squoril
Registered User
Flew home for Christmas this last year and got a KDP job from my sister in law for new years 
Please remember i am a helicopter mechanic by trade and an auto mechanic by shade so all of this is just advice, do what ever you want to do.
It went pretty smooth but a few things i would have liked to know that ill put here for the next guy
Impact gun needed (lucky i had one) is very much help for zipping off everything
Drain the coolant and pull all the rads, AC condenser can be hung down but careful on the lines
Your supposed to install the timing cover and then install the seal but i installed the seal on the bench because i didnt read good, no leaks so far YMMV.
The big one. you dont need to pull the cam with all that entails but you need some tools, it can save you time
FIRST THING: witness stripe everything! one tooth on the cam gear and two teeth on the crank then TWO teeth on the cam gear and ONE tooth on the P-Pump gear. and take HD pictures of everything clean the gears where you stripe with brake cleaner so the stripe will stick, use a xylene based paint pen to mark it.
IT IS EXTREMELY important to get a perfect stripe on the P-Pump shaft to gear because when the P-Pump shaft turns like it did on me that stripe is all you have to get the timing right without any other tools, the stripe on the nut lets you know when its on tight enough
SECOND THING: pull the lift pump. when you install the gear someone with a long screwdriver will need to be prying on the lift pump lobe trying to push it out the front so when your hammering the cam gear back on the cam shaft doesn't slide back and pop the plug out the back of the engine and now you get to pull the transmission
A steering wheel puller (Autozone P/N: 27017) will get the P-Pump gear off. you will need longer bolts, take one of the timing cover bolts to the store because they have the same thread (get grade 10, 8 might work) it pulls right off but pops loose with a nice bang and tried to fall on the ground so be ready to catch it
To get the Cam gear off you need a chicken foot puller dont forget to lube the threads and rotating tip so you dont bread stuff, dont try a 3 jaw puller they dont fit, 3 inch long bolts with washers to hold them on the puller and a set of 1/8" thick washers that are just larger than the web holes in the cam gear so they have to go in at an angle (ill try and find the ones i used to give you a parts list) washers and bot head go towards the cam so you can get them in place and the put the nut on the puller side, 3 hands is very helpful for this
Get the washers tucked under the center lip of the cam gear as far as you can the other end will be resting on the other side of the web hole
i heated the cam gear up with a heat gun for 5 minutes then started pulling, sprayed liquid canned air on the cam shaft more tension , more liquid air, more tension tell it started moving then just pulled it the rest of the way off
Now for the hard part, Reinstallation
took me 3 tries the first 2 i dont thing we heated the gear up enough
clean the gear very well so your not smoking oil dont forget to renew your marks after you clean it, i used locktite and RTV hi temp and nail polish just to make sure one would make it through the locktite was all i needed
if you dont have an oven in the shop and dont want to just put it in a toaster oven on broil try this
get your wifes dutch oven or if you dont like sleeping on the couch get a cheap one at a thrift store. what were doing here is getting a heavy metal container that holds a lot of heat to keep the gear at temp while we run down to the shop. bake at 350-375 for an hour and a half to get it nice and heat soaked, DO NOT put the lid on the dutch oven all the way leave it half way off so the gear will be exposed to the heat
once the cook time is almost done take a full can of air and turn it upside down and slowly spray all of it on the cam shaft and 4 inches radius around it to chill it. now this is very important; do not go get the gear till the camshaft has warmed up enough you can wipe all the ice off and it will not refreeze put a light weight oil that wont get too thick and use a very thin coat
crunch time; get your third hand set up with the screwdriver in the lift pump hole to brace the cam shaft
cam shaft is cool but not iced and a thin layer of light oil is on
wrap the dutch oven in a trash towel to insulate it a bit and run it down to the shop get your welding gloves on the ones i had gave me 15 seconds of protection on a 600 degree fireplace so you have a good 20-30 seconds you can hold the gear, might be a good idea to practice this before you heat the gear,
open the dutch oven and grab the gear in the general way its going to go on
hold it at an angle so you can get the teeth timed right on the crank without it draining heat on the cam shaft
now rotating it to slide it onto the cam shaft watch to make sure the teeth are timed right and as soon as it starts to slip onto the camshaft SLAM IT HOME AS HARD AND AS FAST AS YOU CAN YOU HAVE SECONDS
now beat on it with a 2 lb brass hammer (only use brass or rubber) if its not seated all the way, you now have at best 2 seconds before its locked
for me it slid all the way home when i pushed it on
double check your marks to make sure you got the gears meshed right
now you can put the P-Pump gear back on, if you have the tools to time it you know what to do
if you dont have the tools check your marks you made, if you wiped them off or forgot to make them you get to buy the tools. put the P-Pump gear on and loosely put on the washer and nut so the gear can turn but the shaft wont, now bar over the engine till the marks line up, get a good square look on it from a foot away you want to get the line on the gear to be just ever so slightly behind (counter clockwise) the shaft mark, and by that i mean it looks like they are lined up but if it was off in one direction it would be in the counterclockwise direction. this will ensure that your timing is the same as it was but if your off at all it will be in the advanced direction by 1 or 2 degrees (DONT USE THIS TO INTENTIONALLY ADVANCE YOUR TIMING GET THE REAL TOOLS, GETTING AS CLOSE TO PERFECT THIS WAY COULD STILL HAVE YOU OFF 2 DEGREES)
I hope my rambling word stew helps someone out
Have a good one guys
Squoril
Please remember i am a helicopter mechanic by trade and an auto mechanic by shade so all of this is just advice, do what ever you want to do.
