TECH 101 engine chuff/ valve breaks POST MORTEM

[idi_econoline]

.......... I have an intake chuff. I suspect it is going to look like Al's right bank when I pull my valve covers.

Dang, dgr, didn't know you were having an issue, too, though mine's exhaust chuffing.

The head shop I dealt with is in your (our) area; won't know how they will treat me in this situation until they look at it. Can let you know who (by PM), if you want.

Let's hope neither of us gets a rude surprise when we pull our heads. Did I mention I'm past the 6 month warranty?

 

[dgr]

Please do let me know how it goes. I'm thinking about getting the heads done. I found a guy that has a pair of 6.9s that he said came off an IH replacement motor he blew the bottom end at 10k miles in his tow truck. He never called me back so I'm still looking.

If you need a compression tester, let me know and you can borrow mine.

 

[riotwarrior]

chuffing NOT good...sign of worn guides or valves or both while engine is running, however at the SLOW RPM of a compression test it may not INDICATE seal failure. You may actually get a decent comp test as the slow rpm makes it much easier for the valve train to control the valve at 200 RPM than 650+ RPM.

I am just presenting the obvious that actually isn't obvious. Having spent some time observing and checking stuff out like this it's apparent to me that there needs to be more indepth diagnosis of these issues.

JM2CW

Al

 

[gatorman21218]

If you can do a leakdown test that could be helpfull too. When I pulled my heads, I knew I had a bad valve but visual inspection showed nothing wrong. I set the head on a bench and sprayed pb blaster into the exhaust ports and the bad valve leaked it all out. the rest of the valves held the oil in.

 

[idi_econoline]

Was hoping/planning to have to only pull off one head, but I'm psyching up to pull both, if comp test & visual don't give me a clue.

Many thx for the offer of the tester, dgr, but I did spend the big bucks on a Miteyvac unit. Have still procrastinated....

Time and daylight limited today, but I will at least remove the passenger seat this evening. A gotta-do for us van guys....

 

[riotwarrior]

Damn all I need is the FEMALE connector to the GP adapter and I'll create an adapter to work on my leak down tester! That WOULD BE SWEET and a good investment in diagnostic capability for these engines.

 

[dgr]

Can't you take a glow plug, knock the end off, drill it out and weld it into a standard air adapter? Isn't that what the leak down testers use?

There has to be some guys on here with a bad compression tester laying around. I've seen enough posts talking about breaking cheap ones.

 

[TahoeTom]

1/8 pipe thread is close. GP thread is 10mmX1.00 metric. A copper 1/8 nipple is easy to thread with the metric die, then adapt the other end to an air fitting. I added a gauge. The injection lines are in the way on some of the GPs. For some reason my air leaked out as fast as I put it in.

 

[franklin2]

I wonder what happened in this link? Looks like they were thinking about getting some roller rockers for these engines, which would help this guide wear problem.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1147348-possible-rocker-arms-for-an-idi-2.html

 

[dgr]

It seems to me the price ended up being twice as what was thought and no one wanted to belly up to the bar. They couldn't find an off the shelf casting to use. But my recollection is vague.

 

[dgr]

Here you go
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1150606-where-did-the-rocker-thread-go.html

 

[riotwarrior]

Can't you take a glow plug, knock the end off, drill it out and weld it into a standard air adapter? Isn't that what the leak down testers use?

There has to be some guys on here with a bad compression tester laying around. I've seen enough posts talking about breaking cheap ones.

1/8 pipe thread is close. GP thread is 10mmX1.00 metric. A copper 1/8 nipple is easy to thread with the metric die, then adapt the other end to an air fitting. I added a gauge. The injection lines are in the way on some of the GPs. For some reason my air leaked out as fast as I put it in.

The reason I want to assemble an adapter instead of just a single fitting that fits the GP hole, is that I have a multi fit compression tester with many many adapters to fit quite a few engines, thus I can and will be able to use it on all of them instead of one!

I'll get to Napa or Aklands or some place that can provide me said fitting, it has to exist some place

Al

 

[idi_econoline]

I am just presenting the obvious that actually isn't obvious.

This whole thing wasn't obvious to me, Al. Been poking at this old rig for 4 years, but had little clue until finding this board 1½ years ago. Felt the miss before noticing the chuff. Had NO clue about this until the revived "Chuff" thread a short time ago. Temp gun showed exhaust temps pretty even at manifold. Undid ("removing" in that space beyond me) the valve covers at that time to find both sides free of blowby yuck. Trusting my damage factor will be much less than yours.

Biggest revelation from this thread is the heat factor on the poorly-sealing valve outer edge. For that reason alone, she's parked until I do the comp test. (Guess I have heard the term "burnt valve" somewhere.....)

JM2CW

Your info's worth way more than 2¢ Canadian, Al; it's worth at least 2¢ USA!

Nope, no "run-to-failure" for me, thank you!

 

[TahoeTom]

Al, will any of these work?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-quick-disconnect-hose-couplings/=ojgso7

 

[riotwarrior]

This whole thing wasn't obvious to me, Al. Been poking at this old rig for 4 years, but had little clue until finding this board 1½ years ago. Felt the miss before noticing the chuff. Had NO clue about this until the revived "Chuff" thread a short time ago. Temp gun showed exhaust temps pretty even at manifold. Undid ("removing" in that space beyond me) the valve covers at that time to find both sides free of blowby yuck. Trusting my damage factor will be much less than yours.

Biggest revelation from this thread is the heat factor on the poorly-sealing valve outer edge. For that reason alone, she's parked until I do the comp test. (Guess I have heard the term "burnt valve" somewhere.....)



Your info's worth way more than 2¢ Canadian, Al; it's worth at least 2¢ USA!

Nope, no "run-to-failure" for me, thank you!

Wow...thank you for the compliment!

I'm glad I could shed some light on the function/operation of the exhaust valve and help you make an informed decision as to what you should do. That cooling takes place in a micro second and when the fluttering or harmonics of a valve not fully controled by the guide it cannot truly make full contact and thus this causes the intense heat build up and subsequent hot spots on the valve as I had explained...not going to rehash it. However for those who did know this it's nothing new but to those who don't it's enlightening.

Now next time you watch a race at say Daytona, imagine how many times a second those exhaust valves make contact and the harmonics inherent in them...then..start thinking about say...a nice Yamaha or Suzuki etc street bike at like 14K rpm...then...one step further and F1 engine wow...valves are remarkable items eh? Here we lope along at 3600 RPM

ya my 2 cents Canadain that made me so thanks!

Al, will any of these work?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-quick-disconnect-hose-couplings/=ojgso7

Not sure tester is in shop I'm in living room...will check tomorrow

Thanks for that link, I'll dig into them.