Truck is off the drugs!

[The Warden]

This is a continuation of the thread I started last night, but I figured I'd start a new thread for this...

About 20 minutes ago, for the first time in over a year, I cold-started my IDI without using ether. The "new" controller I got from towcat seems to be working...although I think there are a few bugs left.

On the 7.3l system, is one glow plug cycle normal on a cold engine in 60 degree weather? Every time I apply power to the controller, it only cycles the plugs once...and not for very long at at that. There was also no "after-glow" period after the engine was started, like the 6.9l system did. Is this normal? The truck seemed to start okay...but, for future reference, it'd be nice to make it work properly if there is something wrong.

I also have to figure out how to wire the WTS light, but that's a can of worms I'll open later...

I still got work to do, but at least the engine runs now

 

[Exekiel69]

This is a continuation of the thread I started last night, but I figured I'd start a new thread for this...

About 20 minutes ago, for the first time in over a year, I cold-started my IDI without using ether. The "new" controller I got from towcat seems to be working...although I think there are a few bugs left.

On the 7.3l system, is one glow plug cycle normal on a cold engine in 60 degree weather? Every time I apply power to the controller, it only cycles the plugs once...and not for very long at at that. There was also no "after-glow" period after the engine was started, like the 6.9l system did. Is this normal? The truck seemed to start okay...but, for future reference, it'd be nice to make it work properly if there is something wrong.

I also have to figure out how to wire the WTS light, but that's a can of worms I'll open later...

I still got work to do, but at least the engine runs now

I cycle mine only one time even on low 20f or less and it will start just fine.

 

[OkieGringo]

Mine starts fine on just one cycle down into the 20*s now that I have 15w-40 Rotella in it. OkieGringo

 

[Freight_Train]

on the 7.3 solid state system the glow plugs to a continuous burn for 6-10 seconds then after that they go into booster mode where it clicks them on and off for roughly 10-15 seconds(never timed it so I might be off).With a correctly working system on my 94 I could crank it with one burn in the single digits.

 

[The Warden]

Okay, it sounds like I have an issue...not sure what, but I'm currently using an "old' controller, so maybe that has something to do with it? Or, maybe the controller doesn't like the 8 individual fused wires going to each plug. I don't see any reason why my setup wouldn't work (other than the circuirty seeing something that's not there, or not seeing something that is?), but it isn't orthodox.

Tonight, with a cold engine and temperatures in the high 40's, I turned the key on, and it sounded like the relay clicked on for about 3 or 4 seconds, then clicked off and stayed off. The engine then did not start after about 5 seconds of cranking. I turned the key off, then back on, and after letting the plugs cycle a second time, the engine started after cranking for 3 or 4 seconds...

 

[Hoss6.9]

WTS worms!

Hey Warden!

When I did my retro I hooked the WTS (blue wire at the old relay on the right inner fender) to the test terminal on the SS controller and it works fine. apparently mine cycles a little different though. When I turn on the key it lights for about 20 seconds+- and then goes into the "boost" mode and it starts below 20 degrees every time!?

Just my experience and $.02....

Thought it might help!?


Hoss6.9

 

[DeepRoots]

sometimes you can't hear my glowplugs actually click.
try them out at night, turn the headlight on first.... even tho you can't hear them click, the lights should dim.

 

[akoldnav]

Warden, make sure the glow plug wires are actually making good contact with the glow plugs. I was amazed at how bad my wiring harness was before I replaced it. Three of my glow plug wires were so loose that they actually came off the glow plugs. It acted exactly as you just described.

Hope you get it working without too much expense or trouble.

akoldnav

 

[The Warden]

I custom-made the wiring harness...to the best of my knowledge, I've got good connections all around. I tested each individual wire, and it seemed okay (I disconnected each wire at the fuse, and ohmed out the wires with the plugs attached, so the ohmmeter was testing the plug, through the wire, to ground...and the numbers looked right). And, while I didn't have the headlights on, I could see the interior light dim with the plugs being on...and it got bright after the first brief cycle and didn't get dim again.

Hoss, I must be remembering wrong...I thought you said in your article that you hooked the WTS light up and it didn't work? When you say "test terminal", how do you mean? I assume you're talking about the blue wire with the weather connection on the controller...now, does that wire send a 12 volt signal out to the light, or does it complete a ground? I put an ohmmeter on it, and didn't see 12 volts out of it or continuity with ground with the controller powered and working...?

 

[Hoss6.9]

WTS Light!

Hey Warden!

