Switching the 6.9 for the 7.3

[osus86diesel]

Alright guys.....


The time has come to swap the old engine for the new one. I have three days to make it happen before Christmas.

The plan is one day to prep the *new* engine, mainly a rear main seal and visual inspection.

I guess I have a few questions before we get this underway........


How much time?

Anything I need to look out for... ? ANY help here would be wonderful. Some of you guys have pulled engines more times than I have changed my oil.... Some expertise has to be here....

That is about all I have, if anyone wants to lend a hand any help would be appreciated *(especially since the boy friend is a cummins gear head.... )

Thanks guys!

 

[F350farmboy]

Well...The 7.3 is visually the same as the 6.9 so you wont have any problems with the mounts.

Im not 100% sure, but most things will swap over between the 2.

The GP system might be the hardest thing to do....I guess, I dont even know if you necessarily need the new GP system for now. Maybe you can swap it over later when you have the time.

Other than that, good luck. Hopefully, smarter people will chime in and tell you actual facts...cause im

 

[k_williams1982]

I swapped a 6.9 in place of a 7.3 in 10 hours (That was pulling the old engine, pulling the "new" engine, and reinstalling the "new" engine. It was my first engine swap, and everything went smooth. The second swap I did was a 7.3 engine. Out and back in was 9 hours. I'm sure it can be done faster with a better facility, but it can be done within a day if you stay focused on it.

 

[Papabear]

the big thing i will suggest to any engine swap ****** is take lots of engine compartment pics preferrably digital and label everything either by colour code or actual labels i usual buy a multi coloured package of electrical tape and a couple of sharpies and a few paint pens before i start than i usually start from rear middle and go clockwise everything from the top than clockwise everything from the bottom than put everything back in reverse order and use proper hoisting equipment (remember limbs don't grow back)

 

[hesutton]

It's not too bad. You will save yourself a big headache if you remove the radiator, grill, bumper, hood, and basically everything infront of the fenders. Trust me.........having an 1000lb IDI swinging 5-6 ft in the air to clear the radiator is not a fun time.

I labeled every thing with masking tape so I wouldn't screw stuff up.....but my down time was over a year...........if you're just doing this all in one day, that might just be overkill.

Take your time and be careful..........don't hurt yourself by getting in too big a hurry.

Also.......I'd change the glowplugs over prior to intalling the 7.3. It'll be easier that way and you know you have to change the bullet 7.3's to the 6.9 type spade glowplugs anyway.

Heath

 

[icanfixall]

If this is your first time just be careful. These motors are heavy at around 1000 lbs. First off you need to remove the starter. There isn't enough room for the starter at the cross member. Pull out both batteries for more room. The fan, fan shroud & radiater need to come out. Place a piece of plywood in front of the ac condenser so the motor does not hit it. If as posted above you are removing the front of the truck grill then you can skip the plywood cause everything is gone. I did my motor in and out 5 times in a day cause the trans didn't fit the crank correctly. It was plenty of work alone too. My hood stays on when pulling or installing the motor. Others remove the hood for more room going up and out over the radiater core support. That is scary up there too. I remove all the motor acessories like the water pump, power steering, vacuum upmp and alternater with all the brackets. Take pictures because there are plenty of wrong ways these brackets will fit but they will not work. So pics there are a blessing down the road. If you have an auto trans there are 4 torque converter nuts and 6 bellhousing bolts that come out. Then its ready to pull. The motor mounts are 4 nuts I think they are 17mm and easy to pull the motor up out of the mount saddles because they are slotted. The oil filter needs to be removed also. For the motor wireing you have one large plug located on the passenger side of the motor near the fender well. Just unplug it and thats about all the electrical there is. You might have a ground on the intake drivers side and one behind the passenger side head so look for those first before pulling the motor. The exhaust might be hard to remove but some PB Blaster or Aerokroil penenatrant helps. Near the back side of the drivers side head is the return line for the fuel going back to the tanks. Its hard to find but just look for it back there. Its kinda hidding from view. Remove the fuel filter line and bracket behind the alternater for more room too. The throttle and cruise control cables are easy to remove and hang out of the way. I usually leave the ac compresser loaded and wire it off to the drivers side so I don't have to recharge it. I use the R12 freon and its expensive plus you need a license to buy it. I have that and all the equiptment to recharge my systems plus around 45 lbs I bought at really good prices over the years on Ebay. You will need the special fan clutch wrenches but they are rentable from several auto parts stores too. If I missed something I hope someone adds to this list. Good luck and post back for any questions that come up while doing this. Plenty of help here just waiting to sound off...