You must be registered for see images attach
It went pretty smooth but a few things i would have liked to know that ill put here for the next guy
Impact gun needed (lucky i had one) is very much help for zipping off everything
Drain the coolant and pull all the rads, AC condenser can be hung down but careful on the lines
Your supposed to install the timing cover and then install the seal but i installed the seal on the bench because i didnt read good, no leaks so far YMMV.
The big one. you dont need to pull the cam with all that entails but you need some tools, it can save you time
FIRST THING: witness stripe everything! one tooth on the cam gear and two teeth on the crank then TWO teeth on the cam gear and ONE tooth on the P-Pump gear. and take HD pictures of everything clean the gears where you stripe with brake cleaner so the stripe will stick, use a xylene based paint pen to mark it.
You must be registered for see images attach
IT IS EXTREMELY important to get a perfect stripe on the P-Pump shaft to gear because when the P-Pump shaft turns like it did on me that stripe is all you have to get the timing right without any other tools, the stripe on the nut lets you know when its on tight enough
SECOND THING: pull the lift pump. when you install the gear someone with a long screwdriver will need to be prying on the lift pump lobe trying to push it out the front so when your hammering the cam gear back on the cam shaft doesn't slide back and pop the plug out the back of the engine and now you get to pull the transmission
A steering wheel puller (Autozone P/N: 27017) will get the P-Pump gear off. you will need longer bolts, take one of the timing cover bolts to the store because they have the same thread (get grade 10, 8 might work) it pulls right off but pops loose with a nice bang and tried to fall on the ground so be ready to catch it
To get the Cam gear off you need a chicken foot puller dont forget to lube the threads and rotating tip so you dont bread stuff, dont try a 3 jaw puller they dont fit, 3 inch long bolts with washers to hold them on the puller and a set of 1/8" thick washers that are just larger than the web holes in the cam gear so they have to go in at an angle (ill try and find the ones i used to give you a parts list) washers and bot head go towards the cam so you can get them in place and the put the nut on the puller side, 3 hands is very helpful for this
Get the washers tucked under the center lip of the cam gear as far as you can the other end will be resting on the other side of the web hole
i heated the cam gear up with a heat gun for 5 minutes then started pulling, sprayed liquid canned air on the cam shaft more tension , more liquid air, more tension tell it started moving then just pulled it the rest of the way off
Now for the hard part, Reinstallation
took me 3 tries the first 2 i dont thing we heated the gear up enough
clean the gear very well so your not smoking oil dont forget to renew your marks after you clean it, i used locktite and RTV hi temp and nail polish just to make sure one would make it through the locktite was all i needed
if you dont have an oven in the shop and dont want to just put it in a toaster oven on broil try this
get your wifes dutch oven or if you dont like sleeping on the couch get a cheap one at a thrift store. what were doing here is getting a heavy metal container that holds a lot of heat to keep the gear at temp while we run down to the shop. bake at 350-375 for an hour and a half to get it nice and heat soaked, DO NOT put the lid on the dutch oven all the way leave it half way off so the gear will be exposed to the heat
once the cook time is almost done take a full can of air and turn it upside down and slowly spray all of it on the cam shaft and 4 inches radius around it to chill it. now this is very important; do not go get the gear till the camshaft has warmed up enough you can wipe all the ice off and it will not refreeze put a light weight oil that wont get too thick and use a very thin coat
crunch time; get your third hand set up with the screwdriver in the lift pump hole to brace the cam shaft
cam shaft is cool but not iced and a thin layer of light oil is on
wrap the dutch oven in a trash towel to insulate it a bit and run it down to the shop get your welding gloves on the ones i had gave me 15 seconds of protection on a 600 degree fireplace so you have a good 20-30 seconds you can hold the gear, might be a good idea to practice this before you heat the gear,
open the dutch oven and grab the gear in the general way its going to go on
hold it at an angle so you can get the teeth timed right on the crank without it draining heat on the cam shaft
now rotating it to slide it onto the cam shaft watch to make sure the teeth are timed right and as soon as it starts to slip onto the camshaft SLAM IT HOME AS HARD AND AS FAST AS YOU CAN YOU HAVE SECONDS
now beat on it with a 2 lb brass hammer (only use brass or rubber) if its not seated all the way, you now have at best 2 seconds before its locked
for me it slid all the way home when i pushed it on
double check your marks to make sure you got the gears meshed right
now you can put the P-Pump gear back on, if you have the tools to time it you know what to do
if you dont have the tools check your marks you made, if you wiped them off or forgot to make them you get to buy the tools. put the P-Pump gear on and loosely put on the washer and nut so the gear can turn but the shaft wont, now bar over the engine till the marks line up, get a good square look on it from a foot away you want to get the line on the gear to be just ever so slightly behind (counter clockwise) the shaft mark, and by that i mean it looks like they are lined up but if it was off in one direction it would be in the counterclockwise direction. this will ensure that your timing is the same as it was but if your off at all it will be in the advanced direction by 1 or 2 degrees (DONT USE THIS TO INTENTIONALLY ADVANCE YOUR TIMING GET THE REAL TOOLS, GETTING AS CLOSE TO PERFECT THIS WAY COULD STILL HAVE YOU OFF 2 DEGREES)
I hope my rambling word stew helps someone out
Have a good one guys
Squoril
