Buy some test tools, forget most shops, as said these engines appear to have a lot of blowby when in fine shape. I could be so buried in work if I had a shop.
Was told the 6.9 I just bought is toast!
- Thread starter SnoFord
- Start date
SnoFord
Registered User
Hey thanks for the replies, I didn't receive the email notifications that showed I was getting responses to this thread! I ended up buying the other motor for $500 and have decided to go ahead with the swap. I just bought the factory service manual (on CD) and have been looking at this thread http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?65128-Just-purchased-F250-6-9&highlight=6.9+swap. Does anyone else know of a good write up on doing this swap? Thankfully this will be plug and play since the new motor is of the same year.
Here's a pic of the new motor. I have been working on degreasing it. I am going to touch up some of the grey paint on it as well before it goes in.
Here's a shot of the truck:
Here's a pic of the new motor. I have been working on degreasing it. I am going to touch up some of the grey paint on it as well before it goes in.
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Here's a shot of the truck:
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mariner45
Full Access Member
Same truck that I have though mine has a CTS turbo in it. Looks like your body is great shape - I wish mine looked like that.
Either way, you will have a good truck by the time you finish the engine work.
While I think of it, does it have the factory water separator in it still - it is on the firewall driver side. If it hasn't been removed it would be worth you while to remove it as it is a source of air leaks in the fuel system and caused starting issues.
Nice looking truck.
Either way, you will have a good truck by the time you finish the engine work.
While I think of it, does it have the factory water separator in it still - it is on the firewall driver side. If it hasn't been removed it would be worth you while to remove it as it is a source of air leaks in the fuel system and caused starting issues.
Nice looking truck.
SnoFord
Registered User
Yes it does have the factory water separator. What system should I replace it with. I am planning on putting in an electric fan too (read a good write up about doing that).
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tbirdfiend281
Full Access Member
stick with the mechanical fan since you wanna pull heavy. E fans are kinda spotty with reliability, and unless your willing to drop a few hundred bucks for an E fan setup, the mechanical fan will flow a lot more air that you will need when ripping up and down mountain passes. I say this because of the E fans I have run in my 98 Jeep, nothing but problems really. So moral of the story, please stay mechanical fan.
Second, I like that color scheme.
Second, I like that color scheme.
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REBUILD the oil cooler before you install that engine....it's time well wasted!
avoid washing in the intake valley area. the CDR tube seals poorly and you will fill your crankcase with water.
Also after fighting 2 heavily carboned in injectors on the used engine I have in the dually , I highly recommend pulling the injectors to clean the bores and install new coppers, if the injectors arent torqued right the washers leak and cook them into the head. HUGE pita.
mariner45
Full Access Member
Don't know about electric fan - on my truck the original fan has been more than adequate throughout it's life (I bought the truck in 1986).
Re water seperator. To stop leaks (fuel out or air in) just put a tight fitting bolt into the end of the drain hose and use a hose clamp to secure the bolt. This acts as a plug and stops the leaks. I used a Racor filter assembly that bolts onto the fuel filter support - need to go and check my truck for more info.
SnoFord
Registered User
Okay I am building a list from your responses.
-Leave the mechanical fan. (was thinking the motor will make more power without needing to spin that and I can control air flow more precisely, but for now I will keep the stock fan, keep it simple for this swap)
-Rebuild oil cooler? Does anyone have a suggestion on a write up for that or a good rebuild procedure/kit?
-Pull all of the injectors on new motor and clean and get new copper (I assume I will need to buy a injector rebuild kit). Any suggestions here?
-Back to my original question, does anyone know of a good write up on doing a 6.9 engine replacement?
-Would you guys suggest I pull the whole front clip off the truck to do this swap? I am thinking I might just remove the front grill/headlights/radiator, & metal structure so i don't have to lift the motor so high and
have easier access to the engine bay.
-Remove/Plug off stock water separator and replace with Racor unit?
-Leave the mechanical fan. (was thinking the motor will make more power without needing to spin that and I can control air flow more precisely, but for now I will keep the stock fan, keep it simple for this swap)
-Rebuild oil cooler? Does anyone have a suggestion on a write up for that or a good rebuild procedure/kit?
