Voltage help for GPs/ Hard start

[seawalkersee]

I checked the archives and a search was too vague I guess. My problem is that for the past month, I have had a hard start issue. Cranks for sometimes 30 sec before it starts to kick on maybe 2-3 cyl. You let it chug/chuff for a few seconds with your foot in it and MAYBE it will even out. Sometimes not and you have to try to start it again.

I checked today and all of the GPs are showing good. They are all Breus and I have the solid state system. So, with 11.8v at the B+ terminal of the GPR, I have about 10.5v at the waved piece of metal. About the same at the GP connector. I have about .5 ohm per plug to ground. My filter is the highest point in the fuel system, and I purged it to see if there was air, and there was not. So, I am at a loss of why this thing is hard to start. Do my voltages/ohms sound correct? Anyone?

SWS

 

[79jasper]

Ohms are correcto mundo. Give me a second to look in my manual for voltages.

 

[Wicked97]

11.8 means you are not getting full power to the controller.
Either your charging system is bad or the connector on the passenger inner fender is bad.
Its an easy fix.

Unhook the two big orange(at least I think that's the color its been awhile) wires from the controller and start solenoid.
Run a new 4 guage wire from the positive battery terminal to the post you removed them from on the controller.

Those factory wires were to small to begin with and that connector will mel corrode and give you headaches.

 

[79jasper]

Well it didn't say. But that sounds right.
So all glowplugs read exactly .5 ohms?
Also check continuity/ohms from the wavy piece to each glowplug connector. (The wire side)
The wavy piece actually drops the voltage.

 

[seawalkersee]

I have to be sure that was a reading with a good setup. I had done sevreal tests by the time I measured to the voltage AT the controller. I know, common sense would be to have measured that the VERY first thing, but who said I was smart. The ohms across the harness and GPs is very low. It may have been .25 or lower between the controller and the drivers front plug. Cant recall the whole thing. The rest of the readings seemed to be spot on as I added plugs to the harness. I only measured a few of the plugs, but with all of them showing good, it being like 70 degrees, I figured it should have fired right off.

SWS

 

[mariner45]

How about your fuel lift pump ? When they go bad and wear put, often fuel drains back through the pump causing an air lock if the fuel system (at least no fuel). Considering how cheap the fuel lift pumps are, I would put a new one in - mechanical or electric. It might be all that is the problem.
KISS - the electrical problems can be a real pain if they are not the cause - you keep looking for something not evident.
HTH

 

[Wicked97]

Those wires are direct battery voltage. If your reading less than 12 something is wrong.

What is your battery voltage measured at the battery?

 

[seawalkersee]

Already have an electric pump. Kind of a crappy one, procomp or something, but like I said, the filter head had no air in it. Not sure of the voltage since it was already being tested at the time and I had been running the pump for a while during the tests. The bottom dropped out of the climate here and it was single digits yesterday, so it will be a few days before I get back to it. This year, I am doing a fuel line overhaul starting with -8 to the pump and -6 return. I think that will make the lines good, and with the Carrier pump, it should fix a lot of problems if the Procomp pump is the problem.

I will post updates later. Now, it is bedtime.

SWS