still hard to start

[Chevyboy_0]

so its been about a week since i got her running again but she is still hard to start and i want to clarify a few things real quick.

so first thing when i go and start her up i burn the GPs till the light goes out then i crank her over and she usually will fire right off no problem, then she idles for a bit and starts to run very rough till she eventually dies. then it takes FOREVER to get her fired back up again. and once she is fired back up she runs great till i shut it off again.

From what I've read over the past year this is a classic case of Air Intrusion. My question now is how do i go about getting the rest of the air out of the lines? IIRC when i get it running i should go crack the Injector lines one by one and wait till all the bubbles stop and just fuel is coming out, is this a valid statement or not?

Also What other methods would you guys recommend to get the air out, cause i should be able to get her insured and registered soon and i want to start driving her ASAP.

Thanks

 

[plywood]

Once the truck is running it's bleeding the air itself. It's dying cause you have enough air in the system that it gets pumped into the IP before it gets bleed out.

Do you still have the small line between the Fuel Filter Housing and return cap for cylinder #1? That is where the filter is auto bled.

It's when the truck is not running that air is being sucked in, unless the leak is between the tank and the lift pump.

Manual bleeding will help it get started with less cranking the second time after it dies, but ultimately you will have to find where the leak is or it will happen everytime the truck sits.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

It reads like you have a very bad air leak.

Once the engine fires, there should be no reason for you to bleed anything.

A dying electric tank-selector will sometimes exhibit similar symptoms.

Does it do this on any certain tank, or either ??

 

[Chevyboy_0]

@plywood- the line is connected from the filter head to the #1 injector return line

@midnight rider- so far I have been running it on the front tank only because I don't know how much fuel is in the rear tank seeing as the senders just peg the gauge at overfull. I think it might be from the front tank sender Casie itook it ohtto check the shower head to make sure its still there. Imgonna double check there and the return lines as well as the water seperator

 

[THECACKLER]

Start with a set of returm lines & caps w/viton o-rings from type4.

 

[plywood]

I would start with the water separator since those are so well known for causing air intrusion. I don't have one anymore so I don't pay much attention but I think it was Mel who posted recently it is the water drain orifice.

Your shower head is unlikely the culprit unless you have a low fuel level and even then it wouldn't quite cause your symptoms.

What happens is when you have an air leak, the air bubbles rise, since the filter head is connected to the return system, even if you have a leak in your return lines the air bubbles travel to the top of the fuel filter through that line I mentioned from return cap #1 to the filter.. Ironic, since it is also meant to bleed it.

The bubbles won't make it into the depths of the IP since it is in its own dip.

When you start the truck, the truck runs off the fuel in the IP until the fuel pump pumps air from the top of the filter (and likely the air in the fuel line from the lift pump to the filter if your anti-syphon is not good) into the IP and subsequently to the injector lines causing the stall.

Then you crank and crank killing the starter to bleed the IP and injector lines. Until you find the problem, it may be beneficial to your starting system to bleed the filter real quick before starting with the FSS unplugged to prevent the IP from getting air in it, then you won't have the stall. Or, you can bleed the injectors by cracking them after the stall, I think I would choose the filter thing first.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I like a quality ( McMasterCARR ) check-valve or two situated in strategic locations.

They do a lot toward preventing minor little faults in the system from causing major problems.

I like one in the inlet line between the tank selector and lift-pump, closer to the selector so that the standing fuel within the line sort of primes the lift-pump.

I like another in the filter outlet.

It takes a pretty bad leak to defeat a properly check-valved system.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I will also add this :

I believe a host of IDI fueling problems could be averted if that extra return-line were eliminated from the fuel-filter.

99% of diesel engines run trouble-free for years, most being operated by people with the intellect of a duck, and they do not have this system.

It is a good system so long as it works, but I believe it is cause for most starting headaches and air-intrusion problems.

 

[plywood]

I run the Dura-Lift, it claims to have a check valve.

http://facet-purolator.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=category&sectionid=7&id=17&Itemid=37

Assuming it is after the screen filter in the pumps clear bowl it should be protected from tank gunk and therefore failing.

I cleaned my one remaining tank (kind of) and have all new lines and I can see stuff sitting in the bottom of my fuel pump bowl that would definitely bum up a pre-filter check valve.

If I have a problem, I just turn on my key and the electric pump bleeds the system without cranking. Although if I pump enough air into the IP I do like to crack the injectors to help bleed that air out.

 

[plywood]

I will also add this :

I believe a host of IDI fueling problems could be averted if that extra return-line were eliminated from the fuel-filter.

I agree with that except for the situation where there is air suckage before the lift pump while running creating bubbles that could get out that line before hitting the IP. Or in the filter change or filter head air intrusion scenario. Also if you get a little air in the lines from fuel sloshing on a low tank.

But if your air leak is only in the return caps or lines, then yeah for sure, that could be a possible short term fix if not also a good diagnostic tool.

 

[Chevyboy_0]

so for the air in the filter scenario in simple terms couldnt i just go to the truck now before i crank it over or anything and just push the schrader valve in a let the air bubble out?

as for the return lines they are all new and dont leak anything and are all seated nicely

 

[plywood]

If you push the Scrader valve while not cranking it will actually let more air in.

You should get a remote start button and a rag to catch a little diesel and you can do it on your own.

 

[Chevyboy_0]

believe it or not these past few days she has actually been starting really well on her own i just think it might be time for some new GPs though