Waystro
No Class
Works now. That's a good price.
the worst engineering part of your Ford?
- Thread starter IDIoit
- Start date
direwulf23
Full Access Member
Considering one crappy plastic Dorman handle runs about $10 at auto stores.
Wolf Security Hardware on Ebay (green picture) will make you one for about $35.00. Send him a good digital picture of your key, and he will ship you an ignition lock cylinder that fits your key, with 2 new keys. Takes less than 5 minutes to change.
I am new to the site, so I might not be doing this post right.
1994 F350 Crew cab dually
oztinker47
Registered User
The Dana 50 Ifs front axle
Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk
gandalf
Senior Member
That's a double-cut key, isn't it? Cut on both sides? Take a new blank and cut the ignition on one side and the door lock on the other side. I think that works. You just have to be careful which side is up when you stick it in.
FYI - Info on the Metal Door Handles..
The Metal Door Handles are the factory handles for the 80-86 F-Series and Bronco's...... might make finding them a bit easier. I agree the plastic ones are a HORRIBLE idea. Not in an F-Series, but I had an 88 Taurus Wagon that had the STUPID pull type plastic door handles (they worked in the same motion as the trucks) and I think I pulled 2 or 3 out of the door during the time I owned it.... Never broke a metal one in the 83 F-150 we had...... At least in the newer Fords they have changed the design again, and most are a "flapper" design you pull with your fingertips, so the force on them is different, plus both sides of the handle are supported, rather than just the single point like on the trucks......
Just to show what they look like, here is a picture of an 80-86 inside door handle in an OBS IDI.....
The Metal Door Handles are the factory handles for the 80-86 F-Series and Bronco's...... might make finding them a bit easier. I agree the plastic ones are a HORRIBLE idea. Not in an F-Series, but I had an 88 Taurus Wagon that had the STUPID pull type plastic door handles (they worked in the same motion as the trucks) and I think I pulled 2 or 3 out of the door during the time I owned it.... Never broke a metal one in the 83 F-150 we had...... At least in the newer Fords they have changed the design again, and most are a "flapper" design you pull with your fingertips, so the force on them is different, plus both sides of the handle are supported, rather than just the single point like on the trucks......
Just to show what they look like, here is a picture of an 80-86 inside door handle in an OBS IDI.....
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direwulf23
Full Access Member
The one part of my truck I actually hate.whats a D50 TTB? oah yea, those things on 3/4 tons that i scrap
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Towcat explained this "clip: to me and suggests getting a spare from the pick n pull before I started this job. He was correct. That damn clip took to life and disappeared when it came off. I never did find it either.
kubotaorange76
Registered User
the front shackle design,
Fuel tank selector valve
Fuel tank selector valve
both have been deleted on my rig!
Great topic. I love my IDI don't get me wrong but there are a handful of things that make me want to beat my head on a wall 
Throttle cable. The routing is complete nonsense
Headlight circuit. Everyone should have relays on their IDI. EVERYONE.
The ignition switch linkage. Holy crap really???
Everything fuel system related. Every single piece of it.
Carriage bolts holding the bed on. Ever tried removing these when the nut is seized and the head just spins? You can't just cut the head off and drive it through that would be way too easy...
Honorable mention:
21 bolts holding the water pump on
Rear brakes needing constant adjustment
Knees bumping into the window down button while driving (brick nose trucks)
Throttle cable. The routing is complete nonsense
Headlight circuit. Everyone should have relays on their IDI. EVERYONE.
The ignition switch linkage. Holy crap really???
Everything fuel system related. Every single piece of it.
Carriage bolts holding the bed on. Ever tried removing these when the nut is seized and the head just spins? You can't just cut the head off and drive it through that would be way too easy...
Honorable mention:
21 bolts holding the water pump on
Rear brakes needing constant adjustment
Knees bumping into the window down button while driving (brick nose trucks)
Last edited:
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
I would probably say the e40h no transmission that everyone has problems with, the hood seal that always seems to let water inside intake when it rains, the old style 6v (early 6.9) gp design, fuel tank shower heads that always seem to snap off, ignition assembly unreliability, 7.3 Idi style valve stem seals that don't provide sufficient lubrication to valves/guides causing premature wear, 7.3 Idi engines with thin cylinder walls (potential cavitation if SCA's aren't maintained), 7.3 Idi cylinder heads (rear water passages blocked off which may cause overheating problems), 6.9 Idi heavy cast iron flex plate (prone to cracking), 6.9 Idi camshaft gear (not balanced), early 6.9 Idi press-in oil squirters, 6.9 Idi weak head bolts, 6.9 Idi water seperator, etc.
However, there are more pros than cons with these old trucks IMO.
However, there are more pros than cons with these old trucks IMO.
Yes, this works very well. Dad did this on his 94 E-150 and ran it that way for about a decade.... or more..... Also, on his van, you put the key in the same way for either the locks or the ignition. The door lock the tumblers were on one side of the key, and the ignition was on the other side. I've even heard of people with multiple Ford's grinding 1 key for 2 vehicles (won't work on the newer PATS system) and only have to carry 1 key for their vehicles.......
Pervert
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