Valve job

[gatorman21218]

Hello oilburners I'm knee deep in a valve job and thought id make a thread about it. A while ago I posted a video about the truck http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?55295-exhaust-video&highlight= .

So I did a compression check and heres the results:

1 - 450
2 - 490
3 - 500
4 - 490
5 - 190
6 - 450
7 - 500
8 - 450

So yeah the number 5 is bad. Other than that I am pleased with those numbers with 295,000 on the clock. So i pulled the valve cover on that side and I could really here the ticking coming from that valve. Long story short I got the heads off and the valve guide for the number 5 exhaust is very loose and therefore the valve is not seating. Im sleepy but ill get some pictures and go into more details tomorrow. In short both heads are going to get reworked with new valves, rockers, pushrods, and a typ4 cam

 

[RLDSL]

After having gone through a few of these heads I've learned a little trick on guides. If you have a good diesel machine shop and the guides are not so far shot that they are near into the base metal, they can usually pop in these neat little critters called false guides for a fraction of the cost of pressing in whole new guides. It just involves drilling out enough bad material to press in the insert and they work just as good, especialy if you plan on using a premium synthetic oil after the rebuild ( 70k miles on the oil in my last test sample and no high wear metals, and I went with positive valve guide seals on both the intake and exhaust instead of the umbrella guides on the exhaust that they switched back to , to prevent all the burned up exhaust guides that you get with dino oil

If the heads still have their original stainless freeze plugs in them, make sure the shop leaves them alone.
Consider getting a new set of valve springs. You are getting to the point where breakage starts to show up. No sense in risking it, they are not expensive.

Not so sure why you think you need to buy new valves unless they are horribly pitted or something. Personally any that haven't been in a bad guide, I'd reuse. It may take longer, but I prefer to hand lap them than to machine grind the things. You get a better seat.

If you end up having to take anything off the mating surface to clean it up, make sure to bring your intake manifold in and have it matched or you will have nightmares trying to get it to bolt on and get a seal.

 

[typ4]

If you are talking about guide liners aka ,Kliners, I wouldnt use one on a lawn mower. If it needs guides drill and ream for the fullsize cast iron or good bronze ones.

I would even ream for oversize stems before using guide liners.

 

[hesutton]

Jim, I just went through the heads on my 6.9 and the machine work cost wasn't too bad ($410.26). I really wanted the Manganese Bronze guides from Precision Engine Parts, but my machine shop didn't have the ability to put them in the heads. I used hardend cast iron guides. As far as Valves, you gotta be patient to find a good set at a good prices. I bought some Perfect Circle intakes for $75, stelittle faced EngineTech exhaust valves for $105, New Melling 7.3 rockers for $95.92 for a set of 8 (best price via Autozone.com). All my valves either had worn stems, burnt/pitted faced or both. I really like the valve seals with teflon rings as well.

Heath

 

[SparkandFire]

Jim - Thanks for posting the link to the video. I think I might have the same issue going on, I am going to track down a compression tester to see if it's valve related. I noticed after my engine developed the knock I have that it seems to be "puffing" blue smoke out the exhaust in time with the knock. Similar to what you have, but not as much. After pulling valve covers I noticed one rocker, farthest back on the passenger side was loose, not at the bolt connection but more like it wasn't under pressure from the lifter. I am debating pulling the heads and looking at the valves, and going through them while i've got them off.

So far I am going to do the cam/lifters/pushrods as well.

Keep us posted on what you find!

 

[typ4]

Jim, I just went through the heads on my 6.9 and the machine work cost wasn't too bad ($410.26). I really wanted the Manganese Bronze guides from Precision Engine Parts, but my machine shop didn't have the ability to put them in the heads. I used hardend cast iron guides. As far as Valves, you gotta be patient to find a good set at a good prices. I bought some Perfect Circle intakes for $75, stelittle faced EngineTech exhaust valves for $105, New Melling 7.3 rockers for $95.92 for a set of 8 (best price via Autozone.com). All my valves either had worn stems, burnt/pitted faced or both. I really like the valve seals with teflon rings as well.

Heath

were they just rockers or were they kits with the pivots?

And I have a supplier for the stellite faced and tipped stainless valves at good prices, They use the same material as the powerstroke builders.

 

[gatorman21218]

http://www.aetools.com/products/diagnostic-tools/diesel/compression.html

heres the tester I got. the adapter you want is TU-15-1A they sell an adapter with a tail on it but its expensive. What i did is bought a grease gun hose with 1/8NPT ends and a 1/8NPT coupler to extend the coupler on the tester. its a right angle that comes with it and it is hard to get it on the adapter with the inj. lines in the way.

Yeah Robert I am doing the springs too. guess I forgot to list that.

As for pulling the heads, on mine I couldnt tell anything was bad by looking at them. the only way I knew the valve was bad besides the compression test was to spray pb blaster in the exhaust port. It ran right out of the valve so I know it wasnt seating.

As for the machine shop I found one that does all the work for the local Case-IH dealer and I will let them decide which guides need to replaced. I dont think it should be too bad of a job since it looks good and the compression is so good.

The only part of the valve train I am going to reuse are the lifters. they all look good with no wear on the rollers or the pushrod seat. They are the needle type and Russ said it is perfectly fine to reuse them

 

[hesutton]

were they just rockers or were they kits with the pivots?

Autozone.com sells the Melling kit (part number MRK-650) which includes two rocker arms, two pivots, and the retainer for $11.99. That's a great price. Other sources want $30, $40, even $60+ per kit.

Heath

 

[gatorman21218]

are melling rockers good stuff? the federal mogal rockers are what carquest and napa sell and they want like 45 for the set

 

[typ4]

jim order those rockers, I cant touch that and My guy says the mellings are good. get the pushrods too.

 

[hesutton]

Forgot to mention I got the springs (comp 910's) for $81 from eBay. They (uspartsoutlet) still list them for that price.

Heath

 

[gatorman21218]

so I got her back together today!!!!! Ill post more pics and details later but I would like to give thanks to Russ for all the parts and Gary for all the advice and JD for the advice and being a good friend as well. Actually yall are all my friends but anyway.... I would like to thank my parents too for putting up with the 5,000 pieces of truck parts laying on the driveway. And especially my mom for picking up parts for me. She even picked the heads up from the machine shop while I was at work!