I'm sorry if this is a over asked question, but I was kicking around the idea of turning the pump up a little bit and just didn't know if it'd be ******* the truck. It has 317k on the clock. Thanks for the advice!
Turning up the injection pump
- Thread starter rellerman
- Start date
whats the truck?
what gauges do you have?
whats up with the minimum amount of info?
i bet you just wanna roll some coal
what gauges do you have?
whats up with the minimum amount of info?
i bet you just wanna roll some coal
1993 F250 7.3 factory turbo 5spd. No gauges yet, but that'll be next, before any performance mods. You're right though, I wouldn't mind a little black smoke, plus the little bit of added pep but nothing too excessive.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Its very easy to explain how to turn up the fuel but.. Doing so without a pyrometer and a boost gauge tells you nothing about where you are now. You may note be able to turn it up if the pyro shows your exhaust is already 1200 degrees hauling heavy.
You will need to make a special 5/32 allen wrench. What I did was figured out how short it needs to be but still be long enough to fit into the allen nut in the pump. I can get that dimension later for you. Then I hammered it into a socket with a 1/4 inch drive. You are best using a 1/4 inch breaker bar to turn up the fuel. Some feel they need to go all the way to the stop. Then slightly back it off so the plunger is not dead headed and ruins the pump. Now with 317 on the engine if this is the original pump and injectors please do not turn up the fuel. Reasons are your injectors and injection pump are worn out long ago. Replacing them will give you plenty of lost hp and mileage because of the well worn parts. At this mileage you are usually at the end of the engines useful life too. Figure another 150,000 miles and its best to rebuild or replace the engine. There is more to know about turning up the fuel but lets see how these questions get answered first. There are not secrets or special hand shakes you have to know to get the information either. Everyone ie equally here.
You will need to make a special 5/32 allen wrench. What I did was figured out how short it needs to be but still be long enough to fit into the allen nut in the pump. I can get that dimension later for you. Then I hammered it into a socket with a 1/4 inch drive. You are best using a 1/4 inch breaker bar to turn up the fuel. Some feel they need to go all the way to the stop. Then slightly back it off so the plunger is not dead headed and ruins the pump. Now with 317 on the engine if this is the original pump and injectors please do not turn up the fuel. Reasons are your injectors and injection pump are worn out long ago. Replacing them will give you plenty of lost hp and mileage because of the well worn parts. At this mileage you are usually at the end of the engines useful life too. Figure another 150,000 miles and its best to rebuild or replace the engine. There is more to know about turning up the fuel but lets see how these questions get answered first. There are not secrets or special hand shakes you have to know to get the information either. Everyone ie equally here.
For having 317k on the clock, she runs really well. Little bit of white smoke on startup, but goes away almost immediately. The idle is nice and smooth, and doesn't skip a beat. This is my first diesel, but it seems pretty quick to me after the way everyone talks about how slow an IDI is
What color is the pump and injectors?
Also, so you don't have to type it every time. If you goto the UserCP and select Edit Signature, you can place the info in the signature, like most of us have listed......
Also, so you don't have to type it every time. If you goto the UserCP and select Edit Signature, you can place the info in the signature, like most of us have listed......
backwards.always get a pyro first.of course it could be ******* the truck.otherwise how ya gunn know if your running EGT's in the safe zone? you could burn your engine up without even seeing black coming out of the exhaust pipe pulling a long enough grade,hot and long enough.
first the gauge,then more air,and always last,more fuel.
far more of a performance gain will be ditching that factory down pipe for a free flowing,uncrushed one than adding any amount of fuel will do.
TOO MUCH FUEL =
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turbo elk
Full Access Member
Does anyone have a picture of were the timing gear position is when the Allen screw is in the right spot to adjust it?
I had a bunch of stuff printed off the computer, but have found that the wife has "tossed it in the recycling bin" put it away.
I had a bunch of stuff printed off the computer, but have found that the wife has "tossed it in the recycling bin" put it away.
hey,that should have been moved to the tech section.
rather than remove the inspection cover (oil fill tube on early engines) i simply turn the crank so the timing line on the balancer is at about 1 o'clock.if the screw isn't there,just rotate back around and there she be.
no need to get out the RTV.
turbo elk
Full Access Member
Thanks KZF250 and FORDF250HDXLT that was exactly what I was looking for.
Smoke sucks it is NOT cool it IS STUPIDILY WASTING FUEL BECAUSE OF Pen15 envy
FarmerFrank
Full Access Member
Please, tell us how you really feel about this subject... And don't hold back this time...
Just pickin on ya Al.
Honestly you just want a hint of black when you gun it. Anything beyond that is a waste.
turbo elk
Full Access Member
2 years ago I had to turn my fuel down just over one turn so I could pass DEQ and thought it was stupid to be turning it up and down twice a year.
