Voltage Regulator Wiring ????

[Pull-n-TugTx]

Alternator packed it bags today!! Put on a 100 amp reman, and thought I would replace the voltage reg as well. Alt I took off, wasnt 3yrs old from previous owner.

Got the alt on in the parking lot. Got home, and have wired in the new vlt reg. I have a "extra" wire on the plug that I have re-wired. (PO used electrical tape, and did a poor job of using it) so new splices.

Double White wires from S go to the yellow/black?

Double Yellow wires from A: One was wired to solid Yellow the other has a Female connector on it. Does that need to be Doubled into the sold Yellow??
Thanks for the help

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[Pull-n-TugTx]

New Alt & New Vlt Reg.

Shouldnt my Voltage be better than this???? On the way back from the parts store with old Reg it read in the mid normal range.
Thoughts???

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[dgr]

FYI, your second post's image does not show.

Left to right on your regulator with it facing you is Idiot light (Ignition on) , A+ Battery connector on alternator, Stator connection on alternator, Field connection on alternator.

I terminal is the on/off switch for the charging system. When the ignition key is turned on, it should have power on the wire.
Stator connection goes to the stator post on your alternator. You have no need to hook both wires up. The second white wire is there on your universal connector for something like an electric choke.

Does the connected yellow wire lead somehow to the battery? The unconnected yellow wire should light with a test light with the key off. If not, you aren't connected to your battery. It is there to provide battery power to stuff that needs it when the key is off, like a horn. A drunk ford engineer might be able to explain why they took it from that wiring.

Key on you should get reduced power from the ignition switch to the I wire.

 

[Pull-n-TugTx]

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If this pic dosnt load. The dash Gauge reads just off the first Tick mark, way before it gets to the N of normal.

 

[Pull-n-TugTx]

I do have power on the Yellow wire when the key is off.

Every time it starts I loose power at radio, like I have disconnected the battery. It was doing this intermentilly before, but know its every time.

Can you click on "attachment" to see photo?

 

[dgr]

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Does it read as if it is reading battery voltage and not charging voltage? If this were my truck, I would run a hot wire from the battery to the I terminal on the regulator and see if it doesn't start charging.

 

[dgr]

Also, disconnect your plug from your regulator. Put a test light on the left terminal OF THE PLUG. Turn key on. The light should light.

 

[franklin2]

Does the connected yellow wire lead somehow to the battery? The unconnected yellow wire should light with a test light with the key off. If not, you aren't connected to your battery. It is there to provide battery power to stuff that needs it when the key is off, like a horn. A drunk ford engineer might be able to explain why they took it from that wiring.

You have got it down except the yellow wire. The yellow wire goes to the "A" terminal of the regulator, and it's purpose is to provide feedback to the regulator so it knows how much voltage to put on the "F" or field wire of the alternator, which controls the output of the alternator. If the voltage drops on the yellow wire(A) the regulator senses this and directs the alternator to put out more.

There are usually two yellow wires, one will go to the battery as you said in some form or fashion, and the other yellow wire is usually connected to a capacitor for noise suppression(one of those silver cylinder things).

 

[Pull-n-TugTx]

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maybe this pic works.

I ran a Hot Jump from I to the battery, cranked it up and it now reads on the N of normal. When charging it should further to the High side???

 

[Pull-n-TugTx]

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[Pull-n-TugTx]

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[Pull-n-TugTx]

So I took the Hot Jump wire off. In dash reading did not change from low side normal.

Pulled the plug and checked the I with test light, key on. Power Here

For S-n-G's I put the old regulator back on. Cranked. Its running almost mid range.

Put the New on. It's back to the below normal.

THe gauge has bounced around, and never (for more than 30 mins) showed a steady reading, so Im dont know what is Ideal.

Thanks for all the help

 

[Wyreth]

Ford gauges are nigh useless. Hell mine reads right about the O, which on the bricknose gauge is in the yellow zone. But put my meter on it? 14.1v.

Don't trust your gauge to tell you anything, use a meter, or simply take it by a parts store and have them test it. They do it for free.

 

[dgr]

If you don't want to go by the parts store, read voltage at the battery with engine off and engine running with both regulators. That's all the in dash gauge is doing. But a meter will give you real numbers.

 

[Pull-n-TugTx]

Got up early this morning, with a clear head.

Turns out after going thru all the wires looking to see if I was grounding out. I found what I figure was the issue. The "Boot" on the Hot wire to the alt had a "Gnaw" marks on the bottom side (Pliers used with a Kung Fu grip by PO) causing interment grounding on the alt itself. So some Heat shrink and electrical tape.

Checked with the Volt meter

Hot post on alt: 13
Battery: 14

Dash gauge for what its worth Dead Center.

Thanks for all the help guys!!