temporarily converting a turbo'd 7.3 IDI to naturally aspirated

[Papabear]

The turbo was on the way out and so I figured I would just park my 7.3IDI buy a rebuild kit than pull the engine and rebuild it in my mud room as a winter project than my wife informed me last week that she had bought a
29' fifth wheel travel trailer in Aldergrove, B.C. wich is 18hrs away from where we are so i have pulled the turbo and the downtubes now my concern is that the turbo had an external oil line which pushes oil through the cartidge than it returns to the engine now my first question is if i plug off the high pressure oil line will I cause issues for engine lubrication or should I build a temporary circuit for the oil in essence to replace the turbo and also I am having trouble finding an air cleaner assembly for my truck as naturally aspirated

 

[towcat]

you will not cause any harm to the system by plugging off the the feed line to the turbo. outside of a air cleaner and a exhaust "Y" pipe, the CDR is the last item to tackle. I have no idea where in BC you're at but get a hold of SUV7734 or riotwarrior they may have an idea where to get a air filter assy. If nothing else, I have a few sitting on my shelf collecting dust and you can have it if you pay for the ship. Once again, both of those guys have means of getting around Cannuck customs.
btw....
welcome to our little dark corner in the internet

 

[RLDSL]

Any chance you could pickup a rebuilt turbo locally for not to much to pop on?
18 hours in any direction from that general vacinity dragging a 29 footer you may REALLY be wanting it.
I know the guy on ebay who has the turbo rebuild kits and will balance your wheels for free when you buy one of his kits ( I bought one, worked out great ) but with cross border shipping you might get hung up for an extended period of time.
Consideringthat you are going to have to invest in exhaust piping, air intake, etc etc, for a bunch of stuff that is going to be ditched afterward, you may be cash ahead to just grab a rebuilt turbo off the shelf and rig up quick for the trip and that way you aren't buying a bunch of stuff you won't need later

 

[Devilish]

It's usually only a few hun to have a turbo rebuilt and a few days time. If you can find a local place that can do it in-house. You might drive your truck over a cliff from the frustration if you don't

 

[Papabear]

unfortunately as far as finding a turbo goes locally not going to happen and budget wise unfortunately this is my slow time of year and the wife kind of surprised me with this without any warning and i already had the exhaust here collecting dust (just in case) and concerning my old turbo i had great boost boost but the cartidge was leaking really bad i was burning engine oil like 1 gal per fill and some of the boost was going down the pedestal into the crankcase

 

[RLDSL]

unfortunately as far as finding a turbo goes locally not going to happen and budget wise unfortunately this is my slow time of year and the wife kind of surprised me with this without any warning and i already had the exhaust here collecting dust (just in case) and concerning my old turbo i had great boost boost but the cartidge was leaking really bad i was burning engine oil like 1 gal per fill and some of the boost was going down the pedestal into the crankcase

Not sure exactly how tight the budget and time frame is, but this is the guy on ebay with the rebuild kits. $75 for a rebuild kit if you have a t3/t4 and he does ship USPS so you shouldn't have the customs hassles
if you don't see a kit for your turbo, call the guy, it's a regular turbo shop, he's well stocked

 

[MARQ2277]

No. Just put a plug where the line was tapped, and you will be fine. The only question I have; is, where did they drain the oil?? My ATS drains it in the back where the breather is (or was), and they put the breather on the valve cover (which all comes in the turbo kit, valve cover, and all). What turbo set up do you have. Cause if it is an ATS you will have to plug the drain and all.

Marq
_______________________________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[Papabear]

the engine oil went to the turbo via a flared steel line from the top rear of the block behind the intake manifold and then the oil returned to the crankase via the an oil gallery in the pedestal to a hole behid the intake hole in the intake manifold.
what i was worried aobout with negating the turbo oil circuit is that i have been told that some older diesels (make not specified) route the oil from the oil pump to the engine via the turbo so i was worried that if i plugged it off the engine would lose a lubrication.
yes it is an ATS setup with a Garret turbo

 

[riotwarrior]

BD diesel in Abbotsford can help with a rebuild or cartridge if needed....

They where not too expensive when I got a quote some time ago.

http://www.dieselperformance.com/ just think...you'll need the turbo to pull the 5'r home

 

[MARQ2277]

Cool. That's how my ATS is. The oil returns through the pedistill, and my oil line come from back by the oil cooler via a stainless steel braded line.

Marq
__________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[Papabear]

I feel like a moron because I figured out where the oil leak was and I didn't need to switch to naturally aspirated to fix the problem as the fitting for the high pressure line to the turbo at the block was leaking here I though it was the turbo cartridge I did notice though that when I checked the turbo though the impeller was sitting tighter in the bearing than the turbine was in a new PSD turbo I nstalled for a friend my turbo has no equatorial or axial movement at all thinking that after perssure test i will put it back on

 

[MARQ2277]

Hey, at least you got it figured out before you got too much damage or what ever. Sometimes especially on a big engine like ours, it's hard to see everything that is going on. I had to remove my big ass ATS air cleaner set up (why they made that thing so big is beyound me) just to see and get to my injectors. And, even then it was hard to get #4 because of the turbo sits right there. Anyway, don't beat yourself up, you figured it out bro.

marq
____________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[RLDSL]

I feel like a moron because I figured out where the oil leak was and I didn't need to switch to naturally aspirated to fix the problem as the fitting for the high pressure line to the turbo at the block was leaking here I though it was the turbo cartridge I did notice though that when I checked the turbo though the impeller was sitting tighter in the bearing than the turbine was in a new PSD turbo I nstalled for a friend my turbo has no equatorial or axial movement at all thinking that after perssure test i will put it back on

Cool, looks like you're back in business
If you want that oring between the turbo and pedestal to not leak, coat the oring and both sides of flange with racing formula Hylomar or the Aero formula ( basically same thing ) if you have a commercial airport nearby with a parts store, they will carry the stuff. It's the factory sealer for Rolls Royce jet aircraft engines .

 

[Papabear]

actually why it was leaking is the fitting itself was cracked and i don not believe there was any engine dammage because i am **** retentive about fluid levels before the leak i checked once a week after i discovered the leak i checked everyday so i hope i beat the gremlin at his own game. i have diswcovered a diesel leak though but the engine isn't suffering for it i can't see the leak nor do i lose my prime i am thinking it must be a return line the weird thing is though that there is only diesel in the vally no WMO