-Pull all of the injectors on new motor and clean and get new copper (I assume I will need to buy a injector rebuild kit). Any suggestions here?
-Back to my original question, does anyone know of a good write up on doing a 6.9 engine replacement?
-Would you guys suggest I pull the whole front clip off the truck to do this swap? I am thinking I might just remove the front grill/headlights/radiator, & metal structure so i don't have to lift the motor so high and
have easier access to the engine bay.
-Remove/Plug off stock water separator and replace with Racor unit?
Last edited:
Can30Diesel
Full Access Member
-Leave the mechanical fan. (was thinking the motor will make more power without needing to spin that and I can control air flow more precisely, but for now I will keep the stock fan, keep it simple for this swap) --- Yup!
-Rebuild oil cooler? Does anyone have a suggestion on a write up for that or a good rebuild procedure/kit? --- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKTUiat1UkY
-Pull all of the injectors on new motor and clean and get new copper (I assume I will need to buy a injector rebuild kit). Any suggestions here? --- I'd buy a return line kit, it comes with the new copper washers for the injectors as well as new caps and return line.
-Back to my original question, does anyone know of a good write up on doing a 6.9 engine replacement? --- Its pretty much like any other motor removal. Google is your friend here.
-Would you guys suggest I pull the whole front clip off the truck to do this swap? I am thinking I might just remove the front grill/headlights/radiator, & metal structure so i don't have to lift the motor so high and
have easier access to the engine bay. --- Pull the whole front clip, you will be glad you did.
-Remove/Plug off stock water separator and replace with Racor unit? --- Remove the stock one and either replace with a racor unit or the 7.3 filter/seperator assembly. Either will work great.
-Rebuild oil cooler? Does anyone have a suggestion on a write up for that or a good rebuild procedure/kit? --- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKTUiat1UkY
-Pull all of the injectors on new motor and clean and get new copper (I assume I will need to buy a injector rebuild kit). Any suggestions here? --- I'd buy a return line kit, it comes with the new copper washers for the injectors as well as new caps and return line.
-Back to my original question, does anyone know of a good write up on doing a 6.9 engine replacement? --- Its pretty much like any other motor removal. Google is your friend here.
-Would you guys suggest I pull the whole front clip off the truck to do this swap? I am thinking I might just remove the front grill/headlights/radiator, & metal structure so i don't have to lift the motor so high and
have easier access to the engine bay. --- Pull the whole front clip, you will be glad you did.
-Remove/Plug off stock water separator and replace with Racor unit? --- Remove the stock one and either replace with a racor unit or the 7.3 filter/seperator assembly. Either will work great.
Whole front clip is faster/ less bolts. You need a return kit likely anyway and it comes with coppers, I have them available. pm for details.
tbirdfiend281
Full Access Member
Maybe its just the flat rate guy talking in my head, but I mean, its just a pickup, why even waste the time pulling the clip? I don't see the time and potential broken parts risk worth the benefit. Then again I have never been the poster child for sane tactics when it comes to just about everything.
i'd like to make a counterpoint to this "mechanic's" statement.
first if you follow his thought process, he is working in a a shop with the proper tools and material handling equipment.
he has the know-how(hopefully), equipment and the conditions to do a quick and dirty pull though the opening without much grief. do do what he's suggesting can be done.......but....you will need a stout enough of an engine hoist to either spin the motor 90deg inside the engine bay or tilt the motor at an extreme enough of an angle to clear the hole.
here's the problem with that stunt. most engine hoists available to the home mechanic can't handle the weight of these motors safely to begin with, attempting stunts of the above is asking for disaster.
i happen to live in an area where pulling apart a radiator support takes a little longer but is not insurmountable due to road salt. pulling the front clip is the fastest, but you do run the risk of scratching the paint a little.
either radiator support or front clip will keep you working safely with the equipment available to the home mechanic.
it's your truck, it's your well being at risk. some don't care, other do intensely. your call.
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