my theory. For me, I just use whatever I have to make sure that the gasket actually stays in place long enough for me to get the water pump on. Usually just a thin coating of RTV. The gasket has always done the sealing for me.

 

[laserjock]

I like permatex 2 or ultrablack.

 

[Thewespaul]

Some bolts should come with the water pump, they replace the longer bolts that go through into oil. I like to cut off the head of the bolts being replaced and make a notch on one end. This makes a stud that you can slide the whole water pump in place on. Just use a flathead to pull them out

 

[HammerDown]

Ugh...got a bad feeling.
The water Pump snout was not sloppy or even loose, no side play at all but just a fraction of in-out movement...the bearing does have a somewhat dry sound to it when spun by hand.
The weep hole was not wet as I was hoping however, does show a slight 'clean' dry trail/area coming out and down.

What has me WORRIED (actually feeling sick) you know the Front Gear Cover (between the block and Water Pump). At the bottom of the driver side water port I can move the (top-edge) of that metal Cover in-out a few thousands of an inch.

What are the chances... the Coolant is leaking from behind the Front Gear Cover and block??? (please tell me it's not)
My Haynes 7.3 book shows a gasket behind that cover.
I don't even want to know what's involved in removing that front gear cover.

 

[Thewespaul]

I believe @IDIoit is our timing cover expert