turbo/firewall clearance issue

rhkcommander

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Posts
2,603
Reaction score
90
Location
Oregon
turbo/firewall clearance issue (Pics Added)

trying to put new engine in with turbo installed. it hits firewall before oilpan passes crossmember. specifically the cowl duct region.

do i beat the firewall to hell or what? ive heard of people cutting notches in the hump to mash it up more for downpipe clearance..

or loosen or take out body cab mounts and jack it up?

should the bell house be installed? i have it installed.

Thanks. its ready to go. also do i need to stab holes in valley pan and where? it looks like there is a grommet next to the turbo drain i put in IIRC
 
Last edited:

rhkcommander

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Posts
2,603
Reaction score
90
Location
Oregon
tempted to buzz out part of the cowl duct crap, pushing it outta the way. i heard loosening the cab bolts could allow me to push cab back further on frame too. that would do it i think. what do you guys think?
 

turbo elk

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2009
Posts
426
Reaction score
1
Location
Vancouver, Wa.
leave the bellhousing off and lower itinto place... and or take the radiator support out if you have to.
 

rhkcommander

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Posts
2,603
Reaction score
90
Location
Oregon
support is out. i will try bellhouse off, do i just bolt it to trans instead? seems hard to get at turbo pedistal but ill check it out. would make it easier if i can get at it
 

79jasper

Chickenhawk
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Posts
17,367
Reaction score
1,930
Location
Collinsville, Oklahoma
Also all new valley pans are turbo spec.
So if it's original to a pre turbo engine, may need to knock some holes in it.

Definitely pull the turbo.
 

rhkcommander

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Posts
2,603
Reaction score
90
Location
Oregon
Any way to tell, other than see if it gets messy? Lol

Alright ill pull it. Gonnahave to think about an easier way to get to the turbos mountnuts. Maybe it won be so bad since the threads are cleaner.
 

Leeland

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2011
Posts
951
Reaction score
84
Location
Oregon
Run a ATS 093 so a little different boat then the sidewinder with it's placement so what I did with turbo installed probably won't work out the same.
As far as notching the lip for the DP, should have done that engine out. Still doable, it was just soo much easier with out the engine in place. Gained a good bit of clearance doing it. Posted a pic in my crew cab thread.
 
Last edited:

riotwarrior

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Posts
14,778
Reaction score
483
Location
Cawston BC. Canada
OK is the clip off front of truck? meaning fenders and rad support?

Ya unbolting the the cab can and will make it simpler but so would removing turbo as well.

Good luck and btw

WHY NO PICTURES
 

rhkcommander

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Posts
2,603
Reaction score
90
Location
Oregon
Rad support is out, left fenders on. I think i will try turbo out first and wrestling with putting it back on first. If that fails ill take fenders off n unbolt cab enough to get clearance.

Pictures are in my other (dead) thread :)
 

ToughOldFord

The Cold Glow-Plug
Joined
Sep 30, 2007
Posts
663
Reaction score
1
Location
City of Shasta Lake, Ca.
I just did mine. Even with the complete front clip off there was no way the engine was going in with the turbo on. I had to remove it, install engine and transmission, reinstall turbo.

Makes sense when you think about it, it's so friggen tight back there when it's all together there's no way that turbo could clear coming in or out. Of course I did try and learned the hard way.
 

rhkcommander

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Posts
2,603
Reaction score
90
Location
Oregon
turbo is off, modified the heat shield - it completely blocks the top passenger-side bolt. So i dremeled and used a high speed metal cutting air-tool to nip off enough to have clearance. While I was at it I removed the lift point on the intake here because it got in the way some too though not as much. Left one bolt in the turbo/downpipe so I could rotate it out of the way and lift turbo off the remaining 3 studs.

Soo... Bell housing - can I do it with turbo on now, or do I mount it to the trans or what? I almost had the input shaft of the trans in the bell housing last night with the turbo hitting the firewall - with me pushing the trans up and a buddy lowering the engine from above.
 

rhkcommander

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Posts
2,603
Reaction score
90
Location
Oregon
wow. much better without turbo.

Jacked the trans up, left bell housing on engine as per an engine manual i found.

Almost got it in alone, just cant get input shaft in alone or I'd be done installing engine. Will have to wait for friend to come help.
 

riotwarrior

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Posts
14,778
Reaction score
483
Location
Cawston BC. Canada
You can either bolt the bell housing to the block and trans to that or.... to the trans and bolt assembly to engine, which is the normal route.

Al
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,344
Posts
1,130,708
Members
24,143
Latest member
Cv axle
Top