Timing 6.9 with meter

[pastorjeep]

I am going to post the results of using the rental timing meter from Gary/icanfixall on a 84 F250 6.9. More to come!

 

[icanfixall]

I will be watching and also will be available if you call with questions too. Thanks for the updates.
Did you fix the gear timing yet... If not your better off doing it later this week when you recieve the replacement injection pump you otdered. That way all you have to do is remove the bad pump and install the new pump.. After you have removed the gear cover and set the gear correctly like we talked about on the phone. The most difficult part of changing the gear timing is finding number 1 cylinder top dead center. When the dampner marks are aligned your either correct or 180 degrees out. Then removing the front small diamond shaped cover or the 6.9 oil fil spout will tell you if your zeroed out or off by 180 by the placement of the drive dowel in the injection pump gear. It must be approx the 4 o clock postion. If its at the 11 o clock position your 180 out and need to turn the crank one more full turn. The crnak tyruns twice to one turn of the cam and injection pump gear. Thats bcause the crank gear is half the size of the cam & injection pump gears.

 

[pastorjeep]

Thanks Gary, you are a wealth of knowledge. Alright so I started by timing the old pump while waiting for the new to come in. Well my old pump was at -5.5 degrees. Wow, talk about retarded. So I started adjusting it to the passenger side and finally ran out of room to turn the pump! The fast idle solenoid is resting against the radiator hose That got me up to 5.3 BTDC. It seems like a different truck. Before on the interstate I would floor it and it would slow but steady gain speed, not really accelerate but gain speed. Now when merging in traffic or getting on and on-ramp I have found myself hitting seventy before I know it. Fuel mileage seems better also, though no odo readings to back that up yet. Now what Gary was just talking about was pulling the pump cover and resetting the gear because he believes that I am a tooth off. That is why I moved the pump almost an inch but am still only at 5.3 BTDC. Tomorrow I am going to confirm the timing marks while I am waiting for a new gear cover from cpdenton.

 

[icanfixall]

Really happy to help you out figureing out this gear timing issue. The worst part of changing the gear timing is finding #1 top dead center but looking at me gear timing pics you can see what the gears MUST look like when they are correctly aligned. See the drive pin in the injection pump gear at the 4 o clock position and the bottom drive bolt hole. Thats what the gear must look like. Now remove the gear. Scribe a line from the top of the gear down thru the bottom drive bolt hole. The line will end up at the "Y" of the gear timing mark. Now set the gear back in the front of the engine timing gear area. Place a square on the top of the timing gear cover plate or as some call it the water pump plate. See that the square and the line are correctly lined up. Job is done. Simple way to know your gear timing is correct. Much of this I learned from several others on this site and some I made up on my own but its fool proof. When the crank dampner is lined up on the short probe location its at either #1 tdc or 180 degrees out from there. What tells you its at tdc is the location of the injection pump gear drive pin at the 4 o clock position. If it off just a little that proves the gear timing is fubared by someone that knew nothing bout gear timing. This is a common issue with some shops or owners changing the injection pumps by removing the pump. Gear cover and the gear as one piece. When they do that they realize the big mistake they have made. If they try to reset the pump and gear and cover they can't see the timing marks so there is no way they know its down correctly. they they start up the engine and realize the timing is way off so they advance the pump till it runs out of travel. Sure way to know its wrong.

 

[pastorjeep]

Okay, got pump yesterday and decided to go out after the kids went to bed and start the dis assembly to make things quicker today. The plan was to put in the reman IP and new lift pump today. While I was getting the lines swap from one IP to the other the pump housing came in the mail from cpdenton! So now the ole girl has new glows, fresh injectors, new lift pump, new return lines, and fresh IP.

 

[pastorjeep]

In case anyone missed it this all started with some PD injectors last week, five of my original Bb inj were leaking badly. Two were still bubbling after sitting all night

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[pastorjeep]

As you can imagine replacing the 30yr old injectors really helped, but then I rented the timing meter from Gary and that took things to the next level of performance even with only reaching 5.5 BTDC it really made the injector swap payoff. Gary let me hang onto the meter while waiting for my new IP. Wanted to make sure it was installed right the first time. I ordered a pump from O'Reilly's that was a BWD reman.

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[cpdenton]

Did you get the gear cover? Showing it was delivered. Hope all goes well with the new fuel system.

*edit*
Haha. Come on self, read all the posts. Glad it made it.

 

[pastorjeep]

Chris I received while I was taking the lift pump off today, man I was glad Tach is working great. Thanks for moving quickly to get it to me!

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[cpdenton]

Glad that tach sensor worked. I have never tested that one, and didn't have time to swap it into my truck to try it out. I wanted to get it out to tou ASAP so hopefully it would get to you today. Sounds like you are going in the right direction.

 

[pastorjeep]

So I got the IP and lift pump installed and all timed up (thanks Gary). I installed the IP straight up and what do you know it was at 9.2! Woo Hoo, man was I excited. Funny thing was how I freaked out the first time I heard the engine on cold advance. Wow that was loud I thought it was going to come apart even my seven year old son said "dad what is wrong with your truck". Throttle response is crisp and it idles at just over 600 rpm. I confess I miss the quite of the retarded engine, but the performance is night and day different. I started seeing a ton of white smoke after the pump install and thought it must be the injectors because i couldn't think of anything else, even though these are rebuilt inj just installed last week. The first three I pulled were soaking wet and still bubbling and dripping! I replaced them with my three best old inj and am waiting for a new set now. Runs great, but starts hard because it looses prime overnight with the leaking inj. It will start right up for three seconds and then I have to hold the pedal down and crank on it to get it to start. That really stinks because this truck has always started on the first revolution.

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[pastorjeep]

another shot of the pump

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[icanfixall]

Thanks for the compliments Eric. Your starts and dies off might be from the feed line from the filter to the injection pump olives in both ends being hard and not making a good seal on the line. they are available at most injection pump repair shops. they are the 5/16 size. On the inlet side of the filter head there is another olive and thats a 3/8 inch line size. Thses engines do come wawake when they are timed correctly. The new cold advance sounds tells me .."Hay, I'm ready to work. Lets get to it bud"...!!! So how far off was the injection pump gear timing. I bet it was one tooth off the cam gear marks.

 

[NitroBlazer]

Is it possible to use the 078-00100 meter on a 7.3? Service manual calls for a 00200 but they work the same other than the 00200 has a pulse clip instead of a lumocity probe right?

 

[ToughOldFord]

Old thread I know, but not a one of those attachments work.