 

[osus86diesel]

Well.... The project is on hold till next week...

Got started and remembered that there is no flywheel for the *new* engine because it came out of a 5 spd and going in to a C6....

Looking for a Flywheel... Going to hold off till New Year's eve to start the tear down.... Too many plans have been made to see family this weekend and Dad wasn't too keen o my truck being down over the holidays....

 

[icanfixall]

Your last post confuses me. The truck you have now has a C6 in it. The new motor came from a truck with a standard trans. If so you have all the flexplates you need in your truck now. W
hatever you are running now will bolt up to the new motor. P.S. The torque on the flexplate to flywheel bolts is 47 lbs and you need to use a sealant on them because they enter the oil pan and oil will leak past the threads. Others here have found that out the hard way. I use copper plus RTV made by permatex.

 

[suv7734]

Your last post confuses me. The truck you have now has a C6 in it. The new motor came from a truck with a standard trans. If so you have all the flexplates you need in your truck now. W
hatever you are running now will bolt up to the new motor. P.S. The torque on the flexplate to flywheel bolts is 47 lbs and you need to use a sealant on them because they enter the oil pan and oil will leak past the threads. Others here have found that out the hard way. I use copper plus RTV made by permatex.

While there are varying opinions about swapping flywheels/flexplates etc. from one engine to another the general consensus is to keep the flywheel/flexplate and balancer with the engine rather than the transmission. If you buy into that theory then the flexplate he has is not 'balanced' to the 7.3 but rather to the 6.9 where the C6 came from. I have not personally done a swap where this was an issue but it makes sense to me.

 

[typ4]

I have heard all the differences and not once has it been an issue with the ones I know about.

 

[icanfixall]

Russ et all... It would make a differance if... We turned up some high rpm's. We don't so change all you want. Some will agree and some will dicagree but thats how things are. Trust those that have "done it" and ask "how did it work". That way we all don't have to do the testing if its anready been done for us. I do a lot of testing and enjoy sharing with others. Even what didn't work because I may be able to help someone thats about to make a mistake... Like removal of the left hand threads on the fan clutch nut. Remember righty tighty & lefty loosey.. Well this big nut is just the oposite of that and many have tried to take it off the wrong direction... Me included...

 

[Agnem]

Jess, I'm with the others. There is no issue. Just swap the flywheel also. Consider pulling the whole front clip instead of all the parts. A total of 8 fastners instead of the myraid of other ones. That, and your cores support no doubt needs at a minium, the rust removed and a new coat of paint.

 

[discbrks]

Make sure that you use a GOOD, HEAVY DUTY engine hoist. I bent one that I borrowed from a buddy... it was from Advance Auto.

 

[Diesile]

From personal experience the one IDI the flywheel HAS to be right for is the FACTORY 7.3 turbo engine. That engine has different internal parts and requires a flywheel that will not balance on the other IDIs as well as the reverse situation.

 

[hesutton]

I have the flywheel from the original 6.9 that came in my truck on my 7.3 IDI. No balance issues. It's been that way for years. Same crank and rods on both. It is not different than just boring your 6.9 from 4.00 to 4.11. Ford used the same DMF on both IDI's and LuK and other SMF conversion kits for the IDI are all the same.........not difference between 6.9 and 7.3 IDI's.

No issue with using the flexplate from the 6.9 behind your 7.3.

And again, don't forget to change your 7.3 glow plugs to the 6.9 spade type (Motorcraft/Beru ZD-1A)

Heath