Stock water seperator repairable?

[dbensen]

Well, the '86's seperator did me in. It won't stop draining. Besides sticking a Bic pen up the hose is there away to rebuild it or is a throw away? I think the last one cost me close to $300.00 and that was back in '99. I have a memory of Rob (69 Oiler) having his rebuilt by they guy selling the truck to him. I cannot imagine it being too complicated but I don't want to start taking things apart if there is no hope. Any thoughts?
Doug
'86 F-250 4x4
'89 E-250 ATS turbo

 

[spencnaz]

It's not worth rebuilding. Many of us, me included have bypassed that pain-in-the-neck.

I've got a Racor unit ready for install, I just have to do it. Just put a hose barb inline between the hoses from the tank to separator and from separator to engine.

 

[towcat]

bypass it and get a 7.3 filter head which incorporates the water sep and feul filter all into one unit.

 

[sle2115]

Or put a Perma Cool unit on it, they are $35 from www.summitracing.com. I have the Perma Cool pre-electric pump and the 7.3 filter head as well. Funny thing is, I have yet to have water in either!

 

[Diesel JD]

Looks like a good system Scott, but how do you adapt it to the fuel system when it uses 1/2" fittings and we have 3/8" ID hose?

 

[sle2115]

Looks like a good system Scott, but how do you adapt it to the fuel system when it uses 1/2" fittings and we have 3/8" ID hose?

You could use bushings, 1/2 to 3/8 pipe and then thread hose barbs or whatever you wanted into them. I used Russell Pro Flex hose to re-do my whole fuel system. They made a fitting to go from 3/8 inch Pro Flex to 1/2 inch pipe, so I didn't have to adapt it. Adapters can be had at about any hardware or good auto parts store.

I have had this filter on for a year, will change element here soon, they are like $15. Works great, adds piece of mind for both water separation and having a filter before the fuel pump.

 

[Freight_Train]

Just dump the thing and getcha a Filter that has the Separator built in.no bottom cap like the 7.3.Just a plug for the filter sensor and a thumb screw to drain it.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Just dump the thing and getcha a Filter that has the Separator built in.no bottom cap like the 7.3.Just a plug for the filter sensor and a thumb screw to drain it.

I was never able to locate a filter to fit the 6.9L filter head that had an integral water seperator (besides the Racor retrofit filters that used the 7.3 style bottom cap).

 

[Freight_Train]

The 6.9 and 7.3L use different filter tops?

 

[towcat]

The 6.9 and 7.3L use different filter tops?

they certainly do.

 

[subway]

i thought you could get away cheep and add a 1/4 size 1/4 turn brass valve with some fittings to the bottom of the unit to stop the leaking? a little bit of a band aid but cheep.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

HERE GOES ANOTHER WATER SEPERATOR DISCUSSION



If the only problem you are having with the seperator is the drain-valve won't shut off, or is sucking air, there is absolutely nothing wrong with adding a ball-valve, or your favorite type of valve, in the rubber hose that drains the seperator.

With this valve shut off, the seperator will function as well as it did before the valve started leaking.

When mine started sucking air, many many years ago, I completely removed it and drove for hundreds of thousands of miles with no water-seperator whatsoever, and never missed it.

For my own part, I would tend to avoid those open-bottomed fuel-filters that require a seperate plastic water drain valve to be screwed into the filter.

Sooner, or later, you will be in a most inconvenient situation, and that plastic bottom is going to break, crack, or vibrate off; and, without a spare, what on earth are you going to do??

I searched around and found a replacement filter for the Cummins that is about twice the size and has a solid bottom with an integral water drain made on the filter.

Maybe a diligent search will yield a similar filter to fit the 6.9.

 

[Freight_Train]

Or worst yet,Get stuck on there and you can't get the dang thing off....

 

[sle2115]

If the only problem you are having with the seperator is the drain-valve won't shut off, or is sucking air, there is absolutely nothing wrong with adding a ball-valve, or your favorite type of valve, in the rubber hose that drains the seperator.

With this valve shut off, the seperator will function as well as it did before the valve started leaking.

Not if it leaks like mine did, around the stem on the dump valve!

Even the 7.3 filter head and original filter didn't use a plastic bottom, it was a metal one. Towcat turned us all on to a filter that would fit it that doesn't use a bottom cap, just has a drain on it and a place for a water sensor.

As you stated, many get by without a water separator at all. I will spend my $35 to put one on, that is a lot less than an IP!

 

[Agnem]

Doug, Knowing your penchant for all thing stock, I'm here to tell you that yes, you can rebuild your water seperator. On the top, there is a nut. If you unscrew that nut, the whole shabang comes out of it. There will be a long shaft, that also has what looks like a vacuum cleaner bag on it, which you will probably have some difficulty fishing through the hole, but if you can get it out, you will find a rubber stopper on the bottom, which by now has hardened and will need to be replaced. Not sure with what, but it is generic enough that you might be able to find something that will work. Then you will need to fabricate a tool that will go through the hole and clean out the bottom of the tank, where sediment has accumulated. I have one taken apart that I can send you pics of if you need em.