Valve Lash

argve

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Alrighty then...

Specs and such...

Tell me how to go about this - an tips or tricks before I start...

I noticed tonight that I'm about 4k miles overdue on this little PM (according to my spread sheet) so I need to start thinking about getting with the program and getting this done.

on edit - any special tools I need to line up before hand? I know I'll need gaskets.
 

2500cummins

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chirp chirp chirp
^^^^^crickets chirping in the cummins forum.....









I use a socket on the alternator pulley to turn the engine. The timing pin is up under the injection pump near the block, while turning the engine watch for the #1 rockers to go slack and then push the pin in while turning the engine, if you are lucky the pin will lock into the hole in the timing gears.

Clearance is .010 intake, .020 exhaust,

Set the top line with the timing pin in, mark the damper and turn one full rotation, then set the second line.

cyl. #1 I E, #2 I-, #3 -E, #4 I-, #5 -E, #6--
cyl. #1 --, #2 -E, #3 I-, #4 -E, #5 I-, #6 I E

On the last one I did I couldn't get the pin to set, When the correct set of valves were slack for the first setting one of the notches in the damper was under the crankshaft sensor, I "assumed" that this was TDC#1 and set the valves using that notch as TDC, after everything was done I double checked the crank position by turning the crank slightly each way and rechecking lash, if the crank position is wrong some of the valves will be looser after its moved.
 

MLee

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Pulling the pin after finding TDC is a must before turning over the engine for the rest of the valves to be set. There is no hole for the pin to go in to,for the second bunch. So be sure you mark the Dampner and a place on the block for the next time you have to have the TDC for more work. Make it easy for your self. I use a barring tool, Its alot easier, you just have to source longer extentions, and watch out for the alternator wires, I use a piece of wire loom on the extention to protect these wires. works for me.
Marv.
 
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