I did say in there that I hooked up to the blue wire with the weatherpack plug on it and that didn't make it work. It does take 12 volts to make the light in our dashes come on. I hooked it to the terminal on the top where all of the connections are. It is the connection with the ZZZZZ spring thing that has something to do with sensing the heat and duration of the glow plugs cycle that goes down toward the bottom. As I said - I hooked mine up on the top end of that connection and there is 12 volts there that will turn your WTS light on and off as the GP's cycle. It has seemed to function fine for the time that I have had mine done!!!???? Hope this helps!!!!
If you would like to talk about it give me a call @ 260-367-2203 and I will gladly give my run down on the phone!!!!

Hoss6.9....

 

[The Warden]

Oh, okay...so you currently have it set up as a "glow plug on" light instead of a WTS light. I'm hoping to get it to work like the factory 7.3l setup would, with the light staying on until the controller thinks it's warm enough to start the engine. OTOH, it seems like my controller isn't cycling the plugs enough... *sigh* Could this be an issue with the controller, or did I do something wrong?

 

[Hoss6.9]

SS GP controller pic.!

Hey Warden!

See if this picture helps!!!!????

Hoss....

 

[Hoss6.9]

SS GP retro.

Hey Warden!

My WTS light works just like it did with the old system did! It comes on when you turn on the key and off when the controller runs it's duration and then flickers in the "boost" mode. The temp. part of it as far as when to turn them off and on is another system. I'd have to go out and look, but it is hooked up thru that temp. sensor towards the front of the intake! Let me know if you want me to go out and check it out for yas!

As far as the controller not cycling the GP's! I don't know! I'm guessing that the controller might be bad!!???????? I guess though that the less amount of plugs that are working it means shorter duration for the GP's. So I don't know.. Were the GP's new? I did see a 7.3 possibly PSD GP harness on ebay a little bit ago!???? Don't remember the cost! I would have liked to have made my own wire harness to try, but I bought that IH kit instead! Your case has got me puzzled though! I wish we were closer so that we could look at it together. Then again - Maybe you wouldn't want me starin' at you either! I wish I could be more of a help to ya!


Hoss....

 

[sle2115]

Temperature Sensing

The solid state system does not use a temperature sensing device, the glow plugs are the sensing system. Straight from the Ford manual "The solid state system determines glow plug temperature by electronically measuring the resistance of the glow plug, and maintains that temperature regardless of ambient air temperature. "

I have the testing procedures, which include the wiring diagram from the 87 6.9 solid state system scanned into a .pdf and .doc file. Either is about 1.57 MB and I can email them to you if it will help. The data comes directly from a Ford service manual. Email or PM me if you want a copy.

Have you measured resistance across your fuses? I wonder if they had a slight resistance (which they probably do) if it would not influence this measurement. If the controller sees higher/lower resistance, it will short cycle. I had one glow plug bad and mine shortened up about 2 seconds or so compared to when I replaced them. The ones that were in it were Champions and were replaced with Beru per everyone's recommendation. I haven't even considered looking back. At 0 or lower, my truck seems to cycle the wait to start light (and the weather pack terminal grounds this light) seems to stay on forever. Once it goes out, my engine probably doesn't turn 1/2 of a revolution and is running. I love this system.
Scott

 

[The Warden]

My WTS light works just like it did with the old system did! It comes on when you turn on the key and off when the controller runs it's duration and then flickers in the "boost" mode. The temp. part of it as far as when to turn them off and on is another system. I'd have to go out and look, but it is hooked up thru that temp. sensor towards the front of the intake! Let me know if you want me to go out and check it out for yas!

That's the first I've heard of a temp sensor connected to the controller in any way. I was under the impression that the 7.3l system didn't read coolant temp like the 6.9l system does. Yes, please take a look!! Maybe this explains why it isn't cycling properly as well?

As far as the controller not cycling the GP's! I don't know! I'm guessing that the controller might be bad!!???????? I guess though that the less amount of plugs that are working it means shorter duration for the GP's. So I don't know.. Were the GP's new?

Yes, all 8 plugs are brand-new bullet-connector plugs. I have a 12 gauge wire, with a 20 amp slow-blow fuse inline, running to each plug, with 8 wires coming off the controller (and getting the nut on top was quite the challenge). I can't rule out the possibility of a bad controller, but I was under the impression that the solid-state controllers don't fail very often (this is part of why I went this route). I got the controller used from towcat; can't remember if he had tested it or knew if it worked properly before pulling it out of the truck it was in.


Thank you very much for all of your